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Can someone post the MN6 washer mod ?

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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 04:42 PM
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Default Can someone post the MN6 washer mod ?

Can someone post the MN6 "washer / spacer" mod that makes the transmission easier and less notchy ?

I have tried search and can not find it.

Thank you !
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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This one??
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&postcount=10
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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I would go thicker than 1/16". The AntiVenom mod is where you replaced the shift detent assm. with a very expensive plug.

I would use at least 1/8". You want the ball to be completely disengaged from the detent rod.

You will understand once you remove the detent.


Last edited by FRCTony; Jul 23, 2007 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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What is it exactly that this mod does?
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 05:09 PM
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It takes pressure off of the linkage and allows easier shifting.

Thanks guys for posting so quick !
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird93
What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
I don't remember. Just pop out the detent and head down to the hardware store.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Good info, think I'll give this a try. Thanks.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird93
What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
3/4" doesn't fit without reaming. The size you want is 22mm. The easiest thing to do is go to NAPA and get 3 copper drain plug gaskets part NAPA BALKAMP #704-1357. As stated you need to go at least .125" (1/8") I used three and got .150" and am very happy with the results.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird93
What's the absolute minimum opening for the center hole of the washer? We have some at work that are .735 wide, which is just a gnats butt under 3/4 inch.
I can't remember the size i got but it was a bit smaller, so i filed the hole bigger using a round file. The one i got was a copper washer so it was fairly easy to remove material.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 10:15 AM
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I just used a 3/4" flat washer and it worked fine. Although I think 1/8" is too thick, I would sitck to 1/16"
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HP_Addict
I just used a 3/4" flat washer and it worked fine. Although I think 1/8" is too thick, I would sitck to 1/16"
You'd be wrong. The Anti Venom mod completely removes the detent action. A 1/16" washer ain't gonna do that. All you really need is a plug for the hole left behind. You want to shim it far enough to REMOVE the detent ball from making contact.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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for more info...
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by FRCTony
You'd be wrong. The Anti Venom mod completely removes the detent action. A 1/16" washer ain't gonna do that. All you really need is a plug for the hole left behind. You want to shim it far enough to REMOVE the detent ball from making contact.

I would think that the resulting reduction of shifting effort could be variable, depending on the thickness of the washer up to the thickness (1/8"?) that completely removes the force of the ball detent. In other words, if you use a 1/16" thick washer, you should have some reduction of effort, a 3/32", more, etc, etc until the thickness reaches 1/8-inch.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
I would think that the resulting reduction of shifting effort could be variable, depending on the thickness of the washer up to the thickness (1/8"?) that completely removes the force of the ball detent. In other words, if you use a 1/16" thick washer, you should have some reduction of effort, a 3/32", more, etc, etc until the thickness reaches 1/8-inch.


With a 1/8" spacer the shfiter feels a little too sloppy to me. A 1/16" spacer allows the detent to partially engage, thus retaining some notchiness. Maybe you are the one that is WRONG.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
I would think that the resulting reduction of shifting effort could be variable, depending on the thickness of the washer up to the thickness (1/8"?) that completely removes the force of the ball detent. In other words, if you use a 1/16" thick washer, you should have some reduction of effort, a 3/32", more, etc, etc until the thickness reaches 1/8-inch.
Yes but thats not what happens. What happens is people complain that it feels strange.

What I think happens when you only partially move the detent ball is that it "catches" the edge of the detent in a way not intended.

All I'm saying is I've tried different thicknesses, and my results were clear. You need to completely remove the detent ball from contact with rail to get the full benefit.

When you remove the detent, try the shifter. Then put the too thin washer on and try again. You will see the light
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HP_Addict


With a 1/8" spacer the shfiter feels a little too sloppy to me. A 1/16" spacer allows the detent to partially engage, thus retaining some notchiness. Maybe you are the one that is WRONG.
Kind of hard for anyone to be wrong about FEEL. To duplicate the Anti Venom mod you must remove the detent completely.

This whole washer thing came about because people didn't want to pay $60 for a plug.

Many folks with stock shifters think it is too sloppy, because well, the stock shifter is too sloppy.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 04:26 PM
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Go to the auto parts store and get a 20mm oil pan drain plug with copper washer.

I used 3 of them. Also installed a C6 Z06 shifter (from Gene Culley)

Shifts great now.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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By removing contact between the shift detent and the shift rod in the transmission (by spacing the detent outwards) you will cause excessive wear on the fork pads in the transmission.

The detent keeps the shift rod locked in one fixed position where the loads on the fork pads will be at their smallest, when the shift fork is at rest with the transmission in gear. Removing this interaction between the detent and the shift rod allows small external forces (like resting your hand on the shifter while cruising) to apply a constant load to the fork pads, which will wear them out over time. This will damage the fork pads, and once they're worn right through, also require the replacement of the shift forks as the hardened slider rings will eat right through them.

Use a shifter you like with the detent screwed in.

My $.02.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Angel
By removing contact between the shift detent and the shift rod in the transmission (by spacing the detent outwards) you will cause excessive wear on the fork pads in the transmission.

The detent keeps the shift rod locked in one fixed position where the loads on the fork pads will be at their smallest, when the shift fork is at rest with the transmission in gear. Removing this interaction between the detent and the shift rod allows small external forces (like resting your hand on the shifter while cruising) to apply a constant load to the fork pads, which will wear them out over time. This will damage the fork pads, and once they're worn right through, also require the replacement of the shift forks as the hardened slider rings will eat right through them.

Use a shifter you like with the detent screwed in.

My $.02.
Can you share the source of this info? My understanding is that the detent is to prevent popping out of gear.

I could find no one who could provide an authoritative source for this information. I was also told that not all tremecs even have it.
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