Header Crushed in, Help
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I've seen it done before!
Pull the pipe away from the header collector, now you'll need to find a Metal Ball Bearing around the size of the pipe (Smaller preferably - so that it will roll back out and not get stuck!)
You can even use three or four different ones (In small form to bunch in the crushed section to unfold it, as they will roll aruond as you hit them)
You could also use a large one behind them to do the hitting on or to push the smaller ones up there! (If you know what I mean!)
You will need to use a metal rod of your choice and a hammer to hit on the ball bearings to push them through the crushed section!
They will role out since they are smaller in size!
It has been done before and you should be able to do it yourself or with a buddies help - I helps to have someone there just to help alleviate some frustration and to help with some of the pounding!
I hope this helps!

Thanks,Matt
I've seen it done before!
Pull the pipe away from the header collector, now you'll need to find a Metal Ball Bearing around the size of the pipe (Smaller preferably - so that it will roll back out and not get stuck!)
You can even use three or four different ones (In small form to bunch in the crushed section to unfold it, as they will roll aruond as you hit them)
You could also use a large one behind them to do the hitting on or to push the smaller ones up there! (If you know what I mean!)
You will need to use a metal rod of your choice and a hammer to hit on the ball bearings to push them through the crushed section!
They will role out since they are smaller in size!
It has been done before and you should be able to do it yourself or with a buddies help - I helps to have someone there just to help alleviate some frustration and to help with some of the pounding!
Maybe a ball bearing from a ship's propeller shaft ?????
Also, to apply enough force to "undent" the headers will more likely either break welds, or damage the header to head interface. I certainly wouldn't try it while the headers are attached to the engine ..... MAYBE while on a work bench ....
Bottom line ... replace the headers .....
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A local welder cut out the dented area and replaced it with a "patch" made from a section of similar tubing. LG's input sounds like good advice...
Any good muff shop could cut out the mashed parts and weld in new pieces, since the headers are not coated. Had it done on my old 56 Vette.
Header off of the car.
Heat the tube
1 large ball bearing diameter = tube ID - ~3/16"
If you use a ball bearing slightly smaller than the original tube ID you can roll it out the head side when you are done.
Let me know how you come out
LS1 headers would work well if you can find a ball bearing to work. I'd go so far as to heat the pipe BEFORE putting the ball bearing through there the first time so it wouldnt fight you do much then run it through once more after it cooled down and contracted. That was a trick we used to do on TPI runners.... damn things were easy to ding and dent if you dropped one or hit it too hard with a ratchet.
The ball bearing thing works GREAT. Just make sure the ***** will roll out the other end. Depending on the fit, some headers are old enough deposits can make the ***** get stuck. And some have a slightly different shape at the flange end where the ball wont be able to come out. So try first on the engine side if you are pounding from the collector side. Which reminds me. The welding a rod to the ball thing would work if you didnt have that angle on the end of the pipe... and if you were going to cut the pipe, the turbulence from patching the hole to pound the ***** (sounds bad, doesnt it) would make me go to the nail welder idea. You would need enough ball bearings to push into the primary past the dent.
The nail welder idea works ok... but you wont get the dent out perfectly and that primary will get a little turbulent before going into the collector. Depends on how good a job the guy does. It might lose a couple HP but it's alot cheaper than a new set of headers. Besides, does anyone carry nails for a nail welder for welding to stainless?
Best thing...if you can find someone that can weld stainless pipe like that, DO IT. In my experience pipe is hard to weld since it's easy to burn through and stainless was harder and takes a special kind of rod. Gotta remember, how are they going to get to the back of the tube? If they can do it and do it well that would be the best bet, but if they arent 100% sure, I'd pass... an exhaust leak on the inside end of a primary tube will drive you CRAZY. On an expensive header like that I would send them back to LG if you wanted to do that.
Just some ideas to help you with your decision.
now lets quit talking about pipes and ***** lol
Last edited by dhirocz; Sep 20, 2007 at 05:24 PM.

















