How Do I Install Loose OEM Shifter
My First post, I just got a 2000 Hardtop 6 speed. The shifter lifted up 2 or 3 inches. The only thing keeping it from coming right off the shaft was the leather boot. I pulled the boot out and the shifter came right out. Nothing holding it in. I took it into the house and set to checking it out.
I took the demon key out, as per instructions here. I unscrewed the ****. It is all in pieces and I could put it all back together and put it on but I don't see what would keep it secure on the shaft.
The demon key doesn't reach far enough to affect the securing to the shaft. I guess it is only to keep the **** from turning.?
Maybe something fell out or was never in there? I could glue it on
but that would be kinda crazy
to do to a vette. ***** needs help in Vancouver
Last edited by corvettewilly; Feb 28, 2008 at 01:58 AM.
I just noticed it has a rubber insert in it. I bet the insert is meant to be a friction fit on the shaft. Strangely it is not even a bit snug, just totally loose.
Do you think this is right? If so I have to wrap a bit of tape around the shaft to get a good friction fit.
I just noticed it has a rubber insert in it. I bet the insert is meant to be a friction fit on the shaft. Strangely it is not even a bit snug, just totally loose.
Do you think this is right? If so I have to wrap a bit of tape around the shaft to get a good friction fit.
. My camera batteries died
II will charge them and I will try taping the shaft to see if that tightens my shifter enough to drive around today without having it roll around in my hand on each shift..
Maybe the previous owner shortened the shifter (cut the threads) which prevents the "demon key" from fully seating. The key will require a good whack from a hammer/punch to fully seat.
If that's the case, you can use an after market **** (uses no "demon key") or take the "opportunity" to R&R and install an after market shifter.
This might give you some insight for R&R of the shifter assembly. It's shows a C6/Z06 shifter or HURST, but it's helpful...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1022661
Last edited by hotwheels57; Feb 28, 2008 at 11:17 AM.
I think it has another 1/2 inch to go to be fully on but to do this I have to take the **** off again and hammer the shift tube over the shaft, taking care not to damage the threads for the ****. Then it should be tight.
I will get some fotos if need be this afternoon when the camera is charged up. I am a little nervous about pounding with a hammer until someone here confirms the plan.
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That rubber bushing is supposed to be bonded to the shafts and NOT come loose. You can either GLUE the two back together or (IMHO) install an aftermarket shifter. The aftermarket shifters are much better and are a LOT more accurate and professional feeling than the stock OEM shifter.
I have a KIRBAN Shifter and I really like it. It has additional cantering springs in the shifter base that help center the shifter in the 3 & 4 shift gate. This additional centering force helps people avoid shifting from third gear (engine at 6000 rpm) back to second which would make the engine spin at 8000 RPM
) Recommend you find some C5 owners in your area that have aftermarket shifters and see if they will let you examine theirs before you order one that you really don't like.
Shifter feel is a very personal thing and every one has their own opinion what is best for you. KIRBAN all the way!!!!!!!!!
Bill C





Where do you live???????????????????????





http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1022661
The C6 shifter is a very good shifter BUT, it does not employ any centering springs.
Bill
I couldn't attach a picture, I don't think I am qualified, When I click "insert image" i get a box for a URL.
Can I try again?: I pulled up in the shifter **** and the whole shifter came off in my hand. The **** and a 5 or 6" tube connected to it, the tube with the threads and the demon key, came off in my hand.
Left behind and attached to the car is what the shifter was attached to, about maybe 4inches long so if I was desperate I could shift that thing and keep driving but it is easier to put the shifter back on the rod and drive with a loose shifter.
By the way I have become a vette aficionado, there is a lot about the vette that really captivates you. I look forward to going places now not just getting there, in fact I think I am starting to make excuses to go places LOL.
William from Vancouver BC
[URL="http://www.stl-vettes.com/Home/Shifter.asp"]http://www.stl-vettes.com/Home/Shifter.asp[
/URL]
Those two parts that came apart on me are: the "black wine bottle shaped piece" with the shifter **** on it and the "silver steel rod" it goes over.
They say remove the other 2 pins...I don't know about those pins.
Step 3: Remove the square pin. "This is the hard part" Depending on how hard the assembly line worker hammered in the pin will determine the difficulty level of this task. I have had one (mine) that was driven in so hard it required vice grips apply extremely tight and a hammer to pound upwards to remove. The other two pins came out using two screwdrivers, one on each side.
http://www.stl-vettes.com/Home/Shifter.asp
So what steps are you not sure about in the above link?

So I'm assuming the black shifter piece ("whine bottle shaped piece") pulled out of the smaller sliver rod.
Probably just a press fit ... so maybe it could be secured somehow or maybe it's time for a good aftermarket shifter.
Last edited by ZeeOSix; Mar 1, 2008 at 03:55 AM.
) has it right He said: "Probably just a press fit ... so maybe it could be secured somehow or maybe it's time for a good after market shifter." I guess it is just a press on fit. The looseness I feel may be only because I haven't tightened the **** with the "demon Key" cause if I don't want to have to try to get the pin out again if I pound it down. and then find out I haven't done the job on the lower piece correctly.
I did read last night that you can push the shifter into reverse and pull upward and the sifter (**** and all) would give way. There are 2 springs in the cupholder but they are like long skinny springs almost like but a bit skinnier than ball point pen springs. They may have come out
I will phone my cousin (gave me the car) to see if he knows anything about a previous incident. C5 can be a bit difficult to get into reverse and my brother in law was taking a drive in my car .... he put it in reverse... or tried to... and reefed upward cause it wasn't going... and the whole shifter came off in his hand.
So I am ready to just tighten up the **** if the springs aren't necessary and not reef upward anymore.
Is this what you guys would do?




There are centering springs inside the transmission. The ones for the early C5's sucked. My 02 ZO6 felt better but still lacked the nice 3-4 gate centering. The C6 centering springs are better. There still not very strong and the addition of an aftermarket shifter with centering springs seems to make the shifting process a LOT nicer for me.
If you take a stock C5 or C6 shifter off the mounting base, the handle will flop around in a continuous non gated movement. There are no gates or guides to control it. The reason that the the other aftermarket shifters seem like they have gates is because the center springs guide it to that center position when its in neutral.
Has anybody found different strength springs for a KIRBAN Shifter. A couple of us need to find some to experiment.
BC
BC
) has it right He said: "Probably just a press fit ... so maybe it could be secured somehow or maybe it's time for a good after market shifter." I guess it is just a press on fit. The looseness I feel may be only because I haven't tightened the **** with the "demon Key" cause if I don't want to have to try to get the pin out again if I pound it down. and then find out I haven't done the job on the lower piece correctly.
I did read last night that you can push the shifter into reverse and pull upward and the sifter (**** and all) would give way. There are 2 springs in the cupholder but they are like long skinny springs almost like but a bit skinnier than ball point pen springs. They may have come out
I will phone my cousin (gave me the car) to see if he knows anything about a previous incident. C5 can be a bit difficult to get into reverse and my brother in law was taking a drive in my car .... he put it in reverse... or tried to... and reefed upward cause it wasn't going... and the whole shifter came off in his hand.
So I am ready to just tighten up the **** if the springs aren't necessary and not reef upward anymore.
Is this what you guys would do?










