Fob
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 452
Likes: 2
From: Lynnfield MA
Voltage by itself doesn't tell you anything. The battery needs
to be tested under load to determine if it is any good. Most
of the inexpensive battery testers out there (read: Radio Shack)
have various size resistors in them and that's how you test if
the battery is any good.
Anyway, you could just replace the battery and see if that
solves the problem.
to be tested under load to determine if it is any good. Most
of the inexpensive battery testers out there (read: Radio Shack)
have various size resistors in them and that's how you test if
the battery is any good.
Anyway, you could just replace the battery and see if that
solves the problem.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 452
Likes: 2
From: Lynnfield MA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
fob
2 of mine did the same. Some people "fixed" theirs by applying more pressure on the battery contacts. Not mine. Go to fleebay for a replacement. Make sure it is guaranteed to WORK. 97-00 are one frequency and 2001 and up another. Good hunting
BIGHANK
BIGHANK
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If your 12 VDC battery is low on charge, there will be enough current to allow the starter to crank the engine just fine BUT,,,if you read the battery with a VOLT meter, you will see that it can (just for a millisecond or two) drop down as low as 8 VDC. Battery current is inversely proportional to battery voltage. As the current hungry starter zaps 300 amps from the battery, battery voltage will dip as low as the reserve capacity will allow it to. If your low on charge, it will be unsat.
Pull up the DTC's and see if you see a **** ton of U series DTC's in history. That indicates (most of the time ) that module saw voltages less than the module "LOW VOLTAGE" cut off and it went off line during that time. Once the voltage returns to normal, that code goes to History.
You either need to charge the battery, have it tested to see if it can maintain above 11 VDC under high current load or if its older than 4 years old, just go to Walmart and puck up a new one for $60.
If your not up to speed on reading DTC's here is a website for you.
This is the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) web site!!!
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html
www.corvettedoctor.com
Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\
Here is another very good site:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Write down all the ones that pop up and then clear them. Drive the car until the problems happen again and recheck the DTC's
Post the DTC's that you find
Bill Curlee
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If your 12 VDC battery is low on charge, there will be enough current to allow the starter to crank the engine just fine BUT,,,if you read the battery with a VOLT meter, you will see that it can (just for a millisecond or two) drop down as low as 8 VDC. Battery current is inversely proportional to battery voltage. As the current hungry starter zaps 300 amps from the battery, battery voltage will dip as low as the reserve capacity will allow it to. If your low on charge, it will be unsat.
Pull up the DTC's and see if you see a **** ton of U series DTC's in history. That indicates (most of the time ) that module saw voltages less than the module "LOW VOLTAGE" cut off and it went off line during that time. Once the voltage returns to normal, that code goes to History.
You either need to charge the battery, have it tested to see if it can maintain above 11 VDC under high current load or if its older than 4 years old, just go to Walmart and puck up a new one for $60.
If your not up to speed on reading DTC's here is a website for you.
This is the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) web site!!!
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html
www.corvettedoctor.com
Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\
Here is another very good site:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Write down all the ones that pop up and then clear them. Drive the car until the problems happen again and recheck the DTC's
Post the DTC's that you find
Bill Curlee
