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Im thinking about picking up the gm hot cam kit and all the guides I find also involve replacing the head which changes several steps. Does anyone know of a pictorial guide of a cam install that keeps the heads on?
I just took the head/cam swap, downloaded it and then edited it for my own use in the cam swap. But I also had a fully adjustable valve train that was part of it as well. I also think LS1howto has a cam swap in the f-body section.
What year? I used 5/16 metal rods. Note, they will prevent them from falling out but not from slipping down enough to get in the way of the cam removal/installation. Just using the lifter trays (friction) is known affectionately as the "Russian Roulette" method.
The rods slide into holes on the front of the block, at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions around the cam bore. The holes they slide into are behind cam retaining plate, and are the oil feed passages for the lifters. The rods slide past the lifters at their mid section, where their diameter is smaller, thus preventing the lifters from falling into the pan. You can see the bent ends of the rods I made sticking out of the holes in the pic below.
The rods slide into holes on the front of the block, at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions around the cam bore. The holes they slide into are behind cam retaining plate, and are the oil feed passages for the lifters. The rods slide past the lifters at their mid section, where their diameter is smaller, thus preventing the lifters from falling into the pan. You can see the bent ends of the rods I made sticking out of the holes in the pic below.
awesome. So is there any luck involved in this method or is this fool-proof?