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What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
I don't remember. Just pop out the detent and head down to the hardware store.
From: Southern New Jersey, The wet part at the bottom
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Originally Posted by Fastbird93
What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
3/4" doesn't fit without reaming. The size you want is 22mm. The easiest thing to do is go to NAPA and get 3 copper drain plug gaskets part NAPA BALKAMP #704-1357. As stated you need to go at least .125" (1/8") I used three and got .150" and am very happy with the results.
What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
I can't remember the size i got but it was a bit smaller, so i filed the hole bigger using a round file. The one i got was a copper washer so it was fairly easy to remove material.
I just used a 3/4" flat washer and it worked fine. Although I think 1/8" is too thick, I would sitck to 1/16"
You'd be wrong. The Anti Venom mod completely removes the detent action. A 1/16" washer ain't gonna do that. All you really need is a plug for the hole left behind. You want to shim it far enough to REMOVE the detent ball from making contact.
You'd be wrong. The Anti Venom mod completely removes the detent action. A 1/16" washer ain't gonna do that. All you really need is a plug for the hole left behind. You want to shim it far enough to REMOVE the detent ball from making contact.
I would think that the resulting reduction of shifting effort could be variable, depending on the thickness of the washer up to the thickness (1/8"?) that completely removes the force of the ball detent. In other words, if you use a 1/16" thick washer, you should have some reduction of effort, a 3/32", more, etc, etc until the thickness reaches 1/8-inch.
I would think that the resulting reduction of shifting effort could be variable, depending on the thickness of the washer up to the thickness (1/8"?) that completely removes the force of the ball detent. In other words, if you use a 1/16" thick washer, you should have some reduction of effort, a 3/32", more, etc, etc until the thickness reaches 1/8-inch.
With a 1/8" spacer the shfiter feels a little too sloppy to me. A 1/16" spacer allows the detent to partially engage, thus retaining some notchiness. Maybe you are the one that is WRONG.
I would think that the resulting reduction of shifting effort could be variable, depending on the thickness of the washer up to the thickness (1/8"?) that completely removes the force of the ball detent. In other words, if you use a 1/16" thick washer, you should have some reduction of effort, a 3/32", more, etc, etc until the thickness reaches 1/8-inch.
Yes but thats not what happens. What happens is people complain that it feels strange.
What I think happens when you only partially move the detent ball is that it "catches" the edge of the detent in a way not intended.
All I'm saying is I've tried different thicknesses, and my results were clear. You need to completely remove the detent ball from contact with rail to get the full benefit.
When you remove the detent, try the shifter. Then put the too thin washer on and try again. You will see the light
With a 1/8" spacer the shfiter feels a little too sloppy to me. A 1/16" spacer allows the detent to partially engage, thus retaining some notchiness. Maybe you are the one that is WRONG.
Kind of hard for anyone to be wrong about FEEL. To duplicate the Anti Venom mod you must remove the detent completely.
This whole washer thing came about because people didn't want to pay $60 for a plug.
Many folks with stock shifters think it is too sloppy, because well, the stock shifter is too sloppy.
By removing contact between the shift detent and the shift rod in the transmission (by spacing the detent outwards) you will cause excessive wear on the fork pads in the transmission.
The detent keeps the shift rod locked in one fixed position where the loads on the fork pads will be at their smallest, when the shift fork is at rest with the transmission in gear. Removing this interaction between the detent and the shift rod allows small external forces (like resting your hand on the shifter while cruising) to apply a constant load to the fork pads, which will wear them out over time. This will damage the fork pads, and once they're worn right through, also require the replacement of the shift forks as the hardened slider rings will eat right through them.
Use a shifter you like with the detent screwed in.
By removing contact between the shift detent and the shift rod in the transmission (by spacing the detent outwards) you will cause excessive wear on the fork pads in the transmission.
The detent keeps the shift rod locked in one fixed position where the loads on the fork pads will be at their smallest, when the shift fork is at rest with the transmission in gear. Removing this interaction between the detent and the shift rod allows small external forces (like resting your hand on the shifter while cruising) to apply a constant load to the fork pads, which will wear them out over time. This will damage the fork pads, and once they're worn right through, also require the replacement of the shift forks as the hardened slider rings will eat right through them.
Use a shifter you like with the detent screwed in.
My $.02.
Can you share the source of this info? My understanding is that the detent is to prevent popping out of gear.
I could find no one who could provide an authoritative source for this information. I was also told that not all tremecs even have it.