And then I went to an MGW 25% shorter throw than the C6 shifter. 
I really hate this hurst shifter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,760
Likes: 75
From: Haymarket VA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 142
From: Iowa
Sounds like some of the guys here just need some more practice.
I've never had a problem with my hurst in the 16months I've been using it. I find it a pleasure to use while cruising, and just an absolute blast when driving the car to the edge.
I have never missed a single shift.
The stock shifter was just too soft and mushy for my taste. It's just awful.
I've never had a problem with my hurst in the 16months I've been using it. I find it a pleasure to use while cruising, and just an absolute blast when driving the car to the edge.
I have never missed a single shift.
The stock shifter was just too soft and mushy for my taste. It's just awful.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
Either my shifter is screwed up or some of you have a different aggressive driving style. I could practice all day but this shifter is not letting me do what I need it to do. I can shift "quick" with ease but its not fast enough got my liking for the track.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 142
From: Iowa
I don't think it's the shifter. Or it IS the shifter and there is something mechanically wrong with it. In perfect operating condition, the Hurst shifter SHOULD be able to do what you want it to.
I didn't pick out my name because I'm easy on the gears!
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 505
Likes: 2
From: VA
Maybe there is something wrong with yours. If by different aggressive driving style you mean some of us are not really bangin gears..I come from a Mustang with with a Jerico four speed that shifts without the clutch after the launch in first. I've pulled the handle right off the Jerico before...I push and pull on the Hurst the same way. Maybe just disengage the clutch enough to get the transmission out of gear, no need to push the clutch all the way to floor.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 367
Likes: 3
From: maple grove and North Port fl mn and now florida
Are you sure it was properly aligned when the shifter was installed? You can put these shifters in and without proper alignment they will appear to work ok but need to be aligned to work properly, just my $ .02
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
You think you're some kind of quick-shifting racing prodigy or what?
I don't think it's the shifter. Or it IS the shifter and there is something mechanically wrong with it. In perfect operating condition, the Hurst shifter SHOULD be able to do what you want it to.
I didn't pick out my name because I'm easy on the gears!
I don't think it's the shifter. Or it IS the shifter and there is something mechanically wrong with it. In perfect operating condition, the Hurst shifter SHOULD be able to do what you want it to.
I didn't pick out my name because I'm easy on the gears!
Is there a write up to check the alignment? I can slam 2nd without lifting but its something about the 2-3 shift that this shifter disagrees with.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: North Las Vegas NV
I had the same problem with my Hurst. I must have taken it out and put the stock one in at least 3 times. I even shortened the stock shifter 3/4" and re-threaded it and it was better but still wasn't what I wanted.
Here's what I did. It's kind of a combination of previous posts. I did the anti-venom mod(search) with 1 washer. I found the washers at PepBoys. They were copper oil drain plug washers I think. That loosened up the shifter quite a bit(takes about 15 minutes). On the shifter I used a light spring on the right/passenger side of the shifter, and a slightly stiffer one on the left.
The result was never missing a gear, but down shifting took slightly(hardly noticeable) more effort.
My 2c's. Better and cheaper than buying another shifter.
Here's what I did. It's kind of a combination of previous posts. I did the anti-venom mod(search) with 1 washer. I found the washers at PepBoys. They were copper oil drain plug washers I think. That loosened up the shifter quite a bit(takes about 15 minutes). On the shifter I used a light spring on the right/passenger side of the shifter, and a slightly stiffer one on the left.
The result was never missing a gear, but down shifting took slightly(hardly noticeable) more effort.
My 2c's. Better and cheaper than buying another shifter.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Never said I was lol, I've just seen a couple videos posted and thats not what I call banging gears. Im going to swap in the C6 Z06 shifter and report back. The Hurst was in the car when I bought it and I have none of the hardware needed to make adjustments.
Is there a write up to check the alignment? I can slam 2nd without lifting but its something about the 2-3 shift that this shifter disagrees with.
Is there a write up to check the alignment? I can slam 2nd without lifting but its something about the 2-3 shift that this shifter disagrees with.
There are Three things that you need to do to make sure that the shifter is correctly adjusted:
First - Shift the transmission in NEUTRAL. Remove the shifter ****, boot, console cover.
Find the small L shaped pin or a drill bit thats the same size. Slide the pin into the hole in the front of the shifter housing snout. This will insure that the shifter rail is in the neutral position and aligned with neutral in the trans.
If the hole doesn't line up,, you will need to loosen the clamp that connects the housing to the shifter rod and the two housing to tunnel attachment screws. Once its loose, slide the shifter handle around until the pin drops in and then tighten the two housing screws and then the rod clamp. Add some white lithium grease to the shift rail in the shifter housing and make sure that the black detachable isolator on the bottom of the shifter fits in the shift rod loop nice and snug. If it really loose, a new one will make the shifter nice and tight again.
Hope that helps.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,405
Likes: 26
From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Same here...best shifter out there...never missed 3rd even if I tried. Sounds like theres no springs installed to guide you into 3rd gate.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
Blu
There are Three things that you need to do to make sure that the shifter is correctly adjusted:
First - Shift the transmission in NEUTRAL. Remove the shifter ****, boot, console cover.
Find the small L shaped pin or a drill bit thats the same size. Slide the pin into the hole in the front of the shifter housing snout. This will insure that the shifter rail is in the neutral position and aligned with neutral in the trans.
If the hole doesn't line up,, you will need to loosen the clamp that connects the housing to the shifter rod and the two housing to tunnel attachment screws. Once its loose, slide the shifter handle around until the pin drops in and then tighten the two housing screws and then the rod clamp. Add some white lithium grease to the shift rail in the shifter housing and make sure that the black detachable isolator on the bottom of the shifter fits in the shift rod loop nice and snug. If it really loose, a new one will make the shifter nice and tight again.
Hope that helps.
There are Three things that you need to do to make sure that the shifter is correctly adjusted:
First - Shift the transmission in NEUTRAL. Remove the shifter ****, boot, console cover.
Find the small L shaped pin or a drill bit thats the same size. Slide the pin into the hole in the front of the shifter housing snout. This will insure that the shifter rail is in the neutral position and aligned with neutral in the trans.
If the hole doesn't line up,, you will need to loosen the clamp that connects the housing to the shifter rod and the two housing to tunnel attachment screws. Once its loose, slide the shifter handle around until the pin drops in and then tighten the two housing screws and then the rod clamp. Add some white lithium grease to the shift rail in the shifter housing and make sure that the black detachable isolator on the bottom of the shifter fits in the shift rod loop nice and snug. If it really loose, a new one will make the shifter nice and tight again.
Hope that helps.
Could this be all my problems? Not having that L shaped bend to keep everything aligned? I installed the C6 Z06 shifter and its still giving me the same problem going into 3rd.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
The alignment pin is only needed when you align the shifter (holding the shifter/transmission in neutral) as recommended above. If left in the down position, you wouldn't be able to shift out of neutral.
Otherwise, it is simply lifted upwards and locked in that position. They can get lost easily, especially when owners change out to an after market shifter which doesn't come with an alignment pin.
The lost pin is sometimes found to be the cause of noise if it's fallen down into the torque tube/heat shield area.
In lieu of the pin, you could use a drill bit, punch or nail to complete the alignment.
Maybe your specific problem is something related to the internals of the transmission?
Otherwise, it is simply lifted upwards and locked in that position. They can get lost easily, especially when owners change out to an after market shifter which doesn't come with an alignment pin.
The lost pin is sometimes found to be the cause of noise if it's fallen down into the torque tube/heat shield area.
In lieu of the pin, you could use a drill bit, punch or nail to complete the alignment.
Maybe your specific problem is something related to the internals of the transmission?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
The alignment pin is only needed when you align the shifter (holding the shifter/transmission in neutral) as recommended above.
Otherwise, it is simply lifted upwards and locked in that position. They can get lost easily, especially when owners change out to an after market shifter which doesn't come with an alignment pin.
The lost pin is sometimes found to be the cause of noise if it's fallen down into the torque tube/heat shield area.
In lieu of the pin, you could use a drill bit, punch or nail to complete the alignment.
Maybe your specific problem is something related to the internals of the transmission?
Otherwise, it is simply lifted upwards and locked in that position. They can get lost easily, especially when owners change out to an after market shifter which doesn't come with an alignment pin.
The lost pin is sometimes found to be the cause of noise if it's fallen down into the torque tube/heat shield area.
In lieu of the pin, you could use a drill bit, punch or nail to complete the alignment.
Maybe your specific problem is something related to the internals of the transmission?
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: NC
yea iv had no problems with my hurst and im going over a year with it... after some practice getting the 2-3 timing down its sweet!. you have to use your palm on this shift keep ur fingers off the front of the kob.(towards the ac controls) .. and trust me now when i hit the 2-3 now it makes a noise like its shooting into gear and im banging it so hard that the gear diagram cap hits the windshield.