I have solved the traction control problems now I'm getting an ACTIVE CONTROL warning on occasion when I brake. No codes are active. Any suggestions?

Jeff

 

What do you mean by an active control issue? Do you see some sort of message on the DIC?

Bill

 

Well if the message you are getting is "Active Handeling Engaged" and you are driving it hard, it means the car is stepping in to do differential braking or retard the spark to keep you in line.

 

It is active handling that it reads. It is doing this at low speeds when braking.

 

Press your hazard button; does it work? Check to see if you even have stop lamp (brake) lights. Check your #8 fuse (20amp) STPHZD in the passenger foot side.

 

Just curious, but how does the hazard switch relate to Active Handling?

 

Fuse is good brake lights and the hazard lights work. Could it have to do with the break fluid breaking down? When I get the warning I can feel the ABS working on the brakes.

Jeff

 

One other thing...I just put all new drilled and slotted rotors and Bendix ceramic breke pads all the way around (less than 300 miles on them). Could the active handling be feeling the the new brakes and rotors and just need some break-in time? I'm thinking they may be trying to grab and the active handling is taking over????

Thanks in advance for everyone's help. Jeff from LA (Lower Alabama)

 

Sounds like someone inadvertently disconnected the wheel speed sensors.

 

It's what just happened to me yesterday. It was that blown fuse and A/C, TC use same fuse.

But BoP Bop car sounds like it would be the sensor behind the wheel got pulled on or out now that he said this type of work was done on it.

 

Sounds to me like you have "over braked" the car. With the set-up you describe "drilled and slotted rotors and Bendix ceramic breke pads" ... you are generating more braking torque than the tires can handle. The tires are locking and ABS is stepping in. It is possible you are also getting Active Handling, AH generates a faster pulse sensation than ABS does. AH may be stepping in if the EBCM senses that the vehicle is starting to "slew" while the ABS is active. AH is trying to keep the car going in the direction the steering wheel input indicates you want to go.

What tires do you have on the car? How old (in years) are they ???

You say "No codes are active" .... you mean there are no codes... or are there codes that are H (History) codes. List any Cxxxx codes. If there are no codes, then the speculation that the steering wheel position sensor and/or wheel speed sensors have a problem are incorrect. If there was a disconnected speed or steering sensor (or failing ones) you would get codes from the EBCM.

 

Naaaaaaaaaaaaa,,,,i think I know whats happening. The very first thing that you need to do is read the DTC,s and post them here. here is a link that details how to do that. You have a built in scanner:

This is the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) web site!!!

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html

www.corvettedoctor.com

Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\

Here is another very good site:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

Sounds like your EBTCM is causing the issue. My 02 ZO6 did the same thing. Do you get the pulsation feeling when your just driving down the road and you not even using the brakes????


If you read and post your DTc, it will help us get to the cause of your issue. If you have never read the codes before, its a good idea to clear them all and see what new codes set and post them.

BC

 

I am getting the pulsing that you mentioned while riding down the road with no brakes applied.

Sounds like we are getting to the bottom of the problem:

 

Dump the codes as Bill suggests ... that will go a LONG way in helping to diagnose the problem.

Post the DTCs and someone can narrow down the problem even further.

 

Sounds like you have the dreaded EBTCM failure. In my case I would get the ocassional plusations but worse than that, I would get a EBTCM failure and all the associated warnings on the DIC when I reached 42 MPH. If I drove around all day at 41 mph, all was fine. Hit 42 mph and it would fail.

Recommend that you send your module out to the ABS Fixer for repair. It a whole lot better than the GM Junk that will just fail the same way again. The rebuilt EBTCMs are better!

BC

 

Do I need to send in both sides, electronic and brake hydraulic side?

Jeff

You guys are the BOMB! I'd be up the creek without a padle without y'all!!!!!!!!!

Thanks a million. Jeff

 

I'm going to dump all the codes and see what comes back and I'll let you guys know....OK?


Thanks....Jeff

 

Electronic Brake Control Module

The most common code for the EBCM is C1214 - Sol Valve relay Contact or coil CKT Open.

The EBCM sits between the engine and radiator. The EBCM is on the left with the large wire harness coming into it and the sticker on top. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) in on the right with the brake lines coming out. The EBCM is a dry module, meaning that you can change it out without having to worry about bleeding the ABS system. All of the brake fluid is contained within the BPMV. The coils fit over small spools that have valves inside them. The valves are operated by an electromagnetic field supplied by the coils.
Start by doing a quick visual inspection of the wires. If there are any obvious signs of damage, you've likely found the problem. One member had a problem with the wires rubbing the serpentine belt



Also check to make sure the wire harness has a good connection. If the connection appears solid disconnect it (see step 3 in the replacement instructions below) check the pins to ensure that they have not been bent or damaged in any way. If there is any sign of corrosion, clean it off. Once everything looks good, reseat the harness.


Next, let's move on to the grounds. The EBCM is grounded to the chassis on the left frame rail, just forward of the engine. It's the Black box right in the middle. As you can see, it's real easy for dirt and moisture to get in that area which isn't exactly good for electronic components. Even if you never drive your car in the rain, it'll still get wet when you wash it, and that could be enough



Start by unbolting the chassis ground, then take the chassis ground connector apart.


Also clean off the chassis and bolt to make sure you've got a good clean ground.

*If you are having any other electrical issues, it's a good idea to check the grounds.
At this point, we know all of the wires are good, but for some reason enough voltage is not getting to the system. It is possible that your battery is not functioning properly. If your battery is a couple of years old, has been drained and recharged a couple of times it might be a good idea to go ahead and replace your battery. This is a long shot for EBCM issues, but I think it's worth a shot before spending several hundred dollars for a new EBCM and you're going to have to replace it eventually anyways. Old batteries can cause a variety of minor electrical issues and you likely have a bunch of history codes for minor issues if the battery is causing the problem.


Now on the EBCM itself. If the electrical contacts inside the relay are dirty or burnt, the vibration from striking the module may change the symptoms or may clear them up for a while. This is by no means a fix or a cure all, in fact it could make it worse or it may not do anything, it's just something to try. Use a small plastic hammer or something similar, lightly tap the front of the EBCM on the lower right corner of the module. The area will be on the right hand side of the lower electrical connection.




At this point, You've got to additional possibilities. Replace the EBCM or replace both the EBCM and the BPMV. The service manual calls for you to measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV, if that checks our okay, you replace the EBCM if not you replace them both. Since most people do not have the equipment to do this the best we can do is to replace the EBCM. If that doesn't work, you'll have to go back and replace the BPMV.

The procedure for replacing the EBCM is very simple. The only special tool you need is a T-20 torx screw driver. I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was to long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV

1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - you will probably need to remove the airbridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie) , then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness (At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down .
4 - The service manual call for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restrict the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides .
6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screw driver to brake the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes have a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. push the repaired EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - reconnect the wire harness
10 - put the intake back on

An alternative to buying a new one is to have your original rebuilt.
For EBCM repair/replace

Call Brandon

877-648-7530 at ABS FIXER



or: www.absfixer.com



$150. plus UPS....warranted as long as You own it



At this point, the AH/TC/ABS should work normally. If not, you've also got a problem with the BPMV. Although you could replace the BPMV yourself, you have to bleed the ABS system which requires Tech II. For those of you like me that don't have access to Tech II, you've got 2 options. Replace the BPMV yourself and tow the car to a shop with Tech II to have it bled, or just take it in to have the BPMV replaced. The advantage is that you've already done all of the trouble shooting so you want have to pay the mechanic to diagnose the problem for you.