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Its not too hard,jack up and support FE by framerails behind the crossmember.loosen lower ball joints nuts,remove both R&P mount bolts,remove 3-4 ABS bracket bolts if yours has them on the crossmember.Unclip but do NOT remove brake lines,unclip ABS wiring to RF wheel.remove lower motor mount nuts(motor isnt going to fall out)remove lower shock bolts/with a floor jack and board,pop lower ball joints loose from knuckle,supporting the lower a-arms.Support engine from behind the cradle assy either with several large 2x10s on a floorjack under pan assy or with custom a-frame/engine cradle from above.You do NOT want engine to go up or down more than about 3/4 inch if you can help it during the swap ! Once engine is secured,remove 4 big nuts on corners of cradle,drop it out,smile and reverse for install.Generally takes about 1-1/2 hrs round trip .
I dont know, that crossmember isnt all that bad. Its aluminum which is brittle. That may not even have been part of what got the car the salvage title.
That skid bar and cross member could have been something as simple as a rock or debris on the road.
If you are replacing the crossmember with the car intact, get the proper tool, dont rig anything up.
He wants to remove and replace the front crossmember, which is what the engine mounts are attached to. So, he has to "hang" the entire engine while dropping the crossmember out from under it (with the engine mounts disconnected) and then raise the new crossmember into place, attach it to the frame, and then lower the engine back onto the engine mounts/crossmember and attach it.
I know, thats why I said to support the engine with a jack placed at the bellhousing while the cradle is removed.
If the floor jack will lift the entire car off of the ground then it should be more than adequate to hold the engine up.
I'm more worried about the bellhousing collapsing ... I know the jack can do it. Especially because the bellhousing has that lower section that is removable ... to me (not having tried it) it sounds as risky as supporting the engine with the oil pan.
I dont know, that crossmember isnt all that bad. Its aluminum which is brittle. That may not even have been part of what got the car the salvage title.
That skid bar and cross member could have been something as simple as a rock or debris on the road.
If you are replacing the crossmember with the car intact, get the proper tool, dont rig anything up.
It is not part of the accident that got the car the salvage title. The car was hit at a stoplight, from what the seller said. I believe she smacked something going down the road. Maybe a brick or a piece of concrete.......Anyway, I replaced the skid bar over the weekend and I am currently looking for a shop that can weld aluminum. If I cannot find one, or I don't think it can be welded to my satisfaction, I will probably call a shop and see how much they would charge me to swap the crossmember. I think I could do it, but I am unsure about supporting the engine, especially with the 3/4" tolerance that someone mentioned above. If I had a big *** hook anchored in my garage ceiling, I would do the torsion bar trick and chain it to the front of the motor, then hang it by a come along. We'll see what I can find out.....
Thanks for all of your replies and help guys!! This forum is first rate!
Replace it with a used one.If you feel it's too big a job take it to a good Vette shop.Done.As far as the insert into the frame that supports the rad/skid cradle you can buy inserts for blind holes.If your welding idea dosn't work I will try and find the company that makes them.They are very slick.A good welder with a hoist should be able to fix it properly though.
Good luck and keep trying.
Originally Posted by GOFASTERNUT
That's probably a great idea. I'll have to look into that. I did get a used crossmember for it already. Only $150. What should I do??