HELP -Can a K Harness Be Fixed(column lock)
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
I picked up this information off the internet - never had to try it myself - hope it helps you.
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GM - K Harness:
The relays supplied in that kit 89028316 have been known to be faulty. Somewhere around 2 1/2 years ago, the manufacturer for the original relay supplied with that kit went "belly-up" according to GM parts tech and they superceded another manufacturers relay to the kit that has been very problematic. I have had cars not leave the lot after having the current "special policy" bulletin on the stick shift cars. This kit was used in the 04006 campaign series on the automatic equipped vehicles when the relay was superceded. We had problems with those too with the new relays............
Jerk the jumper harness and relay and toss it...........................All of the relays that are problematic are white.....the ones that worked were black /or gray....The current ones are made by Tyco I believe. I just did one today at work. I haven't had to do one in a while...we'll see how that works.
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Reset Fuel Cutoff Issue
Symptom - Pull Key wait 10 seconds and/or Fuel Cuts off after 2 seconds when trying to move the car.
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"
4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an "Automatic Mode" which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press "E/M". If you want to erase codes in a given module, press "RESET".
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold "RESET" until it displays "NO CODES". Press "OPTIONS" to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
Key back off, remove fuse #25 and wait 10 minutes before re-installing it.
Install the fuse, bring key back to On and all messages should be cleared as well as the fuel cut-off. If you still have problems repeat the above except this time remove fuses #25 and #29 for 10 minutes. Repeat again and it should be good to go.
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////
GM - K Harness:
The relays supplied in that kit 89028316 have been known to be faulty. Somewhere around 2 1/2 years ago, the manufacturer for the original relay supplied with that kit went "belly-up" according to GM parts tech and they superceded another manufacturers relay to the kit that has been very problematic. I have had cars not leave the lot after having the current "special policy" bulletin on the stick shift cars. This kit was used in the 04006 campaign series on the automatic equipped vehicles when the relay was superceded. We had problems with those too with the new relays............
Jerk the jumper harness and relay and toss it...........................All of the relays that are problematic are white.....the ones that worked were black /or gray....The current ones are made by Tyco I believe. I just did one today at work. I haven't had to do one in a while...we'll see how that works.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Reset Fuel Cutoff Issue
Symptom - Pull Key wait 10 seconds and/or Fuel Cuts off after 2 seconds when trying to move the car.
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"
4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an "Automatic Mode" which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press "E/M". If you want to erase codes in a given module, press "RESET".
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold "RESET" until it displays "NO CODES". Press "OPTIONS" to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
Key back off, remove fuse #25 and wait 10 minutes before re-installing it.
Install the fuse, bring key back to On and all messages should be cleared as well as the fuel cut-off. If you still have problems repeat the above except this time remove fuses #25 and #29 for 10 minutes. Repeat again and it should be good to go.
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
It doesnt make a difference what harness I use if the actuator is locked. I tried to open the actuator --the way you would when putting in a clb with the purple wire to 12v and orange wire to ground the actuator motor is not working! I can actually see the pin sticking out - I can push it in with my finger but it just comes back out. Does this mean the actuator is stuck in LOCKED position???
Last edited by C5TORCHED; Dec 13, 2007 at 08:58 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
If you connect an aftermarket CLB relay, it will work even though the actuator does not work. The aftermaket kit leaves the actuator disconnected, whereas the GM version used in the recall keeps the actuator in the circuit.
I will return with pictures.
Here is the actuator, pointing to the locking pin...
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Dec 13, 2007 at 09:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
Yes that is the pin But it is stuck out I could push it in but it comes right out and it does NOT cycle... what are my choices??? I tried hooking up the purple to 12v and the orange to a ground to cycle it but it is jammed??
Last edited by C5TORCHED; Dec 13, 2007 at 09:09 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
If the actuator does not work, your best option might be to install the aftermarket CLB. I have read posts by other forum members that have installed the GM Harness K relay and left the actuator disconnected and it still worked.
You can try to get a replacement Harness K kit from GM for free, or you can just order the aftermarket version. Both contain a relay that performs the same function, to simulate the actuator and send the correct signal back to the BCM to keep the PCM from cutting fuel.
If you want to put the system back to stock, you will have to replace the actuator, which is expensive, and if your lockplate has been removed, the column will not lock anyway.
You can try to get a replacement Harness K kit from GM for free, or you can just order the aftermarket version. Both contain a relay that performs the same function, to simulate the actuator and send the correct signal back to the BCM to keep the PCM from cutting fuel.
If you want to put the system back to stock, you will have to replace the actuator, which is expensive, and if your lockplate has been removed, the column will not lock anyway.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
If the actuator does not work, your best option might be to install the aftermarket CLB. I have read posts by other forum members that have installed the GM Harness K relay and left the actuator disconnected and it still worked.
You can try to get a replacement Harness K kit from GM for free, or you can just order the aftermarket version. Both contain a relay that performs the same function, to simulate the actuator and send the correct signal back to the BCM to keep the PCM from cutting fuel.
If you want to put the system back to stock, you will have to replace the actuator, which is expensive, and if your lockplate has been removed, the column will not lock anyway.
You can try to get a replacement Harness K kit from GM for free, or you can just order the aftermarket version. Both contain a relay that performs the same function, to simulate the actuator and send the correct signal back to the BCM to keep the PCM from cutting fuel.
If you want to put the system back to stock, you will have to replace the actuator, which is expensive, and if your lockplate has been removed, the column will not lock anyway.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 650
Likes: 4
From: Pittsburg Ca.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
HERE ARE THE FACTS: car stalls after 2mph(fuel cut off) -- "pull key wait 10 sec then service column lock " messages
1. 98 vert with the A4 trans w/factory recall mod - harness K
2. So-- column does not physically lock (column is apart so I check and the locking plate was removed)
3. removed harness K and reconnected the factory plugs, cleared codes with the DIC then pulled fuse 23,25, 29--and waited 10 min. ---no change(seems ok at first but if I try driving it stalls and then the colunm lock message"
4. after much reading and some help from the forum and physical inspection I realized that the actuator motor is not cycling- the pin is sticking out. I unpluged the actuator and with key off I put +12v into the purple wire on female plug and ground to the orange wire on the female plug. Nothing -- then tried reversing the wires +12v to the orange and ground to the purple. Nothing. I am assuming the actuator is shorted out.
What are my choices. Can I install aftermarket CLB --EVEN THROUGH THE ACTUATOR IS SHORTED OUT IN THE LOCKED POSITION? I read that there were some problems with the early C5 A4's using aftermarket CLB ????????
1. 98 vert with the A4 trans w/factory recall mod - harness K
2. So-- column does not physically lock (column is apart so I check and the locking plate was removed)
3. removed harness K and reconnected the factory plugs, cleared codes with the DIC then pulled fuse 23,25, 29--and waited 10 min. ---no change(seems ok at first but if I try driving it stalls and then the colunm lock message"
4. after much reading and some help from the forum and physical inspection I realized that the actuator motor is not cycling- the pin is sticking out. I unpluged the actuator and with key off I put +12v into the purple wire on female plug and ground to the orange wire on the female plug. Nothing -- then tried reversing the wires +12v to the orange and ground to the purple. Nothing. I am assuming the actuator is shorted out.
What are my choices. Can I install aftermarket CLB --EVEN THROUGH THE ACTUATOR IS SHORTED OUT IN THE LOCKED POSITION? I read that there were some problems with the early C5 A4's using aftermarket CLB ????????
Last edited by C5TORCHED; Dec 14, 2007 at 10:41 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
So far, you have proven that the actuator and relay have both failed.
The dealer may be willing to replace the Harness K relay, or you can just order the aftermarket CLB.
By the way, the reason a forum member installed the GM harness instead of the aftermarket version was because there are come glitches with 97 and 98 models as you mentioned. He installed the GM harness and left the actuator disconnected, and it worked fine.
Again, you have to have a working relay if the actuator is out of the circuit. You might be able to do a seach for posts by TorchRedRaider and find the original post.
Here it is...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=column+lock
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Dec 14, 2007 at 12:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
I am sorry but I am tring to understand, this is all new to me. What you are saying is
1- get a new relay or whole new harness K which is the GM harness
2- you state as long as the relay is working --plug harness K 4 wire plug into the BCM side and CONNECT the 2 wire plug frome the harness K into the actuator side.(even though the actuator pin is extended)
3- then you said the forum member used the harness K(GM harness) and left the harness K 2 wire plug DICONNECT from the actuators plug?
almost understand- please be patient. Thanks
1- get a new relay or whole new harness K which is the GM harness
2- you state as long as the relay is working --plug harness K 4 wire plug into the BCM side and CONNECT the 2 wire plug frome the harness K into the actuator side.(even though the actuator pin is extended)
3- then you said the forum member used the harness K(GM harness) and left the harness K 2 wire plug DICONNECT from the actuators plug?
almost understand- please be patient. Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
I am sorry but I am tring to understand, this is all new to me. What you are saying is
1- get a new relay or whole new harness K which is the GM harness
2- you state as long as the relay is working --plug harness K 4 wire plug into the BCM side and CONNECT the 2 wire plug frome the harness K into the actuator side.(even though the actuator pin is extended)
3- then you said the forum member used the harness K(GM harness) and left the harness K 2 wire plug DICONNECT from the actuators plug?
almost understand- please be patient. Thanks
1- get a new relay or whole new harness K which is the GM harness
2- you state as long as the relay is working --plug harness K 4 wire plug into the BCM side and CONNECT the 2 wire plug frome the harness K into the actuator side.(even though the actuator pin is extended)
3- then you said the forum member used the harness K(GM harness) and left the harness K 2 wire plug DICONNECT from the actuators plug?
almost understand- please be patient. Thanks
2. Get RID of the K Harness! It is NOT needed, and costs more than a CLB!
3. The Actuator will be completely out of the loop (i.e. disconnected) after you install the CLB.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
I am sorry but I am tring to understand, this is all new to me. What you are saying is
1- get a new relay or whole new harness K which is the GM harness
2- you state as long as the relay is working --plug harness K 4 wire plug into the BCM side and CONNECT the 2 wire plug frome the harness K into the actuator side.(even though the actuator pin is extended)
3- then you said the forum member used the harness K(GM harness) and left the harness K 2 wire plug DICONNECT from the actuators plug?
almost understand- please be patient. Thanks
1- get a new relay or whole new harness K which is the GM harness
2- you state as long as the relay is working --plug harness K 4 wire plug into the BCM side and CONNECT the 2 wire plug frome the harness K into the actuator side.(even though the actuator pin is extended)
3- then you said the forum member used the harness K(GM harness) and left the harness K 2 wire plug DICONNECT from the actuators plug?
almost understand- please be patient. Thanks
Some people think that GM kept the actuator in the circuit with the Harness K to provide the correct loading on the BCM circuits and prevent damage to relays in the BCM. However, the link I provided shows that the GM harness can be connected to the BCM, leaving the actuator disconnected, and the relay will still provide the correct signal to the BCM. I am not certain what will happen if you use the Harness K and connect the harness to an actuator that is stuck in the locked position where it cannot cycle. You could always connect a new Harness K kit without the actuator and see what happens.
One thing that is certain. An aftermarket CLB relay should resolve the problem with the BCM cutting fuel. You may still get an occassional error message, but the car should be driveable.
You must have a working relay in the circuit or a working actuator, but you do not need both.
We are going to drive the other members that just want you to install the CLB nuts, but that is OK.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Dec 14, 2007 at 02:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
I have the actuator plugged in back to factory for the 10 th time reset fuse 25 and all of a sudden it started to cycle and the car runs and drives again. I then unpluged and replugged the harness K back in-reset fuse 25 and no good the fuel cut off. So I put the factory plugs back together reset fuse 25 and everything is working. I know this is only a temporary fix because the actuator must have loose wires or somthing. At this point I think I am going to see if I can get another relay or harness K from GM???
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 650
Likes: 4
From: Pittsburg Ca.
Now That you know the actuator actually works. Skip the k- harness unless you can get GM to replace it for free. In april of 2007 GM came out with an upgraded K-Harness. The one in mine was installed in may,after the upgrade. I have not had a single problem with mine. But if GM wont replace it for free it is pretty expensive. You might want to use a clb. Whole lot less problems from those........
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
Went to GM
Now That you know the actuator actually works. Skip the k- harness unless you can get GM to replace it for free. In april of 2007 GM came out with an upgraded K-Harness. The one in mine was installed in may,after the upgrade. I have not had a single problem with mine. But if GM wont replace it for free it is pretty expensive. You might want to use a clb. Whole lot less problems from those........
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Well I went to Gm and the service manager looked up my Vin and said a recall was done in 2005 SO they closed it out. He then said if it broke within 12 months of the recall mod he could help me. He was going to make a call on monday and see what he can do??? I would really just buy the aftermarket CLB but I read they really do not always work on the early C5. If the company would garentee that it works with my car or let me return if it does not work ---then sure I will try it. In the mean time I started a thread in GENERAL to see how many members with 97 & 98 with A4 trans have the aftermarket CLB and it works for them-- so far not to many.
The CLB webpage from ThunderRacing used to have a note that said if you have a 97 or 98 model and you have problems, you can return it for a refund. I will go look to see if it is still there.
Yep, it is still there...here is what it says.
"For 1997 and 1998 cars, there is a possibility you will randomly see a message "Pull key and wait 10 seconds" with a Column Lock Simulator. Thus far, 2% of my customers have had it, and other manufacturers have had the same issue with 1997 and 1998 model cars. If you have a 1997 or 1998 model, and you understand this, you can order below. You will have the option of a refund if the simulator does not work in your vehicle."
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Dec 15, 2007 at 12:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island NY
I am seriously leaning toward the Thunder Racing CLB. They state the clb can be returned if I have a 97/98 and it doesnt work. Also because the column actuator motor - believe it or not was NOT cycling and somehow jammed for 2 days. Now its working.
