My car is for street and road race.

I cannot pass Illinois emissions, and my plate is suspended until I can (Well I can still road race, but I want to drive on street without worrying about getting pulled over, too...).

Car has cam, headers, tune. With only 2 O2 sensors, I was getting 2 "not readys" - O2 system and EVAP system. Was not getting any codes. Did driving cycles. Just could not pass.

Now added O2 sims to lines left after header install, had tuner turn rear O2s back on.

Now getting 4 "not readys" :o The original 2 above, plus catalyst and secondary air system. Still no codes. I bought a cheap scan tool which tells you if the system monitors are ready or not, so I don't have to keep going back to the emissions place until I figure this out.

My tuner does not know what to do next.

My theory at this point is that somehow, the self diagnostics are not running to get to a ready state, thus no codes, but the not readys. But not sure why the thing won't run these, how to get it to run them, or if that is the real problem.

Any ideas ?

I'm fit to be tied at this point....

 

I don't know how to get rid of codes, but if you track down Ron Adee he can tell you how to get plates and avoid emissions testing. He got some sort of exemption for his Viper.

Erik

 

Ask this in the tuner section. My tuner shut of the rears but I still the the "complete" on the test. Are you sure the tuner hasn't been the source of this issue? How far have you driven and still not gotten the "complete" message? I know some of mine take a while before they switch.

 

Is he a midwest council guy, or do you know how I might find his contact info otherwise?

 

I will ask it in that section. I trust my tuner, he is trying very hard to fix this with me. Right now, I am just going to try to drive the car everyday and monitor the monitors, and see if they reset.

 

Have you tried the GM driving cycle procedure?? It's suppose to speed up the emissions ready sequence. If not, give this a try:

GM OBDII Driving Cycle Instructions:


• Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start, the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.


• Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.


• Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.


• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.


• Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.


• Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.


• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.


• Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

BC

 

PM sent

 

Thanks, I did do the official cycle. I will indeed do it more times and see what happens...