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Just did mine. Never had a nicer pedal feel. Go for it....it takes five minutes. I saw it done on a clutch replacement step by step photo shoot deal so I thought....what the hell.
The hydraulic actuator cylinder hose is produced with a narrowed openingthat restricts the flow of hydraulic fluid and thus slows the clutchoperation. The OE purpose for this restriction, as John explains it, isto minimize driveline shock to the rearend, but by slowing down theclutch, it adversely causes more wear to the clutch plates instead.
( vette magazine )
Last edited by QUICKSLVR; May 7, 2008 at 10:19 PM.
Interesting. Anyone see any negative effects to doing this even if it makes no difference?
Curiously phrased question......So if you do a mod on your car that has no positive effects, yet yields no negative effects.....is it a bad thing. That question will plague this forum for years to come.........
Curiously phrased question......So if you do a mod on your car that has no positive effects, yet yields no negative effects.....is it a bad thing. That question will plague this forum for years to come.........
The vette guys are way behind the fbody guys with this. We were doing this back in the late 90's because of clutch pedals sticking to the floor at the track. This mod alone solved the issue. This mod also does nothing for the shifting of the tranny. If you have problems shifting then this mod will not change that. Go over to LS1Tech and read in depth about it if you want.
i have a 00 frc. i am experienceing the clutch pedal sticking to the floor on my way to a hard third gear. all the people i talked to and all the research i have done suggest i need the drill mod. so far i have found that you undo the quick connect hose that is going to the slave from the master. it is 1/16 now, drill it to 1/8.
i have a 00 frc. i am experienceing the clutch pedal sticking to the floor on my way to a hard third gear. all the people i talked to and all the research i have done suggest i need the drill mod. so far i have found that you undo the quick connect hose that is going to the slave from the master. it is 1/16 now, drill it to 1/8.
So if I have a regular garden hose, cut out a section in the middle, and splice in a section that is 1/16 larger in diameter........will it increase the overall volume/pressure at the nozzle?
So if I have a regular garden hose, cut out a section in the middle, and splice in a section that is 1/16 larger in diameter........will it increase the overall volume/pressure at the nozzle?
not understanding the full intent of your question but the drill mod is for fluid to return from the slave cyl.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Corvette Don
Dont know if it worked but I have not had my clutch stick yet!!!
Hi Don. I saw your pix of your Centerforce.
Several years ago I tried the drill mod. Actually the mod was done by Shirl Dickey out in Phoenix. He found that there is more than one restrictor and he would remove one end of the steel line, drill out the restrictor you can't get to (curve in the C5 line) and then he re-brazed the end of the line back on. He did a decent job. No leaks, etc. Trouble is, I still had sticking clutch pedal problems both with the Z06 clutch AND a Textralia X-grip I had AND a Monster Level V before.
I now have a Tick M/C with my McLeod RST and no more sticking at all.
I always liken the drill mod to putting a band-aid on a gunshot wound - sure, it may help a tad, but it doesn't actually fix the problem. The problem is that the factory master cylinder just doesn't flow enough fluid to disengage most clutches.
We designed our kit to eliminate that issue, as seen here:
Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Hi Don. I saw your pix of your Centerforce.
Several years ago I tried the drill mod. Actually the mod was done by Shirl Dickey out in Phoenix. He found that there is more than one restrictor and he would remove one end of the steel line, drill out the restrictor you can't get to (curve in the C5 line) and then he re-brazed the end of the line back on. He did a decent job. No leaks, etc. Trouble is, I still had sticking clutch pedal problems both with the Z06 clutch AND a Textralia X-grip I had AND a Monster Level V before.
I now have a Tick M/C with my McLeod RST and no more sticking at all.
YMMV
Thank you for your business, and I'm glad you're satisfied with our product!
not understanding the full intent of your question but the drill mod is for fluid to return from the slave cyl.
The clutch MASTER & Slave Cylinder are connected by a "SINGLE HOSE". That being stated, the hose is the SUPPLY & RETURN for the clutch hydraulics system.
Not trying to highjack the thread but I'm having this issue as well but its not while racing or high in the rpm range. I didnt have a problem all summer but now in the mornings sometimes when its cold (30*), it sticks or takes a couple seconds for the pedal to come back up. is this the same as what you are all talking about?
Would say so. At 30 degrees the viscosity of dot3 or 4 will be much thicker. If there is a restriction I could see this being the problem. My car had a new master slave clutch, pressure plate and flywheel installed 10k ago and has stuck ever since the hci mods. I will be replacing the clutch and hydraulics soon and fully plan on thedrillmod. I don't plan on having to disassemble this again and see no harm.
Any objections?