could it be the ignition switch?
Charlie


My wife's corvette has exhibited the EXACT same stalling in June, and again today. We managed to limp home ~20 miles by either 1) keeping the revs up over 1800, or 2) keeping the key in the crank position. #2 sure makes the hand cramp.
If the car ever fell below 1800 rpm, the car would cut out. The scary thing is that sometimes the car would sputter, SURGE, then finally die! The first time this happened I got the same LOW OIL warning after the car stalled. Today I got no such warning
The first time this happened we had the car towed to two different shops. The first could reproduce the issue at will, but after checking all grounds (they literally took the car apart) and swapping BCM's, all they could come up with is that power to the fuel pump was being cut--UNLESS you kept the key in the crank position.
The second shop couldn't get the issue to reproduce at all.
I pulled the following codes 5 minutes ago:
P1153 H
P1571 H
P1689 H C
U1096 H
U1160 H
That P1571 H seems to be the code we have in common. She has an 01 A4 coupe, full exhaust (LG Streets), Honker intake and tune, but the car exhibited this behavior back when it was stock.
One more thing: another forum member "The Viking" had similar issues in the following thread. Long story short: his problem was that the 10 pin ground connector under the battery tray wasn't grounded, so he added another one to it and it works fine now.
We plan to go back to the shop on Monday, will let y'all know what we find--but we need whatever help we can get from the forum (especially since we couldn't figure it out last time).
--Ed
Last edited by wong0580; Aug 25, 2007 at 09:48 PM.
The black paint is gooped up into blobs in a pattern similar to a water drop splat. There's no way I was getting a decent ground on this one... I'll grind/smooth it out tonight.
Bill Curlee? Any luck with your research?
--Ed
Your mention of a "LOW OIL" warning got me curious. I do recall the same flashing light on the instrument cluster the first time this started happening! Coincidentally I recently had the oil sending unit replaced before these issues starting popping up.
I just spoke with a colleague about this issue. He mentioned that his '99 suburban displayed a low oil error and then cut power to the fuel pump. He believes this is an accident safety feature. He resolved his problem by replacing his oil sender unit.
From my understanding: 1) when key is in "crank" position his vehicle uses a separate circuit to power the fuel pump. Then 2) when vehicle is running, a reading from the engine (oil pressure) keeps the fuel pump running on a different circuit.
My oil sending unit "seems" to be working fine, but I haven't been checking pressure levels while the car is stalling. I'll change the DIC to display this and see if the level goes to zero prior or during stalling. My mechanic informs me that he swapped both the pressure and level sensors and the problem still existed. He believes it's a wiring harness issues somewhere. However, this might be the source of your woes, Stranger383.
--Ed
Last edited by wong0580; Aug 27, 2007 at 06:07 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by orangejuice; Aug 27, 2007 at 07:24 PM.
I was just about to reply to your other post. Looks like you beat me to it
Guess misery loves company
Hopefully the dealership will be able to reproduce this issue (or Bill Curlee comes to the rescue). Last time after putting the car back together the problem miraculously went away--probably because the problem connection/wire/component was nudged just enough start working again.
--Ed


1) the car died while at freeway speeds (~68-70)
2) the DIC displayed service active handling
3) the DIC displayed service traction
We limped the car to the shop by holding the key in the crank position. Thankfully, the technician was able to reproduce the stalling issue at will (fire up the car, it would run for about 2 seconds, then sputter, surge a bit, and then finally die). I hope they can figure it out...
--Ed
I just got off the phone with my mechanic. He identified two bad grounds: G103 and G105.
G103 affected the stability system (active handling, traction control). The ground is located on the frame rail, just aft of the driver's side headlight. It is clearly pictured in Bill Curlee's sticky about electrical connections in the tech forum. The mechanic agrees that the crazy paint blops compromised the ground connection.
G105 affected the fuel pump and was a little more difficult to get at. Refer to the diagram in Bill Curlee's sticky about electrical connections, or refer to this thread for a text description (on different web site).
I hope they found all the issues..... we'll be picking up the car late tonight after work.
Stranger/Orange, I hope this helps you guys. It sounds like you're having EXACTLY these issues.
--Ed





So,,,if it were me and this was my car, I would recommend replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Sounds like your losing connection inside the switch when your in "RUN"
Hope this helps.
Bill
Bill: I heard about the weather in Carslile...crazy! Hope everything went well.
--Ed








