? on removing steering rack
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: monroe city mo
? on removing steering rack
Im going to try to remove the steering rack this weekend to put the balancer back where it goes.I have done some reading on here about how to do it.One of the how tos i have read says to make sure the steering wheel is locked in the straight ahead position,is this necessary?The problem with this is, my column wont lock.Please tell me this isnt true.
Race Director
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From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
The reason is just to not screw up the steering position sensor when reassembling. Have the wheels pointed straight, and the steering wheel pointed straight when unbolting the steering shaft, and insure that both are like that when reassembling.
The real important part is to make sure you don't spin the steering wheel while things are disconnected. Even a string or bungee cord around the steering wheel to the shifter or brake handle will suffice.
The only goal is to make sure you reconnect it in the same position as you unbolted it, and not 180* (or worse) off.
The real important part is to make sure you don't spin the steering wheel while things are disconnected. Even a string or bungee cord around the steering wheel to the shifter or brake handle will suffice.
The only goal is to make sure you reconnect it in the same position as you unbolted it, and not 180* (or worse) off.
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The reason is just to not screw up the steering position sensor when reassembling. Have the wheels pointed straight, and the steering wheel pointed straight when unbolting the steering shaft, and insure that both are like that when reassembling.
The real important part is to make sure you don't spin the steering wheel while things are disconnected. Even a string or bungee cord around the steering wheel to the shifter or brake handle will suffice.
The only goal is to make sure you reconnect it in the same position as you unbolted it, and not 180* (or worse) off.
The real important part is to make sure you don't spin the steering wheel while things are disconnected. Even a string or bungee cord around the steering wheel to the shifter or brake handle will suffice.
The only goal is to make sure you reconnect it in the same position as you unbolted it, and not 180* (or worse) off.
Cant mess up the alignment or you will be SORRY! Just keep the steeering wheel and the rack in the same position. Theres also a CLOCK spring inside the steering column. If you rotate the wheel too far either way,,, more than when you turn the wheel LOCK TO LOCK,,,,it will break.BC
BC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Coulmbia New Jersey
A tow truck driver told me a quick solution to hold the wheel. Move the seat foreward and run the seat belt thru a spoke of the wheel and buckle it. I have found it holds the wheel like a charm.
Dave
Dave
Race Director
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From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Haven't tried it, but seems like a great way to accomplish this simple task.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: monroe city mo
The seat belt deal sounds like a good idea. So now when im trying to get the rack out i cant bump the ends because they will move? Am i making this harder than what it is? Seems like the closer i get to doing this the more confused i get.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Once disconnected, you can move the rack any way you want.
When you put it back in, and reconnect the ends, push the wheels so they are straight again, and then reconnect the sterring shaft and assuming the steering wheel never got turned, all will be well.
When you put it back in, and reconnect the ends, push the wheels so they are straight again, and then reconnect the sterring shaft and assuming the steering wheel never got turned, all will be well.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
What exactly do you mean..."put the balancer back were it goes" ?
If I were you, I'd pick up a service manual. This is probably the biggest PITA job on the car if you are using jackstands.
If I were you, I'd pick up a service manual. This is probably the biggest PITA job on the car if you are using jackstands.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: monroe city mo
The harmonic balancer has moved out about a 1/4 inch. I had a heads & cam done 8 months ago and i guess they didnt do the job right because it has worked its way out.Yes,i will be using jack stands.
The job was done by a vendor up in your area of the woods.
The job was done by a vendor up in your area of the woods.
Last edited by bowtiebubba; Nov 9, 2007 at 08:35 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 3
From: South al
:non
Ya It sounds Like u are making it out to be hard,its Not,If u bump The Ends its not a Big Deal ,I bumped the ends on Both sides & the Rack Works perfect ,i took mine out several times Bymyself,It is much easier if u can get a Buddy to help u Guide it ,Twist & Turn the rack to get it out the bottom of the car,Just be careful when Putting it back in you dont Pinch anything ,Play close attention to the Red & Black wires on the Rack ,I pinched the red wire In the Bolt that holds the Rack in On the Drivesside ,went to crank up the car to have a 1288 code come up ,Then i had to get back underneath the car & Try to Buttsplice these wires ,With no Room To work, it is a tight fit Be CareFul,Take a close look @ The balancer ,if it looks Good & U see No seperation ,Then I would think they didnt tq the Bolt to 240 ,Or they reused the Old Bolt ,this is a 
It is imperative that u use this Bolt 1 time & Throw it away ,U may use the Old bolt to get the balancer back on & Rattled Up ,,Or see if u can Find Another Bolt Same Size But a inch or so Longer ,This will help u get the balancer all the way on the crank, Dont Forget Put the New Balancer Bolt in Before Tqing it down to 240
It is imperative that u use this Bolt 1 time & Throw it away ,U may use the Old bolt to get the balancer back on & Rattled Up ,,Or see if u can Find Another Bolt Same Size But a inch or so Longer ,This will help u get the balancer all the way on the crank, Dont Forget Put the New Balancer Bolt in Before Tqing it down to 240
Last edited by fsuforever; Nov 9, 2007 at 12:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,056
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From: monroe city mo
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 0
From: monroe city mo
I have a kwik lift i could do this on.I didnt know if the ramps on the lift would be in the way when i remove the steering rack.I thought doing it on jack stands would be easier.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
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From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Make sure you replace the balancer bolt....don't just retighten it, or you will be doing this job again in the future.
The bolt is a one-time-use fastener.
The bolt is a one-time-use fastener.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 181
From: NE OH
Some suggestions for you, having recently went through this....
1) Rack doens't need to come all the way out. Just enough so you can get to the crank
2) May want to consider replacing your PS hoses, since you'll have both of them disconnected at the hard to get a end. Think about replacing both belts too, while everything is apart.
3) Unless the balancer is only a smidge off the crank, use a threaded rod to re-install the balancer. Reusing the old bolt to press the balancer on could result in damaged crank threads.
4) Crank threads are M16/2.0 pitch in case you need to buy the threaded rod. Same size tap is ~$15 from NAPA
5) Pin the crank while you have everything apart. Only takes 15 more minutes at this point.
6) Use a new bolt for re-install and be sure to follow GM's torque specs. The angle spec may be difficult to hit, a couple of degrees off shouldn't hurt.
Good luck!!
1) Rack doens't need to come all the way out. Just enough so you can get to the crank
2) May want to consider replacing your PS hoses, since you'll have both of them disconnected at the hard to get a end. Think about replacing both belts too, while everything is apart.
3) Unless the balancer is only a smidge off the crank, use a threaded rod to re-install the balancer. Reusing the old bolt to press the balancer on could result in damaged crank threads.
4) Crank threads are M16/2.0 pitch in case you need to buy the threaded rod. Same size tap is ~$15 from NAPA
5) Pin the crank while you have everything apart. Only takes 15 more minutes at this point.
6) Use a new bolt for re-install and be sure to follow GM's torque specs. The angle spec may be difficult to hit, a couple of degrees off shouldn't hurt.
Good luck!!