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can anyone tell me where i can find a good how to on swapping heads only without the cam?
I want to do this myself and i dont want to remove a lot of parts that i dont have to.
Why would you go through all the effort of swapping heads without putting in a good cam to take advantage of the higher airflow?
x 10
Unless you already have an aftermarket cam. If you are concerned about idle and driveability, you can still install a very small cam while you are in there for $350, and you will be looking at a good 30 more whp. You'd be better off doing a cam-only as opposed to heads only in my opinion.
x 10
Unless you already have an aftermarket cam. If you are concerned about idle and driveability, you can still install a very small cam while you are in there for $350, and you will be looking at a good 30 more whp. You'd be better off doing a cam-only as opposed to heads only in my opinion.
What is considered a small cam vs a medium or big cam? Example:224/226 .581 @ 114 would be a small cam? Medium cam?
I don't know, it has been demonstrated several times that a set of AFR's correctly setup will net over 40 rwhp with the stock cam keeping emissions and all other things in balance. If you consider what we all pay for headers and a tune, that's a pretty darn good trade-off in my book.
Why would you go through all the effort of swapping heads without putting in a good cam to take advantage of the higher airflow?
I did mine because I broke a valve spring. Also, you don't have to pull the engine to swap the heads... If you do the cam, on a C5, it's a great deal more trouble. Think radiator, steering rack, front suspension, PS plumbing.
I don't know, it has been demonstrated several times that a set of AFR's correctly setup will net over 40 rwhp with the stock cam keeping emissions and all other things in balance. If you consider what we all pay for headers and a tune, that's a pretty darn good trade-off in my book.
I was quite happy with just doing some CNC LS6 heads on my old LS1, gave a good bump (better than the long tubes I put on). As a matter of fact I miss that engine. I'm now running a LS6 with similar heads and a big cam and the power dif is not that great (about +20tq) for the driveability issues. Some of that is tune issues that I'm still having to sort out, but I did not tune my LS1 with the new heads and it was great... IMO heads only for a novice is a good choice, less work, less tune issues, and a decent gain. Sure a cam would add power, but...
What is considered a small cam vs a medium or big cam? Example:224/226 .581 @ 114 would be a small cam? Medium cam?
It really depends on who you ask. Some people would call my 224/224 a small cam. I guess a few years ago, it was considered fairly big. But with tuning as good as it is now, I'd call it a middle-of-the-road cam. It's just about as big as I'd like, though. It definitely has more rough mannerisms than stock, but it's not obnoxious...
Originally Posted by vettenuts
I don't know, it has been demonstrated several times that a set of AFR's correctly setup will net over 40 rwhp with the stock cam keeping emissions and all other things in balance. If you consider what we all pay for headers and a tune, that's a pretty darn good trade-off in my book.
I liked the idea of AFR's only, but when I asked on this forum, everybody poo-poo'd the writeup on chevy high tech performance about the AFR's; the one where they took a bone stock C5 and got 40whp from adding AFR's. They convinced me I wouldn't get that stout of an increase, and that if I was going to do the AFR's, I might as well put in a baby cam that doesn't require longtubes to get better #'s.
I have since found two or three installations with the same results so it is not out of the question I don't think. For guys in CA what have very strict emissions, this may be the ticket since the AFR's are CARB EO as well.
Fwiw, with the current tuning capabilities available to us, most people would consider that chart to be very conservative. Just consider anything 240+ with over .600 lift to be extreme. With a good tuner, anything less than that can be made to work well for a daily driver.
I wouldn't rule out doing just a head swap and leaving the stock cam in place. It's for sure a lot less work and worthwhile for power gains. Not being forced to do tuning is a big plus as well.
I m doing exactly the opposite, a cam but no heads, I want to do heads just can't find any locally, i want some ported 5.3s for my cam 224/228 , 589/601, 114
Fwiw, with the current tuning capabilities available to us, most people would consider that chart to be very conservative. Just consider anything 240+ with over .600 lift to be extreme. With a good tuner, anything less than that can be made to work well for a daily driver.
I wouldn't rule out doing just a head swap and leaving the stock cam in place. It's for sure a lot less work and worthwhile for power gains. Not being forced to do tuning is a big plus as well.
Dan
Your probably right but for those in California like myself, I'm told going over 224ish is pretty close to about as high as you want to go and still pass smog
I have however been told its possible you can go with higher CAM numbers and still pass smog if you tune it right since the CAM is only one piece of the smog puzzle but have not verified this yet by anyone who knows for sure.
I m doing exactly the opposite, a cam but no heads, I want to do heads just can't find any locally, i want some ported 5.3s for my cam 224/228 , 589/601, 114
This sounds very close to what I want to put on Let me know how that turns out
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