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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #41  
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Come post it up that the 60ft time is not important!

We don't want more bull post it up! or shut up!


I thought not!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 97vetteman
What the hell has golf and tennis got to do with drag racing.

Any pro drag racer knows if you blow the lauch you can kiss goodbye to your optimum time for your car!
Don't normally have to draw pictures for members here. But I'll be courteous and make an exception for you.

Drag racing is a sport. Getting good in any sport requires technique, focus, dedication, and practice, a lot of practice.

No one gets good or even gets marginal by focusing on only one element of a sport.

You are advising a new racer who's just completed his first passes to focus on only launch (because the rest of the race is so easy). That is like saying only putting is important or only the serve is important.

I'm just guessing, but I suspect you've never coached in sports.

Ranger
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #43  
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Mike, if the car has a clutch, there is more to fast times than the launch


Kiss goodbye to your fast time if your blow the launch!

So fancy gear changing makes up for a bad launch does it!

I don't think so!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Don't normally have to draw pictures for members here. But I'll be courteous and make an exception for you.

Drag racing is a sport. Getting good in any sport requires technique, focus, dedication, and practice, a lot of practice.

No one gets good or even gets marginal by focusing on only one element of a sport.

You are advising a new racer who's just completed his first passes to focus on only launch (because the rest of the race is so easy). That is like saying only putting is important or only the serve is important.

I'm just guessing, but I suspect you've never coached in sports.

Ranger
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I'm still waiting for your post that the 60ft time is not important in getting a good time!

If he gets the launch right he's got something to work with if he blows the launch he is wasting his time!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #45  
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Been posting here for nearly 7 years. Have a very small and exclusive ignore-list of intemperate, discourteous, unpleasant folks.

Congratulations, 97vetteman, you've made the list. First Brit on it. Hoist a pint.

Ranger
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #46  
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I'm still waiting for your post that the 60ft time is not important in getting a good time!


Oh you can't post it up because you know I'm right!

Come on admit that the first 60 ft is important!

So it dosn't matter if you can't launch your car in drag racing as long as your good at changing gear!

I get it now why didn't you say that in the first place!

Oh yeh you did in your first past
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:11 PM
  #47  
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You made my full of **** list!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 97vetteman


Kiss goodbye to your fast time if your blow the launch!

So fancy gear changing makes up for a bad launch does it!

I don't think so!
exactly. Like I was trying to say in another post; you got to develop the skills needed first; mods don't take the place of skill; they're meant to further enhance aquired skill.

If you do go over 5:1 rear axle ratio, it may actually lessen rear wheel spin... as the wheel RPM is lowered to the point that it makes it more manageable. But since you can't get that high a ratio for the C5... it's a moot point.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 12:40 AM
  #49  
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Mike I'm glad someone else realises the the lanuch is important.

The original poster wanted to know why his M6 stock Vette was not running the low 13's that it is capable of and it's down to the slow 60ft time once that improves to 2 seconds or below he will run low 13's.

It may be down to crappy tires and DR's may solve the problem or as you said pratice Pratice Pratice and when you get that lauch right the faster times will come. It certainly possible to get sub 2 second 60ft times on street tires. But if you want 1.7 60ft times then you will need DR's

I don't remermber the post being I'm having trouble changing gear?

Go to Ls1tech.com and look at the 12 seocnd club the 11 second club and it's pretty obvious that sub 2 seconds 60ft times just as important for A4 and M6 cars!
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 12:49 AM
  #50  
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JuicedVette036, If you're still around when the auto-tranny "experts" are finished dispensing "advice," I'd be happy to discuss some points by phone. If you're interested, drop me a PM with a phone number and a convenient time to talk.

Our Maryland based Corvette-club has a high concentration of good six-speed stick drivers and we've been working on techniques together for many years. I teach professionally. I suspect some fast times are in your future with a bit of coaching for which there is no charge.

Ranger

Last edited by Ranger; Jun 27, 2007 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 10:50 AM
  #51  
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I will jump into this frey of information with a few facts from my direct experience. I have a 99FRC and the list below names mods and times and even a few dyno numbers.

Stock, Yeah totally.
13.3x@110 2.16 60'

***************
Blackwing air filter, B&M Ripper, GoodYear F1GSD3's and Raptor shift light. Dyno 317RWHP, can not remember TQ.

12.88@110 2.0 60'

***************
Ported MAF Ends, LS6 Intake swap. Dyno 326RWHP.

12.82@113 2.0 60'

***************

BFG 18" DR's

12.50@112 1.78 60' I was like after that run. I need to note the track was really holding and I managed a 4.5K slip launch. Thanks Ranger for the tips.

***************

Melrose LT Headers with high flow cats, Vararam.

12.20@115 1.80 60'. Agian track was freakishly sticky .

***************

Thunder racing cam 230/224 575/563 111LSA, Bastard grind yes, but i got for 100 bucks... Dyno 375RWHP360RWHP, tune time.

12.30@115 1.85 60' on DR's... Shake down run with new cam. I developed a problem here. I now overpower and smoke the factory clutch .

Change back to F1GSD3's for the rest of the year 12.3 all day with 1.9 60's.

**************

Spec3+ clutch and street tires =
13.0@108 2.3 60'. SPin city I am going thur the traps at the end of 3rd gear. I need to remount the DR's.

Hope this helps some. I have had alot of fun during the journey. Once the DR's are back on I will resume the hunt for 11's.

Read and practice Rangers tips, they work. And if you drive the manual cars hard change the hydraulic fluid often in the clutch.

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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by ROJO99
I will jump into this frey of information with a few facts from my direct experience. I have a 99FRC and the list below names mods and times and even a few dyno numbers.

Stock, Yeah totally.
13.3x@110 2.16 60'

Read and practice Rangers tips, they work. And if you drive the manual cars hard change the hydraulic fluid often in the clutch.

Quite a bit of progress, ROJO99. Congratulation.

Very much to the point of the original poster's issue would be if you, by chance, might post the slip-splits of the first two or three passes you ever made in your FRC. And the same values for the fine 13.3X pass. I then would load them up in the usual spread sheet I use for analyzing passes. Posted, it would show the progress you made in the driving department in the different segments of your passes.

The spread sheet will show that there's a lot more to piloting a 6-speed stick than just the 60'.

If you have the slips or a log, please post the data.

Thanks,

Ranger
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 06:17 PM
  #53  
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I will search the drawers at home Ranger and see if I have the slips still.

There is more than the launch I agree, in 1320' you must launch well, shift three gear changes and stay in the groove for best results. Hence the mods that some say are a waste of money since they yeild zero HP, Shift Light and Shifter.

But when its all said and done while at the track I am not going to break any records, I just want to have a good time and drive FAST.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 08:01 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by ROJO99
I will jump into this frey of information with a few facts from my direct experience. I have a 99FRC and the list below names mods and times and even a few dyno numbers.

Stock, Yeah totally.
13.3x@110 2.16 60'

***************
Blackwing air filter, B&M Ripper, GoodYear F1GSD3's and Raptor shift light. Dyno 317RWHP, can not remember TQ.

12.88@110 2.0 60'

***************
Ported MAF Ends, LS6 Intake swap. Dyno 326RWHP.

12.82@113 2.0 60'

***************

BFG 18" DR's

12.50@112 1.78 60' I was like after that run. I need to note the track was really holding and I managed a 4.5K slip launch. Thanks Ranger for the tips.

***************

Melrose LT Headers with high flow cats, Vararam.

12.20@115 1.80 60'. Agian track was freakishly sticky .

***************

Thunder racing cam 230/224 575/563 111LSA, Bastard grind yes, but i got for 100 bucks... Dyno 375RWHP360RWHP, tune time.

12.30@115 1.85 60' on DR's... Shake down run with new cam. I developed a problem here. I now overpower and smoke the factory clutch .

Change back to F1GSD3's for the rest of the year 12.3 all day with 1.9 60's.

**************

Spec3+ clutch and street tires =
13.0@108 2.3 60'. SPin city I am going thur the traps at the end of 3rd gear. I need to remount the DR's.

Hope this helps some. I have had alot of fun during the journey. Once the DR's are back on I will resume the hunt for 11's.

Read and practice Rangers tips, they work. And if you drive the manual cars hard change the hydraulic fluid often in the clutch.

Hey Barry

I must say you have tweaked every nano-second out of your manual shift FRC.

Barry is a classic example of a person learning to drive a car to it's fullest... first. Then each time he added a mod, the gains almost instantly paid off
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 12:01 AM
  #55  
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I ran 13.2X with a 2.2X 60',stock other than intake and cat back.I shifted better than I launched.I used to race a full drag car with an auto and trans brake,it was easy compared to this MN6 in street trim.Bottom line is to get a good e.t. with the MN6 you have to launch good but the work is only starting but if you can get a so so 60' and shift fair then you should be able to run a low 13.I would try to work on all of it.
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by bobbss
I ran 13.2X with a 2.2X 60',stock other than intake and cat back.I shifted better than I launched.I used to race a full drag car with an auto and trans brake,it was easy compared to this MN6 in street trim.Bottom line is to get a good e.t. with the MN6 you have to launch good but the work is only starting but if you can get a so so 60' and shift fair then you should be able to run a low 13.I would try to work on all of it.
Hi bobbss,

If you already have a good general knowledge of fast driving techniques, you can generally make rapid progress if you are told the optimal techniques for your platform.
tire pressure
ideal coolant temp
gen launch rpm
throttle squeeze duration
hand position on shifter
shift points by gear
throttle position during shifts
throttle action post-shift
foot position in relation to clutch
procedure for burnout
steps for avoiding breakage
etc.

If, on the other hand, you must discover those techniques independently through experimentation, it takes much longer.

I had 500 passes in C5s. When I transitioned to the C6Z It took 4 passes to run 11.31; 10 passes to run 11.20 (DRs) and 42 more to shed another .35 seconds to 10.85. That's 52 total passes. the 10.85 remains the all-time record for a stock Corvette on DRs.

It would have taken less than half that if someone had briefed me on the right techniques. Unfortunately, I was plowing fresh ground.

If an owner has no experience at the track but wants to learn and receives the benefit of briefing by knowledgeable drivers, I'd estimate 30-50 passes will be needed to be truly dialed-in.

Then there's the queston...what is "dialed-in driving." To me it means a driver can make five passes and get three of them within one tenth and one more within two tenths. This allows one outlier. Seriously dialed in driving will put five of five within a tenth. Not many folks with a manual tranny can do that.

With all that said, there is a lot of practice that can be done away from the track to compress the learning curves.

Ranger
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 01:29 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Hi bobbss,

If you already have a good general knowledge of fast driving techniques, you can generally make rapid progress if you are told the optimal techniques for your platform.
tire pressure
ideal coolant temp
gen launch rpm
throttle squeeze duration
hand position on shifter
shift points by gear
throttle position during shifts
throttle action post-shift
foot position in relation to clutch
procedure for burnout
steps for avoiding breakage
etc.

If, on the other hand, you must discover those techniques independently through experimentation, it takes much longer.

I had 500 passes in C5s. When I transitioned to the C6Z It took 4 passes to run 11.31; 10 passes to run 11.20 (DRs) and 42 more to shed another .35 seconds to 10.85. That's 52 total passes. the 10.85 remains the all-time record for a stock Corvette on DRs.

It would have taken less than half that if someone had briefed me on the right techniques. Unfortunately, I was plowing fresh ground.

If an owner has no experience at the track but wants to learn and receives the benefit of briefing by knowledgeable drivers, I'd estimate 30-50 passes will be needed to be truly dialed-in.

Then there's the queston...what is "dialed-in driving." To me it means a driver can make five passes and get three of them within one tenth and one more within two tenths. This allows one outlier. Seriously dialed in driving will put five of five within a tenth. Not many folks with a manual tranny can do that.

With all that said, there is a lot of practice that can be done away from the track to compress the learning curves.

Ranger

I made 5 passes on my first and only time I've taken the car to the track.2 passes I slipped the clutch way to much and the pedal stuck to the floor which flusterd me enough that I missed my shifts on top of it so those were in the 14s.The other 3 was 13.22-13.28-13.28 and I think all 3 was at 109 mph.I was kind of shocked that I got 2 of them the same and the other one so close.The 13.22 was with the traction control on and my 60' was 2.10.
I've been wanting to get back over to the track but did heads and cam a few months ago and had a few bugs to take care of.I probably shouldn't take it at all till I get a new clutch (443 rwhp),I think I felt it slip a few times in 4th.Hoping with practice to see mid 11s on street tires. P.S. I'll take all the tips I can get!
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