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ok no comments on LT's being better. i'm on a budget and the shortys are more cost effective and i can do it in my garage.
ok for the ??'s Are all the bolts trasnferable to the new headers? i think the 3 that bolt the manifold to the pipe that leads down, every install pic's i've seen show them on the manifold and not the shortys, so r they welded to the manifold or do they come off of it?
also do all the stock gaskets still work fine? i have a new set but only if i need them, i'd rather not lol.
What type of shorty headers are you considering? That may help with the replies.
Most cast iron manifolds have studs in them where they bolt to the head pipe, so those may not come out easily nor would you want to reuse them.
You might get those bolts in a new set of JBA or B&B shorty headers, anyway. If not, you can easily find stainless, grade 5 or grade 8 bolts for that junction.
I think most owners end up using the oem bolts at the flange/heads, but after market (ARP) bolts are available.
The oem gaskets seem to be preferable as well...especially if yours are salvageable for re-use.
yeah i got B&B, but they are used so i have no hardware just the headers themselves. SO i'd need to get the 3 flange bolts for both sides to attach to the H-pipe?
Tikiman, FKing1 is correct. Our Shorty headers are a direct bolt on and come with anything you would need for the install.
Mark Fowler
Billy Boat Performance Exhaust
Mark, does your Phoenix shop still do customer installs? And if so, what is the typical amount of time involved ($/hr) so that the original poster might have a general comparison vs DIY?
Last edited by hotwheels57; Feb 16, 2008 at 12:58 PM.
Mark, does your Phoenix shop still do customer installs? And if so, what is the typical amount of time involved ($/hr) so that the original poster might have a general comparison vs DIY?
Yes, we do installs. I would estimate around $250.00 to $300.00 for the install (approx 3 hours). If you are doing it yourself at home I would suggest you plan on the better half of the afternoon to do it.
yeah i was planning on do it today, b/c i have no other plans. BUT now that i know i need those bolts. idk if i could wait to contact you or run to the store and get some proper bolts today.
on that note, what is the proper sized bolt, thread size etc
yeah i was planning on do it today, b/c i have no other plans. BUT now that i know i need those bolts. idk if i could wait to contact you or run to the store and get some proper bolts today.
on that note, what is the proper sized bolt, thread size etc
If I remember right they are 3/8-16 but I can't remember the length.
I installed a set of JBA headers on my car. It took about 5 hours to do, and I used a lift to get beneath the car. I used the supplied bolts and gaskets because I didn't know better. I would recommend reusing the stockers if they are in good condition. The studs will come out of the factory manifolds, but they are junk and I wouldn't reuse them. I twisted 3 off when installing my x-pipe. I used some PB Blaster and a stripped bolt extractor with an impact to get them out. I replaced them with some nice Grade 8 studs from NAPA.
i did my install today, what a pain in the ***. but totally worth it, however i have a tiny clicking noise, sorta sounds like a leak, but when i rev the motor over 1000rpm's it stops clicking. i think it might be the gasket at that little dangley thing that bolts to the top of headers
You may have an exhaust leak...but, keep in mind that tubing headers do not insulate against valve train noises as oem cast iron manifolds do.
nah its definitly is a leak, b/c it click up top of the motor area and its only on the drivers side. i think the one bolt that was REALLY hard to get my wrench into isnt tight