Fairly sure it's the way to go after reading the reviews. I love K&N but don't want to cut into any stock parts. The only thing stopping me from buying one right now are needed answers to these 2 questions:
1. Anyone after purchasing feel weird about it being a warm air intake?
2. Does the intake rub the under hood insulation?

Thanks,

 

I have the stinger. I dont think it rubs on the hood. Performance wise its about the same as the zip tie mod I had before installing the stinger.It is much better than just the stock intake though. Cold air would be the best but the stinger is ok. Cut out the foglight covers and install z06 screens for a few extra ponies.

 

I picked up a used one in the parts section and I'm really happy with it. If you can find one with a good filter i'd buy used for <1/2 price. Don't expect big gains (+/-10hp) but the throttle response and induction sound are great. If seated properly the bridge barely rubs the hood liner, no problem.

 

Thanks all. I'm just pissed there isn't a true CAI out there for the C5 other than the Vararam which I'm having a hard time finding a shop that has good things to say about it.

The car before my C5 was an Eclipse that had a K&N true CAI and I loved it.

 

Call L.A.P.D and talk to Al about the Vararam. He has had great results with it.

 

Sounds good, will call them tomorrow.

 

Vararam: Brings cold air in through the fog light panel area to a panel-type filter. Owners have had good luck with system on the dragstrip, but plan on spending hours to install and a bit more to get everything lined up well. Downside: Eliminates engine bay-cooling air that would've come in from the fog light panels (Z06 or coupe/vert with opened-up panels), so the engine bay may end up being toastier, especially if you add headers later. $300-$400 (NOT smog legal in CA)

Vortech Rammer: Brings cold air up from in front of the radiator and into an enclosed box. Its filter is quite a bit smaller than the Halltech Warhead or Blackwing unit. $250 (NOT smog legal in CA)

Callaway Honker intake system: This one relocates the MAF so that it is just in front of the throttlebody. It directs cold air from underneath and costs about $500. I believe this unit is 50 states legal (smogwise) for non=Z06 C5s. Excellent design and quality. If cost is no object, this bad boy should be at the top of your list.

K&N FIPK: This is more of a semi-cold air system, as the cold air intake opening is more of a slit. Its filter endcaps are carbon fiber. However, it is configured similarly to the Halltech Stinger-R and is 50-states legal. $350

Reverse Zip-tie: Allows cold air to be drawn in from underneath, but the bare filter is exposed to potential damage from larger objects. The advantage here is that you may pass smog if the tech doesn't know "which way is up".

Warm air systems: (Easy installation)

Halltech Stinger-R: Not only contains the massive Warhead filter, but also includes a larger-than-stock airbridge and smooth throttlebody coupler. For $350.00 or less, this system represents one of the best bangs for the buck. Fortunately, if you don't like Z06 screens in front of cored-out fog light panels, (for about $40) you can add cold air induction. See my procedure at http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/corvette_c5_corner.htm
This is what I did and a swap to smog-legal status is very easy to do, as I have kept my Z06 intake box.

Halltech Stinger SSM: This intake system features an even larger filter than that of the Stinger-R, TRAP, and Blackwing. < $400

Blackwing: Includes just a large filter, but an excellent one at that. Its cost is close to that of the Stinger. Like the Stinger, it is not smog-legal in CA, but can easily be swapped.

Volant Twin Cone: This system gives you more open filter surface area than any stock box does and is well suited to an engine bay that gets cold air in from the fog light panels, as the filters are more or less in the air flow path. $265

2002+ Z06 airbox cover: A larger opening allows more air to be drawn in through the filter. Expect up to a 5 RWHP gain from this simple swap. $50

Zip-tie: An easy and inexpensive mod (eliminates the OEM box’s upper lid), but its sealing ability is questionable at best.

How good are they? My experience has shown that most will bump up RWHP by at least 10. The advantage of having cold air is that power will not be "dialed down" under slow moving/stop&go conditions.
You could easily lose 10 HP with a warm air system after engine bay temps rise during slow-moving conditions. Cold air prevents this from happening.

 

Dave don't worry I've read and saved that post in my favorites. It's what prompted me to actually drive out to a couple shops to look at the systems.

 

I looked at the Honker but REALLY don't want to have to cut up any OEM pieces. Hence, not getting the K&N despite my loyalty to the brand. From what OCC told me today, with the Stinger I don't have to cut anything.

 

Jason,

I suspect that the small opening in say, a Z06 airbox lid, allows inrushing air to maintain a velocity that cools the "charge" before it enters the intake. Once you change (increase) the opening area exponentially, the air temperature becomes higher and the flow, smaller. This is why I am convinced that giant intake filters need to be supplied with cold, outside air. Otherwise, you lose all that you gained in HP, after experiencing slow-moving and/or stop&go driving. If you absolutely will NOT cut anything, a Z06 airbox or just the lid may be the way to go if you regularly see heavy traffic. Now if you drive to work at 6 AM and the roads are empty, the warm air systems will give you a nice "boost".

Dave

 

Take a look at the Hurricane!! It's a Cold air system that requires no cutting of stock parts, it includes a new radiator shroud that has built in scoops, feeding the filter.

This system is often overlooked and for the life of me I don't know why...

 

If your in "stop and go" traffic, its not going to make a difference which itake your using, whether it be cold or warm, your not going to be able to mash the pedal anyway.

Either cold or warm will do you right on the open road. My $0.02

 

Bah, +/- 10hp is a silly thing to worry about anyways... daily driving especially...

Heck, in stop & go taffic in the heat, you're gonna have your AC on... Whoops! There goes some more HP!!

Go w/ the Intake you can afford, and you think looks good and call it done.


Dan

 

The a/c is programmed to turn off above 4xxx rpm, and 10hp is something to strive for... every little bit counts.

 

I have reams of data that proves otherwise. After stop&go driving a non-CAI aftermarket intake system in my C5 was drawing in 140+ degrees F air (10 HP loss). After heading out to the highway at speeds of up to 80 MPH, the intake air temps never dropped below 110F, even after 10 minutes on the open road.

With my CAI mod in-place, temps during stop and go driving never exceeded 110 and very quickly plummeted to 80 degrees after driving on the open road for 5 minutes or less.

That, folks, is a huge difference. CAI works, plain and simple!

 

Guys, all I know is after modding and replacing my stock air box it made a difference you could feel. No ifs ,ands, or buts about it.

 

I have recently added aftermarket fog light panels that allow air to pass through. I was able to install these while installing a new front bumper.

Here is the question:

I installed the new fog light panels to increase cold air intake. My intent is to eventually install a HAlltech Stinger system. Will the panels be useful with the halltech or would you still recommend the cold air induction modification

Recently purchased a 2000 C5 Coupe. New to this forum

Appreciate the assistance

 

i have the cold air fog light assemblies, don't care if they help or not, i just like them

 

Why worry about it? The radiator shroud is only about $50 to replace if you want to go back, and you get the best intake out there...

 

FLIP your stock induction, true cold air, no more exposure to the elements than a Honker, OEM parts except for the filter, looks good, performs great, and best of all, inexpensive.