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could it be the ignition switch?

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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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This may not fix the problem, but the current P0410 code may mean the AIR pump has crapped out. The P0410 code has something to do with either secondary air injection I think. This is digging WAY back, but early C5's had some issues with AIR failure, and it seems like there was a check valve kit that the general put out to keep the pump from sneezing when water got into the line or something. Anyone have a better recollection of this?

Charlie
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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if this is the cause of stalling, what could be done tempor. to seeif it goes away?
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 08:21 PM
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ok it was a terrible stall day today. must have stalled every 4 or 5 minutes today. I did notice that the low oil level light would come on on occasion even though it is full. Is there maybe a connection with that and maybe something else on the same ground or circuit? I think I have noticed those things happeneing at the same time in the past. I still dont have any way to recreate the problem, no certain weather or coolant temp,etc. maybe there is a connection with the low oil warning? but the fact remains that when it does act u you have to hold the key to the start position to getit to run. this really is wacko.any other ideas? thanks
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Default exact same issue

Stanger383,

My wife's corvette has exhibited the EXACT same stalling in June, and again today. We managed to limp home ~20 miles by either 1) keeping the revs up over 1800, or 2) keeping the key in the crank position. #2 sure makes the hand cramp.

If the car ever fell below 1800 rpm, the car would cut out. The scary thing is that sometimes the car would sputter, SURGE, then finally die! The first time this happened I got the same LOW OIL warning after the car stalled. Today I got no such warning

The first time this happened we had the car towed to two different shops. The first could reproduce the issue at will, but after checking all grounds (they literally took the car apart) and swapping BCM's, all they could come up with is that power to the fuel pump was being cut--UNLESS you kept the key in the crank position.

The second shop couldn't get the issue to reproduce at all.

I pulled the following codes 5 minutes ago:

P1153 H
P1571 H
P1689 H C
U1096 H
U1160 H

That P1571 H seems to be the code we have in common. She has an 01 A4 coupe, full exhaust (LG Streets), Honker intake and tune, but the car exhibited this behavior back when it was stock.

One more thing: another forum member "The Viking" had similar issues in the following thread. Long story short: his problem was that the 10 pin ground connector under the battery tray wasn't grounded, so he added another one to it and it works fine now.

We plan to go back to the shop on Monday, will let y'all know what we find--but we need whatever help we can get from the forum (especially since we couldn't figure it out last time).

--Ed

Last edited by wong0580; Aug 25, 2007 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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im going right now to check the ground under the battery. Ill let you know what i come up with. thanks
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 10:13 AM
  #26  
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pulled the ground apart and it was pristine. I havent driven it yet but Im sure there is no change since the ground was so clean. This is ridiculous!
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Doh. My grounds are also pristine with one exception. The one just behind the driver's side light had a self-tapping bolt--probably from somebody in the past breaking the stock bolt. Upon removing the bolt, I found that the frame rail underneath wasn't flat!

The black paint is gooped up into blobs in a pattern similar to a water drop splat. There's no way I was getting a decent ground on this one... I'll grind/smooth it out tonight.

Bill Curlee? Any luck with your research?

--Ed
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 03:30 PM
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Stanger383:

Your mention of a "LOW OIL" warning got me curious. I do recall the same flashing light on the instrument cluster the first time this started happening! Coincidentally I recently had the oil sending unit replaced before these issues starting popping up.

I just spoke with a colleague about this issue. He mentioned that his '99 suburban displayed a low oil error and then cut power to the fuel pump. He believes this is an accident safety feature. He resolved his problem by replacing his oil sender unit.

From my understanding: 1) when key is in "crank" position his vehicle uses a separate circuit to power the fuel pump. Then 2) when vehicle is running, a reading from the engine (oil pressure) keeps the fuel pump running on a different circuit.

My oil sending unit "seems" to be working fine, but I haven't been checking pressure levels while the car is stalling. I'll change the DIC to display this and see if the level goes to zero prior or during stalling. My mechanic informs me that he swapped both the pressure and level sensors and the problem still existed. He believes it's a wiring harness issues somewhere. However, this might be the source of your woes, Stranger383.

--Ed

Last edited by wong0580; Aug 27, 2007 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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My 03 zo6 is doing the same exact thing!! I am going craZy with it also. I had the low oil light once, but it was sitting funny, I have NO CODES at all last time I checked. I have checked some of the grounds and they look new. I thought it might be bad gas at 1st but now I am clueless as to what it may be. Last nit when I tried to get on it it would cut out, turn the key while coasting in gear and it would start up, sometimes it will stay running other times it takes a couple tries. O and my oil pressure seems to be fine when it acts up.

Last edited by orangejuice; Aug 27, 2007 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 07:29 PM
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orangejuice,

I was just about to reply to your other post. Looks like you beat me to it Guess misery loves company

Hopefully the dealership will be able to reproduce this issue (or Bill Curlee comes to the rescue). Last time after putting the car back together the problem miraculously went away--probably because the problem connection/wire/component was nudged just enough start working again.

--Ed
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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My car is basically stock except for headers, intake and stereo. It has to be something simple, just don't know what lol I pulled the fuel pump fuse and the car ran for quite awhile so I am not sure it is just the pump shutting off.. I think it could be related to an oil pressure sender which could just cut the ignition if its getting a zero reading. That might explain why they start back up. My gauge might be going up slower than usual, it seems to build up to its running pressure slowly but goes up and down with the throttle normally. I just can't believe mine has thrown zero codes, how can that be?????
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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the message i get is low oil level, not low oil pressure so I cant beleive GM would shut down the fuel when you are one quart low since that is the level that the light is supposed to come on. I think there might be a link between the message and my problem. does anyone know exactly where the ground connects for the low oil level sending unit?? I also thinks its weird that if its a ground causing the problem that holding the key to crank position would allow it to run. It seems that holding the switch to run would not add grounds but perhaps additional hots that otherwise could be faulty. Im going caaaarrraaaazzzy!
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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I also tried switching the fuel pump relay with the horn one (they are the same#) it didn't help. I am about ready to find a dealer I hate and trade this thing off lol I am also located in iowa, not too many vettes in this area so I am pretty sure if one of the guys on here can't figure it out I am in trouble lol
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 01:24 AM
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Default Dropped off car at shop

My wife and I dropped off the corvette at the shop tonight. For the first time:

1) the car died while at freeway speeds (~68-70)
2) the DIC displayed service active handling
3) the DIC displayed service traction

We limped the car to the shop by holding the key in the crank position. Thankfully, the technician was able to reproduce the stalling issue at will (fire up the car, it would run for about 2 seconds, then sputter, surge a bit, and then finally die). I hope they can figure it out...

--Ed
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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wong, mine has died at those speeds also, its been random. I also had those things show on the dic, but I think its just from turning the key. The ground on the left frame rail behind the headlite is the ground for those readings cause I took it loose and didn't get it tight and got those messages sitting in my shop with the car running. I hope your tech can find the problem, I have a dealer right in town, but they have sold maybe 2 vettes so they would never figure it out. I tried to have them do some warranty work on one of my duramax trucks and they said it didn't pay enuff, take it elsewhere lol And they wonder why I have never bought anything from them. troy
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Default Problem Fixed!

It turns out Bill Curlee was [once again] right on the money with triple-checking electrical grounds.

I just got off the phone with my mechanic. He identified two bad grounds: G103 and G105.

G103 affected the stability system (active handling, traction control). The ground is located on the frame rail, just aft of the driver's side headlight. It is clearly pictured in Bill Curlee's sticky about electrical connections in the tech forum. The mechanic agrees that the crazy paint blops compromised the ground connection.

G105 affected the fuel pump and was a little more difficult to get at. Refer to the diagram in Bill Curlee's sticky about electrical connections, or refer to this thread for a text description (on different web site).

I hope they found all the issues..... we'll be picking up the car late tonight after work.

Stranger/Orange, I hope this helps you guys. It sounds like you're having EXACTLY these issues.

--Ed
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 09:40 PM
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I had the one on the frame off, will get the car up and get to the fuel pump one, I will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks to Bill and Ed for the info. Troy Hope I can get my jack under the car lol
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 12:50 AM
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Well,,,,,Im back from Carslile and this is the first chance that I have had to dig into the service manuals. Concerning the Ignition Switch; there isnt a single page or a single schematic that shows what the switch does of how it works. Every page that has power or circuits that are controlled by the ignition switch, theres a block at the top of the page that shows an input from the ignition switch (usually referenced as "hot in run or start")

So,,,if it were me and this was my car, I would recommend replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Sounds like your losing connection inside the switch when your in "RUN"

Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 02:39 AM
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FYI the car ran like a champ for the 20 miles back home from the shop! There were no codes to indicate that the fuel pump was going out. Spooky.

Bill: I heard about the weather in Carslile...crazy! Hope everything went well.

--Ed
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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thanks bill, I have to go to the bank and get some money, then I am going to check the ground 105 and if that doesn't do the trick I will do the ignition.
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