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Help - DIC Message This Morning

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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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Default Help - DIC Message This Morning

Need some help. I've got a 2003 Coupe, totally stock, with 28,000 miles on it. It's been the best car I've ever owned and all I;ve had to do is change the oil and oput a new set of tires on it. I get in the car this morning and the following shows on the DIC: Serivce Active handling; Service ABS; Service Active Handling. I drove to the gym and worked out hoping the code would reset, they did'nt. I find it hard to believe each of these systems needs service all at the same time so my question is has anyone had the same issue, what was the problem and fix?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Ron
Need some help. I've got a 2003 Coupe, totally stock, with 28,000 miles on it. It's been the best car I've ever owned and all I;ve had to do is change the oil and oput a new set of tires on it. I get in the car this morning and the following shows on the DIC: Serivce Active handling; Service ABS; Service Active Handling. I drove to the gym and worked out hoping the code would reset, they did'nt. I find it hard to believe each of these systems needs service all at the same time so my question is has anyone had the same issue, what was the problem and fix?
Check your code and post up.

Here's a link.

http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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Thanks. I'll pull them this afternoon and post.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Sonetimes when really cold out the car may throw these codes. After sitting awhile it should reset otherwise disconnect the battery overnight and see if that correts the code. If not it means that it is time for service......one or more sensors may have gone bad.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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this morning it was 12*F outside, and i got in, fired up, warmed up a little, as soon as it moved it showed "active handling warming up" it stayed on for a while, but eventually turned off. 2000 M6 Coupe.

One thing i can tell you, it doesnt like dyno's. when i dyno'd the car, it was flashing all kinds of lights at me becasue the rears were moving and the fronts werent.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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Went out at lunch and ran the codes. This is great as I didn't know this could be done. Anyway, the only code listed is: 28TCS C1214HC. Looking at the list of codes I was able to get, C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open, is the message. What does it mean and what needs to be done?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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It normally means that your wallet is going to be lightened by $350-$1600!

The 1214 DTC indicates that the internal relay inside the EBTCM isn't functioning properly and you need a new EBTCM!

Hopefully you are still under some kind of warranty. If not, some people (like me) have called GM customer assistance and pleaded for help and coverage. Depending on how many miles are on the car, how long you warranty has been expired bla bla bla, some times they will help you.

IF they don't,,,there is a company on E Bay that rebuilds them for about $350 and that comes with a life time warranty. Were all gong to see this one day in our future! trust me on this one!

If you get the dealer to fix this,,,,,your not going to be cash happy!

Luckily for me, I bitched enough and screamed enough that they helped me out.

Bill
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
It normally means that your wallet is going to be lightened by $350-$1600!

The 1214 DTC indicates that the internal relay inside the EBTCM isn't functioning properly and you need a new EBTCM!

Hopefully you are still under some kind of warranty. If not, some people (like me) have called GM customer assistance and pleaded for help and coverage. Depending on how many miles are on the car, how long you warranty has been expired bla bla bla, some times they will help you.

IF they don't,,,there is a company on E Bay that rebuilds them for about $350 and that comes with a life time warranty. Were all gong to see this one day in our future! trust me on this one!

If you get the dealer to fix this,,,,,your not going to be cash happy!

Luckily for me, I bitched enough and screamed enough that they helped me out.

Bill

Here is a link to that Company ATE.

http://www.autoecu.com/
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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Has anyone tried flushing the Brake System before actually replacing this part to see if it has any impact?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Ron
Has anyone tried flushing the Brake System before actually replacing this part to see if it has any impact?
I read somewhere that someone was able to fix it once by bleeding the system using a Tech II to actuate the ABS system during bleeding.

Original cause of problem was due to changing brake pads and getting some of the dirty brake fluid in the system. I think the was the unusual case and not typical, as I have not heard of any other cases.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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The problem is electrical!! Not mechanical. There is a relay inside the EBTCM that is going bad. Here is a picture of the module and some of the disassembled module. There is zero brake fluid transfer between the BPMV and the EBTCM so dirty fluid will not cause this problem. It could have been a coincidence that the problem cleared after the fluid was changed:





The relays are in the lower section of the module surrounded by RTV




BC
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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Before you spend any money, try cleaning the ground connector located in the engine compartment on top of the frame rail between the washer fluid tank and the headlight assembly. My car was throwing 1214 codes until I cleaned it. It just might work for you. By the way there are another 12 grounds you may want to clean as well. I hope it works for you.
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Check Fuse Numbers 5 & 52. If cleaning the ground connector doesn't work check the wiring going to the EBCM and the connector on the EBCM to see if there is any corrosion on the pins. These can be cheap fixes compared to replacing the EBCM and still having a problem.

Bill
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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Thanks everyone for the responses. I'm going to try cleaning the electrical contacts and the grounds on the car this weekend before doing anything else. I'll let you guys know what happens.
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The problem is electrical!! Not mechanical. There is a relay inside the EBTCM that is going bad. Here is a picture of the module and some of the disassembled module. There is zero brake fluid transfer between the BPMV and the EBTCM so dirty fluid will not cause this problem. It could have been a coincidence that the problem cleared after the fluid was changed:





The relays are in the lower section of the module surrounded by RTV






BC

Bill,
Those relays don’t look as though they would be too hard to change.
Is there something special about them?
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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my car was showing the same thing last nite, -5f was the temp outside, active handling warming up, I have a 60day 2500 mile warranty from the dealer sounds like I better get it checked out.
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by orangejuice
my car was showing the same thing last nite, -5f was the temp outside, active handling warming up, I have a 60day 2500 mile warranty from the dealer sounds like I better get it checked out.
Active Handling Warming Up is NOT an issue. It is NORMAL! If you take that to the dealer he will not be able to do anything to fix that!

Unless your seeing a failure or malfunction and they can DUPLICATE the problem while the car is there, you are wasting your time.



cliff_ford

The module is siliconed inside the housing. I had a hell of a time getting it out. Yea, if you could figure out which one is the correct relay, it wouldnt be all that difficult. There is a surface mounted micro computer under that board covered in that STICKEY NASTY goop!!! Your NOT going to be able to fix that one if theres sonething wrong there. Break her down and give it hell!!

BC
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 08:47 PM
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mine isn't showing any codes so it must be alright.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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Bill: I appreciate your help. I froze my tush off last night and found no corrosion on any of my grounds. What are the steps to removing the EBCTM? Is there an electrical connection that needs to be cleaned first to see if this cures the problem? Any help is appreciated.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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You should check to ensure the eletrical connectors are engaged correctly an locked. Only 6 screws to remove the unit.
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