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I'm putting mine in Tuesday (NOS)brand. I've got a direct port system coming from NX (Tuesday Delivery) so I can spray a 350 hp shot at it.. I'll let you know how it works..
Window switchs are rated for low current only. MSD window switch is rated at 1.5 amps. Window switchs should only be hooked up to very low load devices, such as fuel pressure safety switch. Never hook a window switch directly to solenoids, you will smoke window switch:(
I have a controller from Nitrous Warehous ( http://www.nitrouswarehouse.com/f_r_e_d_.htm ) I was recommended by DRM to use this one because they had good experience using it. I have not installed my nitrous kit yet so I do not have any 'hands on' experience yet.
Mallory specifically labeled it's switch for Nitrous solenoid control, as are many other window switches. If there not suitable, why are the selling them as such? :mad:
Window switch is used to control your N20 solenoid relay. N20 relay acts as an on/off switch for your solenoids. Contol side of relay draws very little current.
Mallory and other window switch manufactures are correct in labeling there window switchs nitrous solenoid control. Window switches are engineered to control your nitrous relay.
Never hook window switch directly to solenoids, you will over load window switch.
Window switch makes circuit by providing a ground. Great place to hook up Window switch is on your fuel pressure safety switch. Window switch will provide ground for fuel pressure safety. Most all N20 relays provide a connection for fuel pressure safety switch. Fuel pressure safety draws very little current.
Re: Progressive N2O controller on C5 (Austrian Vette)
Duh :nonod: didn't think about hooking it to the relay... Instructions indicated to hook to solenoids, or at least it seemed that way. Still want to go with the progressive though. My biggest problem is hookup at the line, and a progressive would certainly do that. Has anybody hooked up the progressive controllers from NOS to another manufactures kit?
I'm using the NOS controller with the TNT kit and the mallory window switch...
No problems, but, it does take some time to dial-in.
Also, talk to Tony & James at TNT. Let them know you are going the progressive route and they'll set you up with another 'noid to use as a window incase the primary fails from the pulsing.
Re: Progressive N2O controller on C5 (MelloYellow)
MellowYellow,
I've got it set at 10% to 100% over 3 secs right now using the 100 shot wet only. I'm not sure how I would describe it... It gets me past the 60' without a smoke show, but, I've still got some dialing in to do...
I don't use ET Strts or Slicks so I'm caught in Drag Radial hell right now. If you remember, I also have an A4 - the converter is a Vig 3200 with a 2.1STR. Its actually stalling up between 3600 & 3800. Without the delay traction is nearly impossible on the juice off the line. Our track prep isn't great either which doesn't help matters much...
I mainly got the controller for the two stage setup I'm working on. 150wet+50dry. I think there is more advantage to these controllers as you up the shot and need to maintain traction early in the 1/4.
I've noticed on my testing with the 100 wet + 50 dry is yielding no more wheelspin at the line than normal with a 0% starting point to 100% over 3 secs.
I had some fuel issues as well not to long ago. If you are borderline with your fuel system, the controllers can also help control the sudden dramatic pressure drop common with the straight N2O dump. With my H&C + the 100 shot TNT kit I was getting some pressure drops that made me more than just a little uncomfortable. The controller got me by for awhile...
I have the Schnitz unit from TNT and it is worth every dollar. My NX system can be controlled from 0-300+RWHP. Easy to program, easy to change paramaters and has been flawless. I have mine installed in the center console so that it can be adjusted easliy. I aslo have the window RPM switch. The combination is flawless. God Bless America and all freedom loving peoples.
Re: Progressive N2O controller on C5 (MelloYellow)
Mellow, With my old converter I left the line just off idle. With the new Vig converter, I load up to 22-2300 for the launch and roll-in.
I'm using the mallory window switches so I don't need to mess with the pills - just turn the dials. The switch on the wet side is currently set from 3200-6100 and the dry side its currently set at 4000-5800. I do not spray through the shifts. When using just the wet side I start off the line at about 10%. On the wet/dry combo that I'm still experimenting with its a 0% start so technically not off the line.
Eric94, The prog controller was mounted in the center console between the seats. With all of the connections I was limited to there or the glove box and for "neatness" purposes. I like the ability to adjust the delay and starting % without leaving my seat so it ended up in the console under the arm rest. The windows switches are small so they fit in the glove box nicely wiith no hassle.
FRPTech, why cant you spray throught the shifts? Dont you get a discount on rebuilds j/k. Do you unload the whole shot of NO2 and then hit it again after the shift?
Would you mind posting pics of your window switch and controller install as that's the route I'd like to go also. I'm also only running nitto drag radials, and with the full shot off the line, I simply smoke the nittos for the first 60' before they finally hook up.
I'd also be VERY interested in your wiring diagram as to how you hooked everything up. I'll be glad to take a full set of digital pics when I do mine to doc for anyone else. Also, exactly which model of window switch and controller are you using?
Ripped427, no discount on rebuilds :(
As for unloading the whole shot, the controller starts the progression and reaches the 100% level. When the window switches hit the top rpm limit it shuts down flow, it reopens when back within range at the 100% level unless the controller is power cycled or hard reset.
oracleguru, I'll try to grab some pics for you early this week. Its not too complicated. The window switches are fairly small and vercro'd inside of the glove box. All wiring comes in through the firewall next to where the existing wiring runs through just under the battery and above the pcm. The controller fits nicely in the center compartment and wiring is run up through the console area. I'll email the wiring diagram at the same time...
I appreciate it. I've got lots of mods, but the N2O is proving the most challenging to harness right now. The progressive controller seems to be the best bet at this point.