Get rid of the run flats!! Not worth the $$ or the crapy ride they give!!
Car is hard to control
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
Car is hard to control
OK, here’s the deal, my C5 is hard to control at times. It’s not like I’m going to wreck or anything, it just goes off and I have to correct for it, one way then the other, kinda fast, but not like a vibration.
It jumps to the right or left under the following conditions:
Ruts on freeways
Under hard acceleration
Under hard braking
It’s like it “darty” so I adjusted the front Toe-in a bit (1/4 turn each side) and that helped, but it still jumps around a little.
I think it just needs an alignment but I don’t know where to take it here in the Portland, OR area (Beaverton).
All stock, with factory run-flats.
Any ideas ?? This isn't normal is it ??
It jumps to the right or left under the following conditions:
Ruts on freeways
Under hard acceleration
Under hard braking
It’s like it “darty” so I adjusted the front Toe-in a bit (1/4 turn each side) and that helped, but it still jumps around a little.
I think it just needs an alignment but I don’t know where to take it here in the Portland, OR area (Beaverton).
All stock, with factory run-flats.
Any ideas ?? This isn't normal is it ??
Last edited by Secret237; Jan 28, 2007 at 02:34 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 0
From: clackamas oregon
run flats will amplify this condition. a switch to good set of non runflats changed this dramaticly on mine. and the ride is much better. and they cost less. and much quieter. i had to tweak my alignment a bunch to keep it from wondering to the left with the runflats. put on the non runcraps and it went to the right instead. sooo.... had to align again and all good now. i lost a bunch of the "bump steer" also
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 3
From: East Hampton CT
I had this problem when my car steering sensor was throwing codes. Looking on the website here and the GM manual led me to believe that the magnasteer will go to full boost (no magnetic dampening) when the codes are thrown...therefore giving you full power steering on the highway rather than minimal boost. I can verify that my steering was VERY sensitive with the C1281 code being thrown. Once I solved that problem (clean the contacts, as seen in the sticky by Bill Curlee) the steering was MUCH better and felt much safer and less jumpy. I don't know if this applies to you but I figured I'd throw it in there.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 14,542
Likes: 5
Here an answer from an old timer:
1. Some of it could be normal, depending on what you were driving before the C5. Tram-lining is normal for this car, depending on how deep the ruts are.
2. Have an alignment done (what is the wear pattern on the tires). It sounds like you have been doing the adjustments yourself -- go to any decent alignment shop, and for now, just go back to factory stock.
3. How many miles? Do you have the F45? You may need new shocks, especially the rears.
4. Check (or have smeone check), the suspension connections, especially the sway-bars -- are the endlinks OK?
Etc., etc. -- don't worry so much about steering sensors and tire brands -- go check the basics first, which in your case, sounds like a proper alignment.
1. Some of it could be normal, depending on what you were driving before the C5. Tram-lining is normal for this car, depending on how deep the ruts are.
2. Have an alignment done (what is the wear pattern on the tires). It sounds like you have been doing the adjustments yourself -- go to any decent alignment shop, and for now, just go back to factory stock.
3. How many miles? Do you have the F45? You may need new shocks, especially the rears.
4. Check (or have smeone check), the suspension connections, especially the sway-bars -- are the endlinks OK?
Etc., etc. -- don't worry so much about steering sensors and tire brands -- go check the basics first, which in your case, sounds like a proper alignment.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
Here an answer from an old timer:
1. Some of it could be normal, depending on what you were driving before the C5. Tram-lining is normal for this car, depending on how deep the ruts are.
2. Have an alignment done (what is the wear pattern on the tires). It sounds like you have been doing the adjustments yourself -- go to any decent alignment shop, and for now, just go back to factory stock.
3. How many miles? Do you have the F45? You may need new shocks, especially the rears.
4. Check (or have smeone check), the suspension connections, especially the sway-bars -- are the endlinks OK?
Etc., etc. -- don't worry so much about steering sensors and tire brands -- go check the basics first, which in your case, sounds like a proper alignment.
1. Some of it could be normal, depending on what you were driving before the C5. Tram-lining is normal for this car, depending on how deep the ruts are.
2. Have an alignment done (what is the wear pattern on the tires). It sounds like you have been doing the adjustments yourself -- go to any decent alignment shop, and for now, just go back to factory stock.
3. How many miles? Do you have the F45? You may need new shocks, especially the rears.
4. Check (or have smeone check), the suspension connections, especially the sway-bars -- are the endlinks OK?
Etc., etc. -- don't worry so much about steering sensors and tire brands -- go check the basics first, which in your case, sounds like a proper alignment.
I have been doing the adjustments myself, just a quarter turn per side to Toe it in a little more, helped.
My car has 40,000 miles on it now , FE1 Base Suspension and F45 Selective Real Time Damping, sway bar and end links looks good, plastic end links, but still ok.
When I did my adjustments, I could tell that someone else had been there making their own adjustments.
I tend to think you are right, I need to have it aligned, I also tend to think it's more than just the tires.
No codes.
I haven't really checked anything in the rear, I guess I should do that.
Thank you all so much for helping, I actually didn't enjoy driving my car last weekend ... gotta get this thing fixed !!
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral Florida
im new to this forum so i hope im doing this right ,flame suit on, i just bought my 01 vette last week and it has f-45 susp. now it definalty climbs allover New England rutty roads but is smoothe on a good highway. how long are the f-45 shocks good for and are they worth replacing with oem.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 14,542
Likes: 5
The F45, eh?
That's why I mentioned it in my #3 above -- I had the front shocks replaced under warranty with only 33,000 miles, because the car was really squirrelly under hard acceleration, especially in turns.
I think you may have a combination of problems -- alignment, and definitely check the shocks as well.
The suspension was designed for the run flats -- don;t worry about the tires -- I use F1s in the summer on Z06 wheels, switch back to runflats in the winter -- the tires aren't the issue, unless they have irregular wear.
That's why I mentioned it in my #3 above -- I had the front shocks replaced under warranty with only 33,000 miles, because the car was really squirrelly under hard acceleration, especially in turns.
I think you may have a combination of problems -- alignment, and definitely check the shocks as well.
The suspension was designed for the run flats -- don;t worry about the tires -- I use F1s in the summer on Z06 wheels, switch back to runflats in the winter -- the tires aren't the issue, unless they have irregular wear.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 14,542
Likes: 5
im new to this forum so i hope im doing this right ,flame suit on, i just bought my 01 vette last week and it has f-45 susp. now it definalty climbs allover New England rutty roads but is smoothe on a good highway. how long are the f-45 shocks good for and are they worth replacing with oem.
$1,800 for the OEM, $2,200 for the F55 upgrade.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I have a 2001 vert with the F-45, rear shock adjuster manfunctioned @ about 28k. This causes a inbalance in the shock rates which provide some strange handling issues. Highway groves made the car seem “darty”, and bump induced side step increased on broken side. Mine were replaced under warrenty, problem fixed.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 14,542
Likes: 5
I have a 2001 vert with the F-45, rear shock adjuster manfunctioned @ about 28k. This causes a inbalance in the shock rates which provide some strange handling issues. Highway groves made the car seem “darty”, and bump induced side step increased on broken side. Mine were replaced under warrenty, problem fixed.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
I don't like all this talk of $1800 shocks .... I think I can get them for $1600, What a deal !!!
No
I am going to try an alignment first, cheaper and it's the thing to do because my Toe-in adjustment did seem to help.
I was under there yesterday and I noticed the rear sway bar did have some give to it, with me moving it by hand, mostly around the plastic sway bar links.
Can anyone give me some part numbers of the metal sway bar links ??
Stock sway bars.
What is a shock adjuster ??
I really need a service manual !!
Thanks
No
I am going to try an alignment first, cheaper and it's the thing to do because my Toe-in adjustment did seem to help.
I was under there yesterday and I noticed the rear sway bar did have some give to it, with me moving it by hand, mostly around the plastic sway bar links.
Can anyone give me some part numbers of the metal sway bar links ??
Stock sway bars.
What is a shock adjuster ??
I really need a service manual !!
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 28,753
Likes: 9
From: San Jose/Bear Valley CA
CA Events Coordinator
its all about allignment (possible broken suspension parts) and a fresh set of good non run flat tires is what you need.
FWIW, I drove down the freeway with my road racing slicks on the car. Perfect allignment and all.. the car swerved like crazy on all the expansion joints and grooves on the highway. Too much traction = damn near wrecking the car!!
VR
FWIW, I drove down the freeway with my road racing slicks on the car. Perfect allignment and all.. the car swerved like crazy on all the expansion joints and grooves on the highway. Too much traction = damn near wrecking the car!!
VR
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 1
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '07
I will have some answers for you by tomorrow. I plan to get an alignment first, then I will be getting some nonruncraps, so I will see the difference after alignment and then after new tires. More to follow.
