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How to stop squeaking brakes?

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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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Default How to stop squeaking brakes?

They squeak after warming up and don't stop until they cool down. I noticed this problem AFTER a track day at Gingerman so they took a fair amount of abuse. Plenty of meat left on the pads. I took the time to bed the fronts in properly, rears already had 47,000 miles or so. They (obviously), only squeak when the brakes are applied. Fronts are C5 Z06 pads on C6 rotors. Rears are stock C5. Thanks.

Dave
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Are c6 and c5 rotors the same? I thought they were different... maybe just on the z06?

I was going to mention do another bed in process... couldnt hurt I guess. BUT I would also make sure that you have pad material left at each corner. You may be hearing the wear indicator scratching against the rotor - this would be consistent with the warming up, and then noise, problem you're seeing. Does it squeak constantly, or in tempo?

Take the wheel off and check the rear inside pads first - the inside pads wear first and sometimes at an angle. I bet you are just ready for new pads. How old are the fronts?

Last edited by Subw00er; Jun 9, 2007 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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the harder the pad and the more stopping power the more squeaking.
My Hawk HP+ brakes (designed for Auto-X sqeak all the time) My AC/Delco ceramic don't squeak at all...

Pick do you want stopping power or noise free braking?
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
Are c6 and c5 rotors the same? I thought they were different... maybe just on the z06?

I was going to mention do another bed in process... couldnt hurt I guess. BUT I would also make sure that you have pad material left at each corner. You may be hearing the wear indicator scratching against the rotor - this would be consistent with the warming up, and then noise, problem you're seeing. Does it squeak constantly, or in tempo?

Take the wheel off and check the rear inside pads first - they wear first and sometimes at an angle. I bet you are just ready for new pads. How old are the fronts?

The C6 rotors are slightly different where they slip over the studs but work fine on the C5s. Many vette enthusiast/autocrossers have been using them since the C6 came out with zero issues. The design seems to draw heat away from the bearings better. The front pads prolly only have 2000 miles and the pad still looks a half inch thick. The rears look to be about half worn but the wear indicators are not close to the rotor, even on the inside. They squaek fairly consistently. I have heard that hi-po type pads like the Z06's are noisier, but man do they make a difference in stopping power. I will try to re-bed and see if that helps. Thanks.

Last edited by DeFormula; Jun 9, 2007 at 07:43 PM. Reason: add something
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DeFormula
The C6 rotors are slightly different where they slip over the studs but work fine on the C5s. Many vette enthusiast/autocrossers have been using them since the C6 came out with zero issues. The design seems to draw heat away from the bearings better. The front pads prolly only have 2000 miles and the pad still looks a half inch thick. The rears look to be about half worn but the wear indicators are not close to the rotor, even on the inside. They squaek fairly consistently. I have heard that hi-po type pads like the Z06's are noisier, but man do they make a difference in stopping power. I will try to re-bed and see if that helps. Thanks.
What pads are you using? I'm assuming stock pads?

If you do have aftermarket, agressive pads, you will probably hear squeaking - typically because of a higher metal content in the pad.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
What pads are you using? I'm assuming stock pads?

If you do have aftermarket, agressive pads, you will probably hear squeaking - typically because of a higher metal content in the pad.
Stock pads on rear (I think), C5 Z06 pads on frt.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DeFormula
Stock pads on rear (I think), C5 Z06 pads on frt.
So thats basically stock all around... Weird. Are you SURE you have pad material left on the rear? Did you take the wheels off? Can you see the wear indicator? How close is it to the rotor?

Do the calipers move freely? You can pull on them slow and steady with your hand (towards you) to compress the pistons until you get some play - it should move freely in and out.

BTW, Did you run at the track with active handling on, or in competition mode?
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Mine squealed all the time, so I just replaced the rotors w/ slotted and drilled ones. No sounds at all now.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
So thats basically stock all around... Weird. Are you SURE you have pad material left on the rear? Did you take the wheels off? Can you see the wear indicator? How close is it to the rotor?

Do the calipers move freely? You can pull on them slow and steady with your hand (towards you) to compress the pistons until you get some play - it should move freely in and out.

BTW, Did you run at the track with active handling on, or in competition mode?
I took the wheels off and there is quite a bit of distance left between the wear indicator and the rotor (1/16-1/8 inch). I'll need to double check on the caliper movement, I'm not totally sure about that. When at the track, I was in competition mode.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette-Red
Mine squealed all the time, so I just replaced the rotors w/ slotted and drilled ones. No sounds at all now.
I'm thinking I may just try sanding the rotors and pads to see if I can remove the glaze(?)
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DeFormula
I'm thinking I may just try sanding the rotors and pads to see if I can remove the glaze(?)

Mine squeaked in the same situations. Sounded fine when cold, but once heated up they would squeak at every stop. I was planning to go in there with some 220 grit and scuff up the rotors and the pads and reassemble. All I did was take the wheels off and hit it all with breakclean while spinning the rotors, front and back of them. 3500 miles and no squeaking since. Give it a try, alot easier than taking everything apart.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Have you ever tried that anti squeal stuff they sell at auto part stores? It’s a substance that goes on the back of the brake pad where the piston pushes on it. Worked great on my C4. Others have also used blue Permatex with success.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Brake later and harder.

Being too gentle on the brakes would cause them too squeal too.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadHunter1
Mine squeaked in the same situations. Sounded fine when cold, but once heated up they would squeak at every stop. I was planning to go in there with some 220 grit and scuff up the rotors and the pads and reassemble. All I did was take the wheels off and hit it all with breakclean while spinning the rotors, front and back of them. 3500 miles and no squeaking since. Give it a try, alot easier than taking everything apart.

Great suggestion. I'll give it a try.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 87SAM
Have you ever tried that anti squeal stuff they sell at auto part stores? It’s a substance that goes on the back of the brake pad where the piston pushes on it. Worked great on my C4. Others have also used blue Permatex with success.
I've tried it on other vehicles and was planning on eventually trying it on the vette if needed. The squealing only started after the Grattan track day though so up until now it hasn't been a problem.

Last edited by DeFormula; Jun 10, 2007 at 09:46 PM. Reason: correct spelling
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Brake later and harder.

Being too gentle on the brakes would cause them too squeal too.
I found this to be true, however, for me it isn't always practical.
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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UPDATE...

I tried all of these suggestions and concluded it is just the hi-po pads. I went back to the stockers and the squeal is gone and they produce much less dust. I have decided I'll just switch over to the hi-po ones for track days.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Dave
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