2000 c5 problems!!!!!! Need Help Plzzzzz
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 9,915
Likes: 1,870
From: Hot Springs AR
The other thing that might be causing the codes you've seen and the electrical insanity is battery acid leaking down into the wiring harness that GM conveniently
put right under the battery box. You could take some baking soda and water and wipe down the battery sides: if you see it foaming up (neutralizing acid), you might have a leak.This kind of repair is always a hassle, but never something to shoot the car over.
I'd get a 2nd opinion on the noise in the rear; surely someone on the CF is fairly close to where you live.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 0
From: rochester n y
Take your car to Steve Spencer @ Bryner Chevrolet in jenkintown PA.
Should not be too far...
He has been the Corvette Tech there for OVER 20 yrs & is a C5 specialist.
Trust me on this..
Call Steve FISHER to make an appt w/ Steve Spencer.
215-886-3140
Trust me on this bro..
Should not be too far...
He has been the Corvette Tech there for OVER 20 yrs & is a C5 specialist.
Trust me on this..
Call Steve FISHER to make an appt w/ Steve Spencer.
215-886-3140
Trust me on this bro..
Save the Wave. Get it fixed so you can enjoy it.>George
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Ever hear the saying "you can lead the horse to water, can't make him drink" My forum brothers are giving you the BEST advice. Drive the Corvette to this dealer and have your problems solved. Why would you want to make the rounds of the local Chevrolet Dealers who can't figure out how to fix Cobalt let alone a Vette ?Good Luck. C5's are the best ! Save the Wave. Get it fixed so you can enjoy it.>George
Save the Wave. Get it fixed so you can enjoy it.>George
100 miles is not far to get to someone whom you can trust to fix your car. If you are a new owner, you probably have yet to experience the "dealership hell" that many go through. Just because they claim to have GM certified personnel is no reason to believe your car is in good hands. The advice from those in the know on this forum is priceless. I only wish I was within 100 miles of someone I could trust instead of these local yokals who do not have a clue!Good luck man...I feel your pain. Purchasing your first Vette should be one of the happiest times in your life. But, persistent problems without a dealership/repair shop capable of genuinely helping you is the PITS!
LT
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Felton De.
Thanks, everyone for all there input and advice! I'll keep you posted as soon as I find out what's going on. The reason I took this to a local dealer was because that's what the dealer from whom I bought it said to do. And yes it was eBay purchase. Only 49K miles. It has a clean Carfax for what that's worth. If I get know resolve I'll most def. take a trip to Jenkinstown Pa.
Thanks again!!!
Thanks again!!!
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 381
Likes: 3
I just purchased a 2000 and boy am I regretting it at the moment. I had this car delivered to me and bought it sight unseen (I know). Anyway, All looks good. Then the first drive.... WhenI first start it up i get the old "Service Engine Soon" light on. I hit the reset and it goes off. Next I get it out on the highway and a loud whining or loud I guess it could be describe as a binding sound from the rear end. Ok. Next thing while I'm driving it I get a "Reduced power" light, The gauges stop working,the security light and gauges light comes on along with the traction control display on the dash comes on, The radio stops. WOW!!!
I saying what the h e double L is going on???. Ok I get it back home and now the frigging passenger window will not work nor the passenger door lock. Not to mention a rough idle or miss when the car is in park and running. When you put it into drive it seems ok. but when it idles it misses like all heck. It does run good and smooth, Plenty of power, shifts great, goes straight brakes good etc etc.. I was told that the tap or light knock might because it does not have Mobil 1 oil???? I bought it from a Lexus dealer in Ohio( I live in Delaware.) I called and of course they said it was find when they had it. And wasn't sure what but doubt they put Mobil 1 in for oil. At the present time the electrical problem has not happen in 3 days. I read the thread about the grounding problem and that sounds like maybe the culprit. It was raining the day I took delivery and the car was wet the day I had the electrical problems.
I heard about running codes and I got a b1001 and b0090.
ANy help would be MUCH appreciated!!!!!
I saying what the h e double L is going on???. Ok I get it back home and now the frigging passenger window will not work nor the passenger door lock. Not to mention a rough idle or miss when the car is in park and running. When you put it into drive it seems ok. but when it idles it misses like all heck. It does run good and smooth, Plenty of power, shifts great, goes straight brakes good etc etc.. I was told that the tap or light knock might because it does not have Mobil 1 oil???? I bought it from a Lexus dealer in Ohio( I live in Delaware.) I called and of course they said it was find when they had it. And wasn't sure what but doubt they put Mobil 1 in for oil. At the present time the electrical problem has not happen in 3 days. I read the thread about the grounding problem and that sounds like maybe the culprit. It was raining the day I took delivery and the car was wet the day I had the electrical problems.
I heard about running codes and I got a b1001 and b0090.
ANy help would be MUCH appreciated!!!!!
Wow, for a minute I thought this was an old post from me !
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Wow!!!!!!!!!!! This is VERY SOUND ADVICE!
YO-EL's been on here for a LONG time and is a respected forum member. There are everyday run of the mill C5 Techs and then there are the C5 Tech GODs. GOD type technicians are far and few between! If your getting inside advice that you have a C5 Tech GOD in your area (100 miles is not all that far for sound technical service) and your having this many issues with a car that you have purchased SIGHT UNSEEN,, dude, you need a C5 Tech GOD in a BAD WAY!You have a lot of complicated issues with your car and it requires specific GM test equipment to properly diagnosis and repair some of it.
If you take your car to a local dealership, there most likely going to nickel & dime you to death on part after part, return after return until your sick of the car! Yep, a LOT of the run of the mill C5 technicians easter egg parts just to see if it fixes the problem. Guess what? Even if it doesn't, you pay for them.
Take the car to the recommended C5 tech, let him fix it right the first time and have them contact your originating sales center to see if you can get some kind of assistance on the repairs that they miss represented or had NO CLUE on.
Thats my 2 cents but its YOUR car and YOUR money and you need to be comfortable with what you want to do.
Bill Curlee
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Felton De.
Thanks again everyone I will take in consideration Yo-Els advice once I hear from the Dealer that has it now. I was doing as what the selling dealer told me to do. You never know maybe I'll get lucky with them
I really can't drive it that far( Because I don't want to do anymore harm. And I don't have Flatbed laying around. Also, to be honest i don't have the money since I've buried myself in this.
I'll keep you all posted. Should hear something today? (Fingerscrossed)
Thanks all!!!
I really can't drive it that far( Because I don't want to do anymore harm. And I don't have Flatbed laying around. Also, to be honest i don't have the money since I've buried myself in this.I'll keep you all posted. Should hear something today? (Fingerscrossed)
Thanks all!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,503
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma City OK
Just my 2 cents... The sound from the rear sounds like a sound from the rear diff. I am just getting over this issue myself. Maybe invest in a better geared rear diff and have more fun... Also have you looked into a GMPP warranty? I know you can purchase them from any Chevy dealer... The year may be an issue but I would ask someone in the finance... This could save you a lot of time and hasle...
Good Luck
Good Luck
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Felton De.
Just a update
The seller is paying for a complete rear end from GM. Cost to repair $3200. Still waiting on electrical. They sais I had mutiple codes in every module. Only one code came back ( a warning light for pass. air bag)
The seller is paying for a complete rear end from GM. Cost to repair $3200. Still waiting on electrical. They sais I had mutiple codes in every module. Only one code came back ( a warning light for pass. air bag)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,466
Likes: 51
St. Jude Donor '17
Thanks Mike
Yeah it looks like I've got my work cut out for me. The car runs great no misses or anything when driving. It just rough when it idles. It will run smooth then miss,smooth then miss again. When it's in drive it's not bad. Just idle. The electrical thing has gone away but I think that you might be right I will check also.
The main thing is the noise in rear. It sounds different than a tire noise. Almost like something is binding. Tire noise's tend to vary when your on concrete then switch to asphalt the pitch changes..This stays the same.
Thanks for your reply
Yeah it looks like I've got my work cut out for me. The car runs great no misses or anything when driving. It just rough when it idles. It will run smooth then miss,smooth then miss again. When it's in drive it's not bad. Just idle. The electrical thing has gone away but I think that you might be right I will check also.
The main thing is the noise in rear. It sounds different than a tire noise. Almost like something is binding. Tire noise's tend to vary when your on concrete then switch to asphalt the pitch changes..This stays the same.
Thanks for your reply
It is a honeycomb like screen in the maf housing that directs airflow to the wire that reads temp. If that is gone you will have an idle that is hunting.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,503
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma City OK
If my memory serves me right ... you can take the 3200 for the rear end and buy a better geared diff for less money, rather than going stock.
