can it be done? B/c i'm thinking i can do it lol, just get some sort of container that seals and put a hose out the top and a house in the side and connect them to the TB like the real oil catch cans. I mean, is it that hard they we have to spend over a $100 for a fancy looking can?

If it can be, has anyone done it and what did you use? also what would i need other then a bottle, and hoses?

 

That would just be a can with hoses connected to it. A good functioning catch can has an interior baffel system in it to seperate & condense the vapors & mist. For the $69 that ours cost it would be pretty hard to make up something even 1/2 as functional.

 

hmm tempting

 

I'm sure you can get everything you need at home depot and pep boys. Let us know how it works out for you

 

Looks like the most popular DIY version use an air compressor filter.

http://www.pbase.com/rsrock/oil_catch_can

A different approach here on an LS1

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/PCV...oval%20101.pdf

 

For a can to be effective it needs to be metal to transfer as much cooling as possible. It also must have a pretty good size in volume to have as much inner surface area as possible to facilitate condensation, and last, it needs to have a baffel system to prevent the mist & vapors from pulling through w/out condensing. I ran the "Home Depot" mod for several years before designing this one & although it caught oil, it let just as much through into the intake.

 

What's that old adage...oh, yeah...

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make a drink it...

 

i use an air compressor filter for my catch can and it works great.

 

CH filter for me, mounted in "reverse flow" then followed by a clear bowl paper fuel filter. My system seems to work well as determined by the paper filter remaining dry and only moderately discolored.

 

Just take out the stone filter, work fine for me.

 

Why did you remove the stone? I have been using this system for over two years and still have good flow. Is your concern of the stone becoming clogged?

 

There are two things wrong with using a Home Depot filter as shown above.

1. The bowl is made of polycarbonate, which can be attacked by some oils and of course, unburned fuel. This is a poor choice of materials for that reason alone, but also note that the max operating temperature of this filter is about 125F. I measured over 140F near the passenger side head, even with my CAI blowing cold air into the engine bay. I also measured 160+ degrees F blowby gas temperatures at the PCV valve.

2. Most of these filters are designed for very high flow rates, meaning their elements are not nearly dense enough to trap oil aerosols. Their primary purpose is to trap water. Most people who have oiled CH compressors actually need the oil to lubricate their impact wrenches. It's the water they must try to stop from entering the tool. We need to trap the oil, so installing just a HD particulate filter won't do the trick. A coalescing filter that is sized properly will do this very well.

 

I have built one out of PVC pipe for my stealth, I will see if I can dig any pics up but it worked great, just drilled and taped the side for the pipe nips and created a internal baffle with some steel wool to filter.

 

Lets try to remember what the objective is; remove all the oil, water and aprticulates (liquid and vapor) from the crankcase line that loops back thru the intake. Of these oil is the hardest to remove. And the purpose of eliminating oil thru the intake is to stop carbon build up on valves ,pistons , cylinder head and spark plug. The carbon leads to pre detonation and power loss. The oil contaminates the CATs and O2 sensors which then causes increased emissions and componet failure. Oil vapor will reduce air to fuel mixture ratio which ends in power loss. Throttle body and MAF malfunction.

Bottom line is no oil return is best. To help what ever system you use , mounting location is important to promote oil condensation. Mount the system as far from the heat source as possible . I have followed Dave68's experiments and success by using both a oil separator filter and coalescing filter ( both have alloy construction with 8 oz oil capacity each.) and mounted low near the radiator shroud, so the oil/vapor travel down to the filters but returns up toward the engine. My filters are a modified Binks units. Coalescing filter uses a glass microfiber media which last indefinitely. I use a similar sytem on the wife's 2000 FRC and both my turbo charged C 8.3 Cummings , '87 GN.

Using something to contain oil and water is better than nothing but realize that not all 'catch cans' are created equal.

Side note ; I learned to eliminate all contaminates from compressed air source because of the painting I used to do. One thing that will ruin a paint job is water or oil. LOL

 

For the 6 dollars, I'll replace the housing every other year.

As far as collection, that is why you remove the stone. The hundred dollar can sold around here serve the same purpose.

Just do a search, It has been proven here to cost 1/10 of the Corvette Tax and works just as good.

 

I just installed one of these in my car!! Great price and looks great

 

I think you should do the search. Quite a few CF members who use Brillo pad filter elements have opened up their intakes within a years time and have found plenty of oil. That's oil that almost certainly entered the intake in aerosol form.

A homemade catch can is like a homemade intake filter - it'll either filter something, but not nearly enough, or restrict flow so much as to adversely affect proper engine operation.

Remember, it's not how much you pay, but what you are paying for.

 

Well stated!

 

Here ya go.

 

It never fails , you guys never fail into driving some humor into everyting. I love it

I see that the alcohol fumes with help performance but the carbonation with reduce oxygen volume.