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AC not working right

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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #1  
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Default AC not working right

HELP- I have air coming out of the passenger and driver vents, but only the passenger side is cold. Anyone know what's going on and the fix?

DJ
Hawaii
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 01:14 PM
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Check the freon level.

No joke. You would think it would be a damper door or something, but a little low on freon can cause cool air only on one side.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jan 4, 2008 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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check the DTC in the hvac controll modul.I think one of the actuators will not work.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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You want AC, move to fricken CT, Its 14 degrees here!!

On a more serious note, Yep,,,,check the DTCs for any HVAC DTCs. If you have them try this procedure:

Turn the HVAC System OFF.

Pull up the DTC and scroll down to HVAC and check for DTCs Write down the listed DTC and then clear them. When you clear them you will hear the HVAC actuators cycle through their full ranges. Once they stop, turn on the HVAC and see if the problem is resolved. If NOT, repeat this procedure a number of times. I had to do it 5-6 times and since then,,I have been code and trouble free!!

The actuators will NOTwork if you have actuator failure DTCs.

If you cant clear the DTCs after trying 5-6 times, the actuator/s could be bad. The gear on the output shaft splits!



If you DONT have DTCs ,,,YEP, check the R-134A level.

BC

BC
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 06:19 PM
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Thanks guys. No codes. First thing I checked. Added some R-134A and that seemed to resovle the problem. STRANGE.....

I've added the refrigerant twice before (with in the last 9 months) when the system was not cold. I suspect I have a small leak somewhere. But the question remains... Why now only the driver's side....?
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HawnHog
Thanks guys. No codes. First thing I checked. Added some R-134A and that seemed to resovle the problem. STRANGE.....

I've added the refrigerant twice before (with in the last 9 months) when the system was not cold. I suspect I have a small leak somewhere. But the question remains... Why now only the driver's side....?
That is indeed the $64K question. When I first saw this issue on CF I was skeptical. I studied my FSM, noting the flow of refrigerant through the evap and the movement of the blend doors across the surface of the evap. After that, I was convinced that a low refrig chg would only result in poor cooling on both sides.

Since then I have seen dozens of posts just like yours that proved the opposite. I am now a believer but I still can't explain it. I even showed the evidence to a friend of mine who is an AC guru (maintains several thousand tons of AC) and he said "Doesn't make any sense to me". Perhaps others can explain this better than I. At this point I'm just going to file this in the big folder titled "Stuff I know how to fix but don't fully understand".
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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Let me try to explain in a few words. I found out the hard way. When charge refrig is low, the side of the evap closest to the inlet is colder than the side closest to the outlet. With a dual system, the pass side is fed by the half of the evap that is closest to the inlet, so driver side gets fed by the half cosest to the outlet. Someone else should chime in and agree or disagree with my theroy.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by byronhunter
Let me try to explain in a few words. I found out the hard way. When charge refrig is low, the side of the evap closest to the inlet is colder than the side closest to the outlet. With a dual system, the pass side is fed by the half of the evap that is closest to the inlet, so driver side gets fed by the half cosest to the outlet. Someone else should chime in and agree or disagree with my theroy.

100% Correct! You posted a few minutes before I did and I was going to explain it in a similar way! The length of the cooling coil tubing (Evaporator) , the size of the expansion orifice and the correct operating pressure of the system allows the liquid R-134a sprayed into the evaporator tubing to remain a liquid spray long enough to absorb heat throughout the evaporator coil (passenger & drivers side) when the system is at all the correct parameters.

When the pressure and R-134a is low, the sprayed R-134a runs out of heat absorbing capacity somewhere in the middle of the evaporator, (leaving the passengers side warmer than the drivers side) and the liquid R-134a is transfered completely to a gas which cant absorb any more heat from the cooling coil tubing.

Thats my theory and I'm sticking to it!
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 12:58 AM
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Samething happened to me last year. Techs originally said 'actuators'
which is a costly fix...think dash coming apart...then they 'tried' the
freon refill...it worked.
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