C5 battery disconnect switch

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Mar 7, 2008 | 02:31 PM

JoeyG

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Safety Car

Joined: Aug 2000

Posts: 4,537

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From: St. Joseph MO

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C5 battery disconnect switch

This is a new disconnect setup I made. Voltage loss from the remote mount disconnect switch is only 0.25VDC. The switch is a 200A Moroso, all brackets and mounts were made from materials I had lying around. This isn't the final appearance, as it is mainly the mockup. Power cable is 2/0 from batery to switch and back. Aluminum treadplate was used mainly for flexibility and strength (plus i had alot of extra). Drilled only 3 additional holes for switch and fuse holder, used cargo net studs in mounting also.

Switch backside
http://www.putfile.com/pic/7788855

Disconnect from driver side
http://www.putfile.com/pic/7788856?pos=top

Disconnect driver side #2
http://www.putfile.com/pic/7788857?pos=top

Disconnect control rod (fucntional tailight still)
http://www.putfile.com/pic/7788858?pos=top

Main power fuse mount (might modify and polish later on)
http://www.putfile.com/pic/7788859?pos=top

Side battery view and alt fuse holder
http://www.putfile.com/pic/7788861?pos=top

Flame suit on, but I really don't care.

Last edited by JoeyG; Mar 7, 2008 at 02:36 PM.

Mar 7, 2008 | 03:04 PM

hotwheels57

Race Director

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 10,554

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From: Not on either liberal coast.

Is this car strictly for racing? If so, it looks well thought out. If not, then I'd mount the disconnect somewhere else...pranksters.
The one thing that concerned me is the diamond plate mounted over the battery terminals.

Mar 7, 2008 | 03:33 PM

JoeyG

Thread Starter

Safety Car

Joined: Aug 2000

Posts: 4,537

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From: St. Joseph MO

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The rod will be removed for non-track days. I'm going back to a side post only battery and the tread plate will be trimmed for additional clearance also. The tread plate is actually secured in three spots and is rock solid with no movement at all.

Mar 7, 2008 | 03:56 PM

hotwheels57

Race Director

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 10,554

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From: Not on either liberal coast.

Mar 13, 2008 | 02:42 PM

JoeyG

Thread Starter

Safety Car

Joined: Aug 2000

Posts: 4,537

Likes: 84

From: St. Joseph MO

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Updated pics here

http://www.putfile.com/album/180144?pos=top

Mar 13, 2008 | 04:24 PM

AU N EGL

Team Owner

Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 43,084

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From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC

Cool

Here is the one I just bought

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=1464

Mar 13, 2008 | 05:38 PM

JoeyG

Thread Starter

Safety Car

Joined: Aug 2000

Posts: 4,537

Likes: 84

From: St. Joseph MO

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Cool,never seen that one before. I only wonder about the contact termnal ratings:o

Mar 13, 2008 | 05:49 PM

AU N EGL

Team Owner

Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 43,084

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From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC

"This switch has three sets of contacts for cars with alternators. The main contacts disconnect the battery while the auxiliary contacts disconnect the ignition coil and short the alternator output to ground through a 3 ohm resistor that is furnished with the switch. A removable actuating key with splash guard, weather-proof cap, resistor and installation instructions are included. (Resistor lead configuration may vary from the photograph shown.) Don't forget to purchase an "Off" Decal (part #3356, sold separately).

Question: How do I know if I'm looking at the genuine article and not a lower quality clone?

Answer: The terminals of the genuine highest-quality switches are plated with a tin-alloy and are therefore silver colored. Lower quality clones have unplated brass terminals. In addition, genuine switches are shipped with half-height nuts while clones are usually furnished with full height nuts."

Here are the wiring diagrams

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/4430-inst.jpg