I hvae a loud ac compressor and it's about time to get changed. bought a used compressor from forum member and looking for all of your input on the simplest and safest way of replacing this thing (without airtools).

Any feedback you can provide would be appreciated.

 

Pull the waterpump and front right wheel... pretty straight-forward. Do you need more details?

 

Cool, that's a start... is there a standard procedure on purging the R134a gas?

 

Legally, you are supposed to have it "recovered". Do you have gauges? Do you know about flushing the system and replacing the orifice valve/tube?

 

No, I know nothing about it.

 

Bud,,,,it not as simple as it looks to do it correctly!

To do it the right way, your going to need to replace the all the O rings for the things that you disassemble, the receiver dryer, vacuum out the system with a vacuum pump and add the CORRECT amount of R-134 and any oil that is lost or missing.

Is the compressor that your installing still full of oil?? I bet not! Your going to need the correct oil and add the right amount to the replacement parts ie compressor, receiver dryer etc ect...

Yea, it can be done without doing all of that BUT, that is the correct way to do it. Your best bet is to get a hold of a set of service manuals. EVERYTHING that you need to know is in there!!!

I have seen people break open AC systems, replace a part and immediately close the system back up and everything has worked.

Your installing a compressor that has been out of the system for who knows how long. It will have moisture in it. AC Systems do not get along well with moisture in the freon. It makes the system less efficient and also forms an acid which eats up the aluminum parts (ie evaporator/condenser) from the inside out causing pin hole leaks. Thats what the receiver dryer does. It removes any moisture from the system via a desiccant bag. If you saturate that bag, it cant do its job.

It also stores oil in the system.

Hate to be doom and gloom but, I just want you to know what your up against (if you want to do it right! )

Are you sure that your compressor is bad???
It could be a bad belt tensioner bearing, or a bad clutch bearing. The bad clutch bearing can be changed without breaking the freon barrier! The tensioner replace takes 20 min.

Check all that stuff out!

BC

 

Sounds to me as if your compressor may be putting crap in your system. I would flush it for sure. You can buy flush kits, but I believe you will need an air compressor to blow it all out. Check the orifice tube and see if it has crud on it, it's in the line that has a joint in a fairly straight part of the line. If the screen is clogged or torn, you know have problems. I'm all for doing it yourself, but you need to do it right or problems are sure to arise. You will need gauges to fill the system, do you have those? You will also need a vacuum pump on the system for about 45 minutes. I'd go ahead and replace all the o-rings and gaskets.

You might consider having someone with all the equipment do it, but they won't guaranty work done with used parts, you should also replace the accumulator. I know I sound like I'm all over the place trying to tell you about this. If you still want to try to tackle this yourself, I'll write something up for you tonight.

 

ok you guys talked me out of it

Bill, you made some good points in regards to the bearings so I'll check that out first. If it turns out to be something else I'll pay the pros to do it. The word "acid" convinced me. LMAO

 

Don't quit so easily! I wasn't trying to discourage you but more like enlighten you. As long as you go into it informed and know what need to be done, your covered. Hell,,,if it is a compressor, you can do 90% of the work and let the pros vacuum it and fill it!

I just hate to see people do stuff that will make them do more rework.

BC

 

How to build an a/c suction machine for free (almost).

1. Locate a piece of 1/2" plywood.
2. Locate a good old a/c compressor from any car, old Ford, GM, Chrysler, VW, etc. For the past 20 years, I have stored a brand new Ford aluminum model, and a long GM model.
3. Go to any family-owned appliance store and ask manager if he has any old washing machine motors. (Many small stores have 3 or 4 out back in their junk piles. You might have to remove one from an old washer, but you simply need a few small sockets.)
4. Bolt the compressor and the washer motor to the plywood, securely.
5. Buy a fan belt that will run from the washer motor to the compressor. You will also need hoses from a/c compressor to your new invention. Harbor Freight???
6. REMEMBER TO RUN THE COMPRESSOR BACKWARDS, so that it is now a suction machine rather than a compressor.
7. VOILA!!! You now have a machine that you can use to suck down any automotive a/c system.
8. Lend this thing to your friends in return for some assistance on rebuilding your a/c system.

Now, doesn't that suck???

Ed

 

Using one from the bottom of an old fridge may be an easier and neater tool, though.

 

Just a thought, but check the A/C belt, tensioner, and idler. As the belts wear, they make noise. The tensioner and idler do, too. My son's car had a lot of noise, and this was what it turned out to be - pulled the tensioner, and it's pulley was loose and wobbled a bit.

Check on the cost of new. I did one on my old WS6 T/A last summer, and the compressor with a clutch was about $220 through a friend with a shop. Receiver/dryer and orifice tube should be replaced, as Bill mentioned, and they added enough to get me to about $300 in parts. To convert from R-12 to R-134. The friend with the shop reclaimed the R-12 and handed me a stack of O-rings.

But do have the thing suctioned out. On the older ones, when in doubt, I've added an inline filter to catch the crud the failed compressor may have dropped in the system.

Still, start with the cheap stuff, and look at your belts.

 

All C5 AC systems come from the factory with R-134!

BC

 

Any new car from '95 on came with 134a.
Our cars (vettes) have accumulators and orifice tube, not a receiver dryers or expansion valve (they do the same thing).
You dont need to replace the accumulator. You should at least inspect and clean the orifice tube. If it has debris in it, then you should flush the system. Replace all orings on any part you open up. You must evacuate the system with a vacuum pump for 30 min or more to get out (boil) any moisture from the system, and then check for leak back on the gauge. This way you will get the best performance from your ac and not form any corrosive acids.

Also, if you take it apart, you may as well get a VOV (variable orifice valve). It will make your ac much colder at Idle. you can read about them here http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/...rs/choice.html
They are pretty cheap.
Or here...scroll down. http://www.sherco-auto.com/ac.htm

 

Do you know which is the correct variable orifice valve (p/n?) for the C5?

 

Sherco Automotive Supply
5431 NW 15 St #9 Margate, FL 33063
800-548-6229(US) 954-975-0012
Fax 954-975-0052

Try calling them. They are the second link. When you find out, post it.

 

Do you know which is the correct variable orifice valve (p/n?) for the C5?

 

Sorry for the double reply. I'll give them a call. I actually used to live in Margate, years ago.

 

The other thing you can do is replace the parts and get a shop to evacuate the system and recharge it. I have done that several times over the years.

Bill

 

Alright guys, I think I'm going to jump in and tackle this myself. I want to learn more about fixing the C5 so why not

Bill, do I get the AC shop to evacuate the system prior to me breaking it open? And then return after I'm done w/ the install so that they can refill? Or do I evacuate and refill at the same time (after I'm done with the install).