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A/C Pressure Switch Question

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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 10:05 AM
  #1  
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Default A/C Pressure Switch Question

Sunday on the way to Starbucks a very loud pop came from the engine bay area and NO MORE COLD AIR from the A/C. But the controls worked and air was still blowing out the vents.

A friend said to check the Pressure Switch due to them being common for blowing before the hose would. How do I check it to find out if it is bad or not?

And where is it located?

Thanks
Ray
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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I believe we'd have to hook the lowside up to a gauge to see how much pressure is in there. If there's enough pressure then you likely have a blown pressure switch. If there isn't a lot of pressure in there then you are just low on 134a and need to add some and the pressure switch is functioning correctly.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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The car was blowing Ice prior to the loud pop on Sunday. It would freeze someone with it even on low so something had to have happened to allow the freeon just go away.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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Your pressure switch is right behind your low side valve. It is just off of your coloant overflow tank. You will know it because it is screwed into the a/c line and has wires coming out of it.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Theres no way to test a pressure switch because it a transistorized sensor rather than a switch. You can remove the connector and unscrew the switch off the line and replace it with a new one. Theres a schrader valve under the switch that allows you to remove the switch without having to depressurize the system. If you have actually lost freon, it due to the over pressure relief valve thats located on the BACK of the compressor. I have NEVER heard of that pressure switch blowing up or popping!

If that switch was bad or not working, you should have DTC in the DIC. Read and post the DTC.

BC
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Theres no way to test a pressure switch because it a transistorized sensor rather than a switch. You can remove the connector and unscrew the switch off the line and replace it with a new one. Theres a schrader valve under the switch that allows you to remove the switch without having to depressurize the system. If you have actually lost freon, it due to the over pressure relief valve thats located on the BACK of the compressor. I have NEVER heard of that pressure switch blowing up or popping!

If that switch was bad or not working, you should have DTC in the DIC. Read and post the DTC.

BC
I have never heard of a LP switch "blowing up" either. I wonder if a line blew and dumped the freon and he just hasn't found it yet.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
I have never heard of a LP switch "blowing up" either. I wonder if a line blew and dumped the freon and he just hasn't found it yet.
I am going to look at the system tonight for the first time. My first thought was the pressure line.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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Default loud pop

Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
I have never heard of a LP switch "blowing up" either. I wonder if a line blew and dumped the freon and he just hasn't found it yet.
I too heard a loud pop under the hood of my 2007 Z06 last fall while it was in the garage but it was too cool to be running A/C so I never connected the two together. My problem may now be twofold. First, it has just gotten warm enough here to use A/C but yesterday I found evidence of a leak on the condenser core that appears to be from a rock impact (yellowish stain spreading outward and downward which originates around a small ding/cut in one of the lower channels) which I have now touched with a TIG welder to seal. I am attempting to see how well my weld is holding before taking it to a shop to be vacuumed and charged properly but the A/C compressor will not engage and the system will not take any freon. Was the source of the pop in the previous post ever resolved?

BTW, when that loud pop was heard, there was no evidence of this core leak, at least there was no telltale on the floor of the garage where it was parked. This stuff looks like it would have made a huge mess wherever it leaked out if it happened when stationary as was the case when the pop was heard.

Last edited by MonroviaKnight; Mar 30, 2014 at 03:02 PM.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 07:27 PM
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Better hope it wasn't the compressor, last week I went to turn on the ac in my 2000 c5 vert and was blowing warm air ( I had the system filled a month earlier) with my luck it ended up being the compressor and cost me $950 installed for a new gm one. So pray to the Vette Gods that it is an easy/cheap fix
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Old May 17, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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Default Compressor problem

Originally Posted by devilredc5
Better hope it wasn't the compressor, last week I went to turn on the ac in my 2000 c5 vert and was blowing warm air ( I had the system filled a month earlier) with my luck it ended up being the compressor and cost me $950 installed for a new gm one. So pray to the Vette Gods that it is an easy/cheap fix
How do you know if it is the compressor? I managed to bypass the relays that control the clutch and the compressor came on. I had it charged at Firestone but they said there was a small leak somewhere and it dropped below the cutoff point again about 3 days later. I was in the process of adding a can of refrigerant with a leak detector in it when all of a sudden I heard a loud pop and freon came out the back of the compressor in a big rush. Is there some sort of pop off valve down there and does it reset or is it a one shot deal?
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Old May 17, 2014 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
I have never heard of a LP switch "blowing up" either. I wonder if a line blew and dumped the freon and he just hasn't found it yet.
the easiest way to find your answer would be to hook up a set of gauges. If anything blew, the pressure will be "0". If that's the case, add some freon. It should be easy to hear/see where it's leaking.
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Old May 18, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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Marty is SPOT ON in his recommendation for gages!!

Sounds like you may have a clogged orifice restriction tube. The suction side is going LOW and the high side is trying to overcome the clogged tube. When you added MORE R134, the pressure became too great blew the pressure relief valve.

Thats,,,,, why the LOW pressure cut off is used. To protect the system.

If I were you, I would STOP what your doing and get professional help. What ever you do,,, MAKE SURE that who ever repairs it, puts back in the OIL that blew out with the R-134.

Bill
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