After 4 GS trannies I quit. Road Racer any how :D

 

Tracy,

The service manual says "remove the intermediate exhaust pipe" and "remove the driveline tunnel closeout" to access the bleeder screw. Seems to be a bit of a PITA to get to it. I think I read on the forum somewhere that a dealer charged $125 labor to do the job. It needs to be done the right way and replace the factory fluid with a better grade of stuff but the stop gap reservoir refill seem to help for now.


[Modified by Terry Humiston, 6:01 PM 12/6/2001]

 

I learned clutchless shifting in the sixty's also, those BB 3000+lb clutchs would eventualy snap the clutch fork ball right off. Diden't want to walk home so I learned.(not very difficult) As far as changeing the flued on the C5, it does work. The neatest way I have found is a LARGE medical syring and needle. As far as bleeding there are @ 36 bolts on the cover and it's diffecult to reach up to bleed if your on your back. A real pain but if the simple fix doesen't take care of it...SO FAR changeing the flued in the resoivor has worked for me. Ric

 

Considering how fragile I've found GM drivetrains to be, I'm going to stay a member of the "NEVER" group. Well Maybe never. .. Had to to do a clutchless shift on the WS6 to get it to tampa for a slave cyl replacement yesterday.

Q: How many transmissions does it take to finish at Daytona ?


[Modified by Z51BOB, 10:37 PM 12/6/2001]

 

Perhaps when my driving skills improve.On my stock Z06 It was fun and fairly EZ.When I did the LPE stage2TT 700bhp even tubbed with 18x12's and Pilotr 335/35/18's and no experience with slicks or drag radials forget it.

Now the cars in for a TT 427 C5R so I'm headed to school have an extra Tranny and some half shafts.Im expecting about 950 bhp at hi boostand 100 octane,but ill be keeping it down to about 800 HP. and 950Lb.Ft.Tqe. with some slicks on this med hi boost on about 98 octane with slicks and some lessons I hope to turn in a mid to hi 9 second 1/4 as J.L.did with an auto version of the car.Well I guess its off to school soon.Found out today mid Jan.completion date not end of Dec. I'm happy with Jan but Dec. sounds alot nicer.GO EZ AND ENJOY THE RIDE David S.

 

Ric,
thanks for the info :cheers:

 

Terry and Powershifter,

I'm dumbfounded that the General located this bleeder screw such that you have to disassemble the bottom of the damn car to get to it!!!! What were they THINKING? I wonder if just removing the closeout panel would allow sufficiant access to the bleeder, and not bother with the exhaust? Anybody know? The 36 little bolts are no problem with an air rachet. :yesnod:

I'm glad to hear that the baster/syringe method does seem to work, and I understand that it probably does need to be done in several steps to really get the fluid really clean. But even if I was to do it "right" and use the bleeder, I think that removing most of the fluid in the reservoir with a baster beforehand and putting in clean fluid is a good idea. Why pump the junk fluid down to the slave if you don't have to? Might as well waste a little fluid and flush with clean stuff!!

I really hate working with brake fluid....feels so nasty on your hands. But this is a must-do fix, IMHO. If I have any time after I get done stringing thousands of lights this weekend and making my place look like the Griswalds', I might break out the manual and give this a try. Thanks for the info. Oh....any important facts on replacement fluid? I'm thinking something simple and available, like Castrol LMA....this clutch deal isn't a high-temp racing brake application, so I wouldn't think the exotic brake fluids would be necessary.