Sometimes my headlights turn on but do not pop up. I have them set to turn on with twilight sentinal so I never use the switch. If I go to options and turn off twilight sentinal and then turn it back on the headlights will always pop up. Any ideas of what is going wrong here?

The other problem may or not be related. Sometimes when I turn the key to start it nothing happens. If I do it enough times it will eventually start. I tried a different key in suspicion that it might be the resistor but that one does it too.

 

You haven't filled out your profile so I dont know what Vette you have

Is it an older model with an OEM battery? If so, it could be your battery on the way out. Thats where I'd start.

If the battery's good I'd leave TS turned off and see if the problem is still there on manual headlights. If so, it may be the turn switch. With TS engaged it should cut out the stalk switch from the process.

 

Battery is an almost new gel cell.

 

ttt

 

I have the exact same issue and I'm too lazy to fix it. I know EXACTLY where your coming from. Yep,,,one day, its going to strand me. Good thing it a manual! If I twist the key a couple of times rapidly, it will "usually" start.

Here are the possible problem areas in order of which you should investigate:

Battery connections. Must be clean, tight and the cable bolts MUST BE torqued to 11 ft/lbs.

Clutch Safety Switch. (if you have a manual) press the clutch fully to the floor and then let it up 2". Listen in the passengers foot well for a relay clicking. If you hear the relay, the switch is most likely working.

Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) Thats the relay in the passengers foot well that the clutch switch makes click. The TDR is the actual relay that is connected to the starter solenoid that makes the starter solenoid work. If it clicks , the high current contacts inside the relay could also be burnt and not allow the high current necessary for the solenoid to work through. That would prevent the starter solenoid from making contact and operate and spin the starter until until the contacts inside the relay heats up enough to allow the solenoid to work.
You can access the TDR relay in the passengers foot well behind the toe board. Its above the BCM. It has FOUR wires: a fat RED, fat PURPLE, a yellow and a yellow/black wire. The fat red is 12 VDC and the purple wire is the wire going to the starter solenoid. The relay is inexpensive and a good place to start! Thats what I think is going bad on my car.

Loose starter connections. VERY COMMON ISSUE!!! Loose wires on the starter and solenoid will cause this issue! If there loose, it will eventually cause the wire and solenoid to burn up! (get crispy) Then it will FAIL!

Starter solenoid. If the TDR isn't bad, then the solenoid is probably bad If it fails to start and trying the ignition switch a few times doesn't work and your stuck, whack the starter with a hammer or a wrench.

Starter. If the brushes inside the starter are worn or the commentator ring is corroded or burnt, the same mechanical agitation will also alleviate that issue (temporarily)

Bill C

 

I'll add my two cents worth about the headlamps...the headlamp control module needs replacing. The two issues are most likely seperate. Bill's post has lots of good info for the starter issue.

 

I had the exact same problem in my 2001. I had the battery checked and it was on it's way to leaving me stranded somewhere. I replaced it with new one and no more headlight problems or starting issues.
Since your battery is fairly new, you might check your connections.

Joe B.

 

Mine was doing the same thing, but I tested the battery with the dealers special batt tester and it said battery needed replaced. The car started everytime, so I was not really wanting to change the battery. Finally after retesting again a month later the results were the same.

Finally I changed the battery with a NAPA Orbital (Same as Optima but all black, OEM look) and all my problems gone away.

They use this tester



http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...TMCR500XL.HTML

 

You need to get your battery checked. You can do a rough check with a voltmeter, a 12-volt battery will measure at about 12.9 volts when it’s fully charged and about 11.4 volts when it is fully discharged.

To do a real test, you must do a load test. Almost any place that sells batteries will do it for free. Take the car back to where you bought the battery for testing.

It is not unusual for new AGM batteries to go bad.

 

Holy Moly, that is one EXPENSIVE battery tester ! $719

I have seen battery load testers for $20 !

 

That is what they use at the dealer, it works perfectly, way better than any other battery tester.