Looking to see if any of my fellow C5 98 folks have had this issue and what was the fix?????.........I program my remotes, they both work while I stand there, lock trunk, alarm everything............I walk away, return minutes later and will not work...........It's dropping the code I guess but it happens with both of them..............I have replaced the batteries twice, from the dealer.........Any ideas.............

Thanks in advance for any help.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Have a great evening..........

 

A friend of mine had the same issue with his 99. We tried reprogramming several times and even replacing the battery. The only fix we found was to replace the remote altogether.

 

My 98 is doing the same thing (but I have only one remote). Now the security light on the DIC won't go off.
I was thinking of cleaning the grounds like an earlier post suggests for bizzare electrical problems.
Possibly an exorcism if that doesn't work.

 

Mine is a 98 as well. I have the same problem except that mine will work one time, the next when I return to the car, it won't work. It's an intermittent thing I guess. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have not done anything for it or looked into the solution yet though. Sorry I don't have any real fix for you.

 

I am having the same problem with my 98. Looking for answers also.

 

I had the same problem with mine -99. Found some bad soldering joints on the PCB in the remote FOB. After re-soldering these its just became a intermittent problem instead, the FOB still had to be reprogram about every second week. About 6 months later i replaced the battery in the car, and surprisingly my key FOB as well as my RF tire pressure sensor, which had been dead for a long time, has worked every since!! I can't really explain why - but I'm satisfied that the two strange intermittent problems disappeared after I changed the battery! And yes, I had already cleaned the grounding points as well as the battery connections, but this didn't solve the problem for me.

 

PCB...printed circuit board? What joints? Can't be any harder than the climate control repair. May be worth a look see.

However, judging by the others with the same unsolved problem, exorcism is beginning to look more promising.

 

I don't remember exactly which soldering joints it was, I used a microscope to inspect all and then re-solder those I found to be poor.

 

Try this Y'all.
After checking for snug battery contacts, check the tabs on the circuit board that make contact with the battery tabs - two little gold squares, I think. Polish them with a pencil eraser or contact cleaner, reasseble and tell me how you made out.

 

Both my remotes DIED. First would be able to resync with lock and unlock but then go out of sync. If car battery voltage drops below about 9.5 volts you can loose the RKE and the TPMs. In my case got some used ones on fleebay and retrained the car. No problems since.
For a 97-00 you need a remote with FCCID AB00216T. Either passive or not will work. A non passive won't give ou passive fn on a 97-99 (A PITA anyway) but will work. A passive fob won't do the passive fn on an 00. Keep the switch off so it doesn't waste the fob battery as it turns on by motion. BIGHANK

 

Well CENZO, tried your suggestion and no change. Do really appreciate the suggestion though.
I'd love to try to solder loose connections but can't see the joints well enough and don't have a microscope.
Thinking a new fob is in order.

 

I had this issue with mine. I popped it apart and started putting light pressure on the components and one of the had a bad solder joint and pretty much fell off the pc board. Resoldered it and the fob has worked like new for the past couple years.

It was the little black job at the top right of the remote with 4 contacts.

-Rich

 

My "older" (more used) FOB quit working so I replaced the battery. Now it is forgetting the code like has been mentioned. You reprogram it and it works for a while, then quits. The "newer" one works fine. Actually both are the same age but I used one for years (the "old" one) and kept the other in a drawer.

Even if I could get the "old" one working it would be nice to have a brand new one cause the printing is completely worn off the buttons.

Where can I get a new FOB cheap?

 

FOBs do fail. They fail for numerous reasons. Sometimes you can examine the PC Board and you will find poor solder joints, or dirty corroded contacts. I hate Delphi stuff! You can get a good deal from Gene Culley at GMPARTSHOUSE.COM

As for causes of FOBs dropping sync, here is what I have done to eliminate that issue successfully:

The security light remaining on is a sure sign of an under hood ground issue. Been there! Clean ALL of the under hood ground connectors and frame contact points. See my IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION sticky.

Bad grounds can also cause the FOBs to have issues. Check Ground G-104.

One of the main culprits of FOB Sync loss is the 12 VDC battery. Believe me or NOT, if the battery is marginal and doesn't hold a proper charge, you will loose sync. It happens when you start you car and the battery voltage goes low. If the battery is unable to keep the voltage above the module cut off voltages during cranking, it will loose sync. A very good indicator of this issue are tons of U series DTC's

My 98 had all of the same issues. Cleaned the grounds, replaced the battery (5 year old DELCO) and issues solved! If you have ever left radio playing for a short period of time while you were working on the car and the car had problems starting or wouldn't start afterward, your battery is BAD!

Hope this helps!

BC

 

Thanks BC. One question, where is ground G-104?
By the way. Thanks to EVERYONE for the responses and suggestions!
Wish one would have worked, now have to look at BC's ideas.
Will let you know.
GM Bob

 

I went to Gene's but can't find the FOB in the parts to save my life. What does FOB stand for anyway? I tried a search but it comes back with Geo parts???

 

Bill has some pics here that will help.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=fichtners

 

Some people have had problems with battery grounds and problems with FOB's. Here is a picture of the chassis ground for the FOB receiver circuit that you need to check. It is G-104 and it is on the passengers frame rail, just outboard of the battery. It is an "EYELET type of ground. It will be under one of the plastic tabs for the battery souround. It is also the circuit that provides battery ground to the chassis for ALL the other circuits!




Make sure that you clean the threads on the stud and use lots of PB Blaster or WD-40.


BC

 

BC awesome pic! Made it so easy to find could even do it after a trip to the Pub. Been wicked busy however, and will check this in the next couple of days and let you know. Will also check the battery charge state and starting draw. Been thinking it's got to be the car battery or the ground.

Lakedude. check here.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1807570

Gene listed FOBs on this post pretty reasonable I think. If I decide I need one I'm giving him a call. The price is just a little more than the used ones I've seen on "E BUY" and his are BRAND NEW OEM.

 

Well, finally had a few minutes which of course turned into a couple of hours worth of work.

1st took apart, or more aptly broke the ground taking it apart to clean it as suggested by BC. It was clean by the way
no ground trouble there, but was worth a look see. Thanks anyway BC.
2nd checked the battery it holds 14.28 volts after sitting for a few days.
3rd back to back crack/start sessions revealed a voltage drop to 11.55 volts each time.

OK next thing to try new FOB or exorcism?
Maybe I'll just canabalize the FOB and re-solder everything. Just too cheap to fork out $90.00 for a new FOB.

Then of course, just this morning clutch went #%&@#$ and is leaking oil on the ground.
"If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all, gloom despair and agony on me". HEE HAW! circa 1970's

Where is that thread on master and slave cylinders, and just how much beer do I have in the fridge??????