When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have the charging system checked. Sears will do it for free. They test the battery and the alternator to see which is not giving the proper voltage. Then tell them thanks and have your shop of choice or you do the work.
Have the charging system checked. Sears will do it for free. They test the battery and the alternator to see which is not giving the proper voltage. Then tell them thanks and have your shop of choice or you do the work.
Can't really take it to the garage as it's not streetable in it's current condition.
All of the body panels are loose, one fender is off, the interior is gutted and it needs to be inspected.
The battery was replaced with Red Top about a year ago. The car can run for hours at a time, it's just getting low charging juice.
Ok, then you can take the alternator and battery to Autozone, they have bench testers. BTW the redtops are not all they are cracked up to be.
Yes, I know that the Optima Batteries have a pretty high failure rate. My previous yellow top crapped me out on me, however I really buy them for their design (leakage) onto the wiring under neath.
I have testers, I was hoping for a more technical response as to what may be the problem and if there are any cures.
I am pretty good at the electrical stuff from my days in the service where I use work on electronics.
I'm thinking the diode may have went as it does not make increasing power even when I rev up the motor.
Yes, I know that the Optima Batteries have a pretty high failure rate. My previous yellow top crapped me out on me, however I really buy them for their design (leakage) onto the wiring under neath.
I have testers, I was hoping for a more technical response as to what may be the problem and if there are any cures.
I am pretty good at the electrical stuff from my days in the service where I use work on electronics.
I'm thinking the diode may have went as it does not make increasing power even when I rev up the motor.
The GM alternator has a voltage rugulator on it ... once the alternator is producing about 14 volts, the regulator won't let it produce a higher voltage no matter how fast it spins. If the diode goes, you should get zero voltage out of the regulator as it is the diode that turns the alternating current (AC) output of an alteernator to direct current (DC) as used in a car.
The GM alternator has a voltage rugulator on it ... once the alternator is producing about 14 volts, the regulator won't let it produce a higher voltage no matter how fast it spins. If the diode goes, you should get zero voltage out of the regulator as it is the diode that turns the alternating current (AC) output of an alteernator to direct current (DC) as used in a car.
Thanks for the info.
I went out and checked the battery and the alternator with a multimeter.
- The battery has a static 12.5V with the ignition off.
- With the ignition (motor running) both the battery and alternator are running between 14V - 14.5V.
Ok, then you can take the alternator and battery to Autozone, they have bench testers. BTW the redtops are not all they are cracked up to be.
Good idea. Advance Auto will do the same also. Seems like in the long run it would save some time and heartburn. Took my battery in and had it checked day before yesterday. Took the machine about 7 minutes before we got the message "Bury Me". So I did.
I went out and checked the battery and the alternator with a multimeter.
- The battery has a static 12.5V with the ignition off.
- With the ignition (motor running) both the battery and alternator are running between 14V - 14.5V.
I think I have a bad gauge.
May not be the gauge .... does it "sweep" with the other gauges when you turn the key to the ON position (don't start engine) ?? Set your DIC to display (GAGES BUTTON) Battery Volts and see if the gauge and the DIC readings agree.
If they agree, the problem is a wiring issue, if they disagree then it probably is the gauge.
If the DIC is showing lower voltage than your multimeter, check the following ...
The voltage shown is fed to the IPC from Fuse 19 (10 Amp) in the Instrument Panel fuse block. Check that the fuse is clean and put in a new one if you have doubts.
Check the IPC grounds. The ground is through Splice Pack SP208 to ground point G104 which is located in the engine compartment, on the frame rail almost directly below the battery.
Read Bill Curlee's EXCELLENT sticky at the top of the C5 TECH forum about electrical issues. You'll see info on the splice packs and grounding system. It is quite likely the splice pack has corrosion inside it and that may be why you're seeing such strange voltage readings.
Interesting topic......I have always had the same problem with my '98. I can hook a voltmeter to the alt and battery and it says 14-14.6 but my guage only reads 12.7 volts.
I'll check my grounds also and see if that fixes it.