When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was thinking there would be a complete kit somewhere that included whatever fittings needed,or whatnot ,to hold the valves in place with air during the process .
I can't seem to find one in my searches,I may not be looking for it under the right name I guess
Anyone have any insight for me?
I think I want to use the compressed air method to do the change
yeah hard to find answer..i know it took me awhile. get the crane cam valve tool. real sweet and saves you hours of time and get a hi pressure air hose to put in your spark plug hole to keep valve from falling out.
this is my next project also! G/L
Vinci High Performance sells both. I like the Crane tool, a very controlled way of changing out springs and seals
Last edited by rustyguns; Apr 17, 2007 at 10:26 PM.
I bought mine from Joe Vinci as well (Crane tool) and it is the best one out there. It fits perfect and was designed for the f-body where you can't see the back springs on the motor. I didn't use the air method for holding up the valves (had a problem with this once) and instead used the TCD method. However, I also have a borescope so finding TDC on each cylinder was easy for me. The old rope trick works as well and I have used this many times, just not on the LS1.
Bottom line, get the tool from Vinci, it is the best one out there and the few bucks you save on a cheaper one is not worth it. One other note, most performance springs have a surface treatment, the spring tools that grab the spring coils will scratch them and shorten spring life, avoid them.
I also bought the Crane tool and really like the way it works.
The only problem I had with the tool was it would not fit the AFR heads I bought. The stud bosses on the AFR heads were too large to fit in the hole milled in the tool. I simply mounted the tool in a mill and increased the size of the hole in the tool and it solved the problem. New tools may have this already done.
One more question about use of that tool,(which I am sure will be apparant when I get to it),But it looks as though you have to remove the rocker arm studs to use this tool?Is that so?
It seems they give you bolts,and that has to thread somewhere....
Obviously this will be my first time doing this,but I have no reservations about doing so,I just gotta get to it
Any tips you guys could offer up will be appreciated
Thanks to everyone who replied...........This is why this forum is so GREAT!!!!
The LS1 does not use rocker studs, just a bolt. You will need to remove the rockers and the mount rail before you start. One tip I can give is to place a socket over the valve and give each a good tap with a hammer before using the crane tool. When I didn't do this the retainers didn't want to break loose and I would depressurize the cylinder every time.
The LS1 does not use rocker studs, just a bolt. You will need to remove the rockers and the mount rail before you start. One tip I can give is to place a socket over the valve and give each a good tap with a hammer before using the crane tool. When I didn't do this the retainers didn't want to break loose and I would depressurize the cylinder every time.
Like I said,I haven't done it before
Now I feel dumb
Hey, Thanks for that tip,that makes sense to me
Thought I read something about tapping the valves AFTER the install too,to seat the locks? I will learn as I go