I'm starting a clutch replacement and using 'Dope's" install guide and have a couple of questions:

1) My rear carrier is *almost* 18" off the ground, is that enough to get the torque tube out of the way? Can I pull the carrier out from under the car (I'm guessing no). Or do I need to get the car higher (I'll have to get new jack stands and a bigger floor jack if so) I'd like to pull the carrier out because my tranny leaks fluid where it meets the differential and I was going to re-do the gasket matierial. If I can do the clutch replacement with only 18" of clearance I might put up with the leaking for awhile.

2) My car is a '97 and I have a bracket on the back of the carrier that has what I believe to be the ABS proportioning stuff. There is a BOSCH pump looking thing, a manifold block, and at least four brake lines running into it. I assume I should unbolt it from the carrier and try to leave it in place, or should I just unbolt the lines and leave it with the carrier and pull it too?

3) I bought an LAPD remote clutch bleeder kit. Where/how do you guys mount the remote bleeder, just tye-wrap it to the line going back to the clutch master cylinder? The instructions I got are woefully brief.

Thank you all in advance, This forum Rocks!!

 

You will probably need the car a little higher. You need to unbolt the abs braket from the rear cradle and tyerap it up under the car. You deff. don't want to disconnect all the line's from it. You can remove the trans and torque tube from the diff. carrier once you have everything sitting on the ground out from under the car.

Just pm or call me tomarrow if you need help or have questions.

 

It's a job. Just got done doing this. You want to get both the front and the rear of the car up in the air. Also have a tranny jack available to get out the tranny as it is haevy and awkward.

Be very carefull bringing down the torque tube as your fuel lines on are on tunnel on the left hand side. You need to rotate the assemble some so that the shifter housing does not his the fuel and brake lines.

 

Also, there is a step in the manual to use a putty knife to get the shifter bar around the lines in the side of the tunnel. I made a piece to do this. I also took measurements so re-assembly was easy. See this link for what I did.

Link

 

I would just remove the shifter housing from the torque tube that way you don't have any problems with it hitting the fuel lines.

 

I already pulled my shifter off so I don't know if I need to use the putty knife or not, I was going to wait and see.

How high off the ground do I need to get the rear carrier?

And what about mounting the end of the remote bleeder, any advice?

Thanks guys!!

 

It's the shifter housing on the torque tube that you would need to remove.

You'll want to get the rear at least 24" off the ground. I put my front tires up on ramps and then jacked the rear up. If you have header's you'll have to take out all of the bolts and let them hang out of the way.

I mounted my remote bleed on the side of my chasis. I got it from LAPD and it really isn't long enough yo mount up top. Besides I don't want brake fluid all over my engine compartment when I bleed. it.

 

Its not the shifter housing, its the aluminum band that it locks into. If you look closely at the photo you can see what you have to watch for.