I have a 98 A4 and my fuel pump shuts off after 2mph. The car was purchased used and I have no idea if the recall was done. The fact that the steering wheel still turns makes me believe that the recall was done. I looked through the sticky and saw the info about the k harness and relay. Is there a way to change out the relay because I would not think the wires themselves would go bad. Also my battery has gone dead many times(still completing car) and I charged the battery and NEVER had a problem. I did do some hammering on the front bumper reinforcement, maybe the vibration srewed up the relay. Not sure what caused it but now the dic shows the "service column lock" and "pull key and wait 10 seconds". I put alot of money in the car and just really friggin frustrated. Any help would be appreciated.

 

You can see if the dealer will replace the Harness K relay free of charge, or you can just remove it yourself and replace the relay harness with an aftermarket version. If your lockplate has been removed, at least you don't have to worry about the column locking, just the relay signal back to the BCM.
If your column lock actuator is still working, you can always reconnect the actuator as a temporary fix. The actuator will cycle, the column will not lock, and the BCM will be happy and not cut the fuel.

 

Well after reading through 15 pages, I have come to the conclusion that I have to remove the knee bolster under the column to see if the factory recall mod was done. Also I think I read that there is a relay wired to the harness K strapped to the steering column, is this true? Because it is a 98 and an A4 there is NO relay on the pass floor near the BCM. If the harness K is on my vehicle how do I bypass it or reactivate the actuator so the BCM has the correct signal for fuel??

 

I disconnected the battery, removed the knee bolster under the column and there it was --the recall mod -just as described. It is about 14" long harness with a relay and a plug that goes to column harness and a plug that goes to the BCM harness, I think. Well I removed the harness- just unpluged and repluged the factory harness and whoa la -FKIN NO DIFFERENCE! Rechecked fused 23 & 25, tried clearing the dic going through diagnostic codes and clearing. I am I doing something wrong or what -- talk about a reliable car! The dic states "pull key and wait 10 seconds" after I do that the dic states "service colmn lock". Check battery voltage w/key off it was 12.61 V, tried the key on/off fast couple of times. Right now when I start the car it shows "service column lock" --will not drive over 2mph and column NOT locked. HELP

 

I picked up this information off the internet - never had to try it myself - hope it helps you.

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GM - K Harness:

The relays supplied in that kit 89028316 have been known to be faulty. Somewhere around 2 1/2 years ago, the manufacturer for the original relay supplied with that kit went "belly-up" according to GM parts tech and they superceded another manufacturers relay to the kit that has been very problematic. I have had cars not leave the lot after having the current "special policy" bulletin on the stick shift cars. This kit was used in the 04006 campaign series on the automatic equipped vehicles when the relay was superceded. We had problems with those too with the new relays............

Jerk the jumper harness and relay and toss it...........................All of the relays that are problematic are white.....the ones that worked were black /or gray....The current ones are made by Tyco I believe. I just did one today at work. I haven't had to do one in a while...we'll see how that works.

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Reset Fuel Cutoff Issue

Symptom - Pull Key wait 10 seconds and/or Fuel Cuts off after 2 seconds when trying to move the car.
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an "Automatic Mode" which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press "E/M". If you want to erase codes in a given module, press "RESET".

To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold "RESET" until it displays "NO CODES". Press "OPTIONS" to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.

Key back off, remove fuse #25 and wait 10 minutes before re-installing it.

Install the fuse, bring key back to On and all messages should be cleared as well as the fuel cut-off. If you still have problems repeat the above except this time remove fuses #25 and #29 for 10 minutes. Repeat again and it should be good to go.

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Ok the relay is white and says tyco I am tring to figure how to test it. I am very good with wiring(as long as someone can instruct me.) The harness can NOT go bad -the relay is probably bad. The green wire (status line) is showing +12V which is why the BCM is locking the column. The green wire should be grounded. I think it is the relay. I pulled the harness, reconnected favtory wires and fuse 23 & 25 waited 2 minutes and still no change. I reinstalled the harness pulled fuse 23 & 25 waited 2 min and still no change. Can I also just remove negative batt terminal to also clear the BCM? Not sure if there is a way to just ground the green wire -I do not want to burn up the BCM?

 

The sticky stated fuse 23 & 25 -- I will try anything at this point. I tried everything that was posted --still nothing. I tested the purple, blk, orange and green wires W/O harness K - reconnected fatory plug-

purple +12V
orange +12V
green +12V
blk grounded


with the harness K at the relay same results

with the harness K No relay same results

 

I posted the instructions above and as I stated, I personally never had a harness failure, so I never had to use this procedure.

However ----- Instructions MUST be followed to be effective.

(Example below)

GM has a “relearn” sequence for the resister chip in the ignition key. This relearn sequence MUST be repeated THREE times in a row and the interval for each sequence is TEN minutes. Not two minutes, not nine minutes, not nine minutes and 50 seconds, but ten full minutes (600 seconds) each and every time. It takes 30 minutes plus to get through the relearn. If the sequence is not followed the BCM will NOT RELEARN.

Based on the above, I would say wait the 10 minutes.

 

Ok sorry this is all new to me --never had problems like this with my benz.

1--remove harness K & (reconnect factory harness)
2--reset all codes through DIC
3--shut key and remove ONLY fuse # 25 in pass footwell and wait ATLEAST 10 minutes
4--reinstall fuse #25- put key on (do not start) ALL messages should be clear

I am sorry I am lost with your direction after this. I got to this point-- I start car but same problems.

 

According to the instructions above, if just pulling fuse #25 doesn't work. Repeat the sequence and pull fuses #25 AND #29. (see post #5 above)

Have you tried to reconnect the steering column lock? Plugs in where the K-harness was. (The K-harness takes the place of the steering colunm lock motor)

Plug in the stering colunm lock and try the relearn sequences again.

Hope this helps. Don't give up, keep trying - a couple of hours experimenting can save you a lot of money if it keeps you away from the dealer.

Good Luck.

 

Yes I reconnected the factory harness(it just plugs in where the harness K was)


The relearn is for the key correct? Because the car starts every time --if the key had to be relearned the car probably would not start, correct?

 

Just curious if you could hear the actuator cycle when you reconnected it and turn the key off?
If your actuator has also failed and cannot cycle to the unlocked position, obviously it will not be sending the correct signal to the BCM.
Reconnecting the actuator as a fix assumes that you had a working actuator before the relay failure.

 

Where is the actuator-- I have the column apart at this point. I followed the wires it looks like a square metal that about an inch thick and 3"x3" behind the steering wheel on the column? If it is not working- what are my choices? Is there a way to bypass it? Like I said before the green wire has +12 V -so your right the BCM is sending the electrical signal to lock the column(mine does not physically lock)

 

No - Sorry, I did not mean to confuse you.

The key relearn was only an example to show that procedures must be followed to the letter. (ten minutes does NOT mean 9 minutes & 59 seconds)

The relearn you are attempting is for the BCM (Body Control Module) and the column lock only.

As was stated in a previous post, your column lock must be functioning properly in order to work when it is reconnected (as it was from the factory when the car was built.)

You should hear the actuator motor in the steering column working for a second or two when you turn the ignition key to "On".

Get in the habit of turning the ignition key slowly when starting the car - pause ever so briefly at "On" when turning the key from "Off" to "Start"

 

NO I do not hear any noise from the actuator -hard to tell if actuator is making noise because I hear alot of clicking from the pass fuse box(cover is off)

 

On my 2000 automatic, the lock plate has been removed but I can hear the motor in the steering column working as I turn the key to start the car. It makes a very brief “whirring” sound. (The sound of the motor spinning to retract the locking pin).

So it seems that my column lock is still hooked up but with no locking plate to engage. This was all done before I purchased the car. Some day I will pull the knee panel and see what is or isn’t hooked up.

I wish I had more experience with this column issue to be of more help – but I do not. I only know what I read - and I've been reading tech articles on the C5 for about two years.

I haven't taken any of my cars to a mechanic for repair in decades, but I am new to the C5 and learning all that I can.

I've owned Corvettes since the early 1970"s.

 

You might end up buying a CLB (ditching the GM K-harness AND column lock motor), re-syncing the BCM as in my post #5 above.

Hopefully someone else will chime in with more information. If I can find more info I will post.

Good Luck.

 

Ok thanks for helping I NEED A DRINK

 

I think the column actuator is locked. That is why nothing is helping. I have the actuator disconnected and I put +12V to the purple wire and hooked a ground to the orange wire. This I believe should unlock the actuator but I do Not hear anything. Also if the actuator was already unlocked maybe thats why it did not make noise. Soooo basically I need to know how to test/check to see if the actuator is working????

 

For dogs sake man, get a CLB, remove the Kharness trash, and be done with it!

Are you sure you don't work for GM