PROFESSIONAL Painter - Millenium Yellow Advice Needed
The OEM paint NEVER did this and the remaining OEM paint still doesn't.
Any ideas what they did wrong? Maybe they didn't mix or apply the tinted clearcoat properly? I can't imagine it's coming from the base coat below the clear?
I'm not talking a little hint of yellow on the applicator, but turns a white cotton applicator a STRONG shade of yellow in just a couple body panels. They say they used Sherwin Williams paint.
I'm pretty sure I'll have a battle with the shop and need help being educated to call bull***t. I am hoping when they say "not to worry" I can tell them I am worried because it's wrong. It's wrong because they _____________ (fill in the blank please).
What do they need to do? Repaint the car including base coat? Just respray the tinted clear?
TIA.
Rick
Last edited by rikhek; Oct 12, 2007 at 09:52 PM.
I've had a horrendous time getting any shop to properly match MY. As a result my car is 4 shades... and being pickey and a former adjuster trained to spot defects it bugs the hell out of me to the point I'm getting my whole car painted this winter.
The proper way to paint MY is as a 3-stage:
1. White base primer
2. Yellow tint coat
*the yellow is very transluscent and it takes a few coats to turn the car the right color yellow
3. Clear coat... the clear is not supposed to be tinted.
That is how it is painted at hte factory. The color is evil to math because first off the yellow tint coat must be the right shade of yellow, and second the painter must apply the right amount, because it's really just tinting the white base coat into yellow if that makes sense.
CHeck your rock chips on an oem painted panel, you should see white showing through.
with Cobra4B. They did not use a base coat/clear coat on your car. There is absolutely no way for the base coat to "come through" the clear coat. And the clear coat is just that, clear, it has no tint in it at all. The only way to get paint color on your rag is if they used a single stage paint, which is just color. Single stage is usually cheaper than two stage.
I've had a horrendous time getting any shop to properly match MY. As a result my car is 4 shades... and being pickey and a former adjuster trained to spot defects it bugs the hell out of me to the point I'm getting my whole car painted this winter.
The proper way to paint MY is as a 3-stage:
1. White base primer
2. Yellow tint coat
*the yellow is very transluscent and it takes a few coats to turn the car the right color yellow
3. Clear coat... the clear is not supposed to be tinted.
That is how it is painted at hte factory. The color is evil to math because first off the yellow tint coat must be the right shade of yellow, and second the painter must apply the right amount, because it's really just tinting the white base coat into yellow if that makes sense.
CHeck your rock chips on an oem painted panel, you should see white showing through.
I fear the only way to correct the problem and not have a multi-hued car is to start with a white base coat and lay up the multiple coats of MY as the factory did. My gut hunch is if the shop short-cutted you on the repair that the sun won't shine on the day they will stand behind the job and make it right.
Charlie
There are spots like the very bottom of the new front bumper cover where the yellow is thin and the black shows through. NO WHITE.
I have no idea how to approach them/present my case to get resolution.
Rick
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
First, did the paint shop use a DuPont paint? That is what GM uses at the Bowling Green Assembly plant. Use of a DuPont paint means color matching is much more likely as the same color provided to GM is provided to the paint shop. To show GM uses the DuPont paints, go to:
http://www.bowlinggreenassemblyplant.com/
Press ENTER ... select PLANT INFO ... then PLANT FACTS SHEET ... read the sheet and you'll see they specifically state they use DuPont paints.
Second, there are two ways to paint Millenium Yellow on a Corvette. One way is the way the plant does it ... three "coats" ... Primer ... Base Color .....TINTED Clearcoat (it really does have MY tint in it). The other way is the way body shops do it ... referred to as a tri-coat paint job .... Primer .... Base Color .... TINTED Clearcoat .... Clearcoat.
For more info on DuPont paints go to .....
http://www2.dupont.com/Automotive/en...cExterior.html
From what I understand the main reasons for the difference between the factory method and body shop method is that the factory process uses water based paints and uses a much higher bake temperature (250 degrees) than a paint shop that uses solvent based paints and lower bake temperatures (120 degrees)
Bottom line ... sounds like the paint shop you went to did a VERY POOR paint job. There is NO WAY you should see the black of the SMC panels through the paint. Sounds like they skipped the primer coat, went straight to the base color coat, and then in an attempt to color match/hide the bad base color did two tinted coats, with insufficient curing of the paint so it is coming off when you wax the car.
I'd go to a REPUTABLE body shop in your area and get an estimate to repaint the ENTIRE car ... then go to the original shop and tell them they can either repaint the car properly at no additional charge to you, or you will consider legal action to both recover what you paid them PLUS have them pay for the new paint job at the shop where you got the estimate.
Good luck,
Last edited by BlackZ06; Oct 14, 2007 at 04:14 AM.
Charlie
I did not let this rest. I've had several meetings with the body shop to "work" this issue. Finally met today with 2 representatives from Sherwin Williams and the body shop.
Body shop owner stated the man who painted the car is no longer an employee. He stated to the reps and myself he remembers the painter complained he was having a hell of a time getting coverage with the yellow. The owner believes he added tint to the clear coat to get it the right color. As a result this, is several of you have stated, is where the color is coming onto my "rag". They ALL stated this is "not really right, however, it is not a problem".
I disagreed and said I was not willing to "live" with the situation. After pushing the issue they have agreed to repaint the entire car at no cost to me!
Just scuffing and applying a clear-clear coat was discussed. All stated this would be a half assed fix as they would probably burn through the base and get thin in other areas during the scuffing.
It was agreed the right fix is to repaint the entire car. The body shop owner pressured the Sherwin Williams reps to agree to let him utilize "coverage credits" which I guess they issue and he accumulates for issues such as this. They agreed and will pick up the tab.
They told me they're going to pull all the body panels and do it right. I didn't think it would play out this way. Credit to the shop for working to satisfy me. They could have taken a hard line approach but didn't.
Long, pain in the *** process, however, I'm getting it repainted at no cost to me. I'm thrilled.
Thanks to all who provided advice.
Rick
Charlie
Charlie
Sometimes these things happen with a bad employee and the owner gets stuck. Sounds like owner is a good guy and S/W also.
Good job all around to you on getting it right and the follow up for us. Many times we never know the end result of these things.















