So I turned to the United States after 3 months out- if u r interested I got some pics of a Russian Nuclear Sub sitting in Sevastopol Ukraine harbor. So i went to start my 98 C5 and absolutely dead- now mind you I had JUST put in a repaired IPC (my DIC switch was cycling) anyway so I get the charger- and attach it to the terminal and plug it in and my headlight motor is clicking so as if to open the headlights???- so i go to see if the headlight switch was on and no (kids in the house when I was gone- so anything is possible)- then i put the key in and turn to on and the BCM starts to make a sound similar to well putting water in hot oil on the stove...yeah i am freaking out... ANY ideas on this one???

 

What language is this? Sounds like your battery may be TOAST.

 

DISCONNECT the battery and charg it. Undervoltage can caus all that you expierenced.

I would like to see those pictures!!!!!!

Bill

 

thx for the speedy replies guys. I am not sure if i can post pics of sub oh and the vid of the Mig(s) on this site.
I am charging the battery slowly now as we speak...tomorrow i hope all is well but i doubt it.
I do not think the battery is toast as for the previous year there was never any sign of a battery problem.
Bill- you have/had my email but it has been a long time since we emailed each other. Sevastopol...well it is in Ukraine but for every 1 Ukrainian flag there are about 10 Russian flags...they refer to it there in the Crimea as a Heroes City...the monuments are BEAUTIFUL and they treat their Veterans with absolute respect.... I have my dad with me who is 90 so I understand the connections between what they and my dad did and our way of life...it is so easy to see...my dad was in the 434 (i think...sorry) and they got resorbed by the 36th out of San Antonio.....541 days of active combat and he survived 3 beach heads...yup got tears in my eyes...as i should. his name is Morton...they referred to him as Morty Murphy....i asked him to get medals for ( I hope the day comes when i have my own kids to pass it all on) and he never said he would all he said was- I just needed to get my men home....sound familiar???...the Moderator of the Board may allow this one post I hope but you get the idea.

 

Doug- I my family has been here since 1638 so the language is all 100 percent American....but I have been around the world so sometimes the American is well with some attitude...as it should...Sevastopol is in Ukraine and it is a Russian city...and I speak Russian...a long story

 

Great write up. Thanks for posting.

 

I ran across your excellent C-5 piece on handling No Start Issues. I have another problem. I wonder if you would kindly consider this:

My 98’ Corvette has had an engine stalling problem for at least the last 5 years on which I’ve a lot of time and money. Four different Chevy dealerships have worked on my car and the problem remains. Perhaps someone in the Forum might have a clue for me that all the pros have missed? The problem which occurs intermittently (once in say 10-15 starts):

Turn the ignition on, car starts immediately – after a warm-up, back out of garage, roll five to fifteen feet and the engine quits. Re-start, roll back five to fifteen feet, engine quits. May have to do this 5 times before I exceed that 5 -15 feet, after which the engine runs fine, never even so much coughing subsequently. Problem never occurs while on the road (thankfully) just during that critical ten to fifteen feet.

I’ve developed a “magic” work-around that seems to accelerate the process of re-starting and keeping the engine running: take out the key, turn it upside-down, and reinsert and turn after 10 second delay. That usually reduces the number of re-starts. Also, moving the key in and out of the ignition lock several times also seems to reduce the number of tries for a successful re-start and continuing running.

Some of the work done: Replaced column lock relay, new steering column lock, column lock motor, lock motor relay and harness, installed new body control module, more…

Any ideas?

Many thanks ,

Andy

 

My 2003 50th with M/T won't crank. Here's what I've done so far:
1. Pulled all codes and then ran RESET. the only code that does not go away is DTC B2723H C (PASS-key detection circuit)
2. cleaned the PASS key with alcohol
3. sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the key slot and worked the key in and out many times
STILL NO CRANK
The battery is brand new.
before this issue I ran the car, worked fine.
It sat for about 3 weeks and came out and NO CRANK
put the battery on charge, its fully charged.
When I turn the key to start the accessory lights (Dash lights etc) go out
I have also noticed that when I insert the key in the ignition, the ignition switch won't turn at all until after a number of trys.
HELP
Is it the ignition switch?
the solenoid? (I have not tried hitting it yet as per some suggestions)
Thanks for any help guys.

 

WELL,,,,,,,,,,,,,, DTC B2723H C Theres your problem right there!

The car WILL NOT start if all the security stuff isn't met and that my friend is a PRIMARY part of the equasion...

The ignition switch is THREE parts. The switch, the key cylinder and the key chip reader on the end of the key cylinder. Sounds like you have a defective cylinder and that is preventing the chip reader from properly reading the resister in the key.

I bet the tab that actually contacts the resistor broke off.

You need to order a new key cylinder (it comes with the reader) and have a lock smith re-key the new one to your OEM key.

Once you get that accomplished, give it another try.

While you have the ignition switch out, I recommend cleaning it OR replacing it.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Bill

 

You might get better/more responses starting a new thread. Here is some info that should help.
The BCM supplies a 5 volt signal and a ground circuit for the PASS-Key(R) system. This allows the BCM to detect PASS-Key(R) resistance values. Inserting the PASS-Key(R) (with resistor pellet) in the ignition lock cylinder completes the PASS-Key(R) circuit. Contacts in the ignition lock cylinder mate with the pellet contacts. The BCM compares the resistance value of the key pellet to the valid resistance programmed into the BCM. If the proper resistance value is read, the BCM allows the following functions to occur:
The theft deterrent relay to energize.
The steering column to unlock.
The BCM sends a message through the serial data line to the PCM to allow fuel enable processing to occur. If the resistance value is incorrect, a malfunction is present and a DTC will set.
CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
The voltage level sampled at the BCMs PASS-Key(R) signal circuit is high, signaling that an invalid PASS-Key(R) resistance was detected, and a short to voltage or an open circuit is present.
This condition must be present for 1 second .
ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
Stores a DTC B2723 in the BCM memory.
Sends a message to the IPC to display the SECURITY indicator.
The BCM will disable the theft deterrent relay.
The PCM will not allow fuel enable processing to occur.
Disables sampling of the PASS-Key(R) resistance for a time-out period of 3 minutes .
Does not disarm an armed UTD system
The steering column remains in the locked position.
CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE DTC
This DTC requires an ignition cycle in order to change from current to history.
The BCM detects a valid PASS-Key� resistance value on the PASS-Key(R) signal circuit.
A history DTC will clear after 50 consecutive ignition cycles if the condition for the malfunction is no longer present.
Use the IPC clearing DTCs feature.
Use a scan tool.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction:
There is an intermittent 0 en or short to voltage in the PASS- Key(R) signal or ground circuit.
There are poor connections at the BCM or the ignition switch connector.
The PASS-Key� resistor is open.
The ignition lock cylinder key contacts or the PASS-Key� resistor is dirty or loose.
If the key resistor pellet is incorrect, there will be no BCM outputs to the theft deterrent relay or to the PCM. This state will last about 3 minutes . If a key is inserted, or the ignition is turned ON again before the 3 minute time frame is complete, the timer will reset to 3 minutes . Disconnecting the battery will not clear the timer sequence, but the timer will reset to 3 minutes when the battery power is restored. Even if a proper key is inserted during one of the time periods, the vehicle will not start until the total time period has lapsed.

Clean away any dirt or grease from the key resistor. The foreign substances could interfere with the key detection circuit and set a DTC.
If there is an open or a short to voltage on the PASS-Key(R) signal or ground circuit. The vehicle will exhibit a no crank condition.
Check for any poor connections at the BCM and at the ignition lock cylinder. A poor connection can cause an open, a short, incorrect PASS Key(R) resistance, or an intermittent malfunction. If the DTC is a history DTC, the problem may be intermittent. Perform the tests while moving the related wiring, the connectors, and the key. This can often cause the malfunction to appear. Refer to intermittents and Poor Connections. See: Accessories and Optional Equipment\Antitheft and Alarm Systems\Testing and Inspection\Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview\Intermittents and Poor Connections

 

If you do not have access to a scanner, you can pull the trim panel under the steering column. There will be a small 2 wire connector on the side if the ignition switch. This runs up to the key reader. Unplug it and put your ohmmeter across the 2 terminals on the lock cylinder side. Set the meter to 20,000 ohms. Take your reading. If it reads open circuit, follow Bill's instructions. You can compare the reading to what's posted earlier in this thread.

 

Bill and Marty, thanks a ton for the input. I have read your posts on this topic many times but I needed to get your direct input on this. Since this is my first vette and a novice in dealing with electrical issues, I will need to proceed with caution in tackling the test suggested by Marty and the steps Bill outlines in his previous posts for replacing the key cylinder.
Net, net, thanks again.
Will report back on my progress.
Later

 

Bill:
I'm working to replace the key cylinder. I have all panels off per your instructions and the ignition switch is exposed and the key bezel is off. However, the key will not turn to the "on" position in order to remove the key cylinder. I've tried many repetitions to get it to turn--but no turn. Is there any way to get the key cylinder out without going to the "on" position??
Also, where exactly is the tab to release the key cylinder?
Help!

 

If the key will NOT turn in the lock cylinder,, you have no other option other than CAREFULLY cut the plastic switch case and extract the lock cylinder. You can try and remove the entire lock/switch and see if you can bang it on a solid surface and disloge the foreign object that is preventing it from rotating.

Then you have to purchase a new switch and take the cylinder to a locksmith and have him repair it. Most people have to purchase a new one and rekey it

Most of the time the key chip reader/Sensor breaks and damages the lock. If thats the case,, you have to order a new lock cylinder/chip sensor. You will need to take the old cylinder and the new one to the locksmith so he can make the new one match your key.

Bill

 

Bill, hope this gets to you.
You were right. the lock cylinder was broken. Took old switch/cylinder and new cylinder to locksmith. They got the old cylinder out as it would not turn, and installed new and keyed it to my key.
I then installed the switch/cylinder into the car.
Question: at this point can I hook up the battery and test start the car to see if new cylinder works without putting everything else back together (i.e. knee cover and console etc.)? thanks.

 

YES!! The ONLY security part of the whole thing is the key chip and the chip reader. If the reader is hooked up,, you should be fine.

BC

 

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee;1588669547]YES!! The ONLY security part of the whole thing is the key chip and the chip reader. If the reader is hooked up,, you should be fine.
My C5 50th Anniversary started right up and all panels, interior pieces and electrical components are back together.
All together I paid $60.77 for the new AC Delco lock cylinder from Amazon (free shipping) and $61 to the locksmith to remove the broken lock cylinder, put in the new one and to key it to my key.
Thank you very much for your help. I couldn't have done this without your and Forums help.
Pete
Menomonie, WI