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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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Default Cam install underway but...

I've already ran into an issue. Was unbolting the power steering lines, the first one came right out but the second one wouldn't budge. I've hit it with PB blaster yesterday morning and it has not helped. I was curious if locktite is used on these. I'm planning on using a blowtorch tonight. Also, if push comes to shove how much is it to replace one of these lines. I may just say screw it and cut the line and slap a breaker bar on it.

Last edited by MJD; Apr 18, 2007 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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I think Bowling Green uses a gorilla to put that one line on!! When we did ENGLANDGREEN's cam install, that one your talking was a BITCH to get off also.

Go to Sears and get a "FLARE NUT WRENCH" for that flare nut! I purchased the entire set of SAE and Metric flare nut wrenches while I was there and they have saved me a couple of times already!!!

I put the wrench on the nut and used a LONG heavy duty flat blade screw driver to pry the wrench in the loosening direction. It came loose! You just cant get your hands down there in the right position to put the correct force on the wrench!

If you don't use a flare nut wrench, Murphy's law says that your going to destroy the nut!!!

BC
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who had an issue with this line. I've already got a flare nut wrench for it and also a small pry bar. I'll give it another shot before I go to the tourch. Thanks Bill.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MJD
I've already ran into an issue. Was unbolting the power steering lines, the first one came right out but the second one wouldn't budge. I've hit it with PB blaster yesterday morning and it has not helped. I was curious if locktite is used on these. I'm planning on using a blowtorch tonight. Also, if push comes to shove how much is it to replace one of these lines. I may just say screw it and cut the line and slap a breaker bar on it.
Those nuts are a pain to break loose. If the outboard nut of the pair is the one giving you trouble, try going at it from the wheel well. Also, try having someone wiggle the line going into the nut as you try to break it loose. If you use heat plan on the possibilty of having to replace the o-ring on the lines.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Wheel well works good, mine came right out with a flare wrench.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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I managed to get it out last night without a torch. I moved the bracket out of the way so I could get the wrench in there where I could put my body weight behind it. Thanks for the tips guys. I've got a new question for you. Can I just pick up a 1" longer grade 8 bolt at the hardware store to help get the stock pulley off? Really don't want to buy any tool if a longer bolt will do the trick.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MJD
I managed to get it out last night without a torch. I moved the bracket out of the way so I could get the wrench in there where I could put my body weight behind it. Thanks for the tips guys. I've got a new question for you. Can I just pick up a 1" longer grade 8 bolt at the hardware store to help get the stock pulley off? Really don't want to buy any tool if a longer bolt will do the trick.
for others viewing, 18mm flare and sometimes a nice 'bump' will always work

I'd get the correct OTC puller in the GM manual
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:43 AM
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the rest is cake until you go to put the steering rack back in..
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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You can rent the tool at advance auto and return it. Thats what I did. Also check pepboys. If you are upgrading to a balancer/UD pulley, if you have the time get the tool that is posted elswewhere to help push it back on.

Or you can cheat like I did, (not reccomended but it worked) heat the pulley at 250 in the oven and then tap it on at least half way then use the old bolt to finish it off. Don't use the old bolt to initially put it on you could strip the threads in the crank.

Good Luck.

Brad
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