car stalled and wouldn't keep running
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa
car stalled and wouldn't keep running
I need some help!
I had a mild cam put in my car along with a UDP and a dyno tune serveral weeks ago at Ed's shop in Chesapeake. since then I've noticed that the car was slightly easier to stall than it used to be. I don't know if this is relevent or not, but there's some history.
I had a small leak code on the EVAP system a couple weeks ago, refueled and made sure the cap was on tight and that problem went away also.
today I drove home for lunch and my car stalled while making a turn into my driveway. I figured I just let the RPM's drop too much. it started up and I parked. I got back in to head back to work and my car would not run well. if I reved it it would rev up then drop down to 300 or so and start to bog, but then would return to normal. rpm's were in the 500 range as I backed out of my driveway and then headed down the road. I stopped at the stop sign and it stalled. I went through this several times, it would start right back up, run rough at 400-500rpms then it would stall unless I gave it some throttle. I turned around and went back. it would run just fine as long as we were moving, but it would not idle unless I gave it some throttle. worried about this I shut it down and went to get something to write down the codes. there was no MIL, and no codes of any significance. I had cleared them about a week and a half ago. I had 2 SCM codes, and an RFA code, U 1016 H which I believe is a loss of communication, and also probably doesn't have anything to do with this. I didn't clear the codes. I restarted the car and then everything magically went away. it would idle at 700, and if I revved it the rpms would only drop to 500-600 as they came back down then they would stabilize at 700-750.
what gives? should I be concerned about this? Should I check something?
its hot out today and the A/C was probably working more than it has been for the last several months, but its not even that hot yet, I don't see why that would make any difference. if anything the UDP should make the car feel less of a burden from accessories than before. something in the tune? something completely unrelated?
please help!
I had a mild cam put in my car along with a UDP and a dyno tune serveral weeks ago at Ed's shop in Chesapeake. since then I've noticed that the car was slightly easier to stall than it used to be. I don't know if this is relevent or not, but there's some history.
I had a small leak code on the EVAP system a couple weeks ago, refueled and made sure the cap was on tight and that problem went away also.
today I drove home for lunch and my car stalled while making a turn into my driveway. I figured I just let the RPM's drop too much. it started up and I parked. I got back in to head back to work and my car would not run well. if I reved it it would rev up then drop down to 300 or so and start to bog, but then would return to normal. rpm's were in the 500 range as I backed out of my driveway and then headed down the road. I stopped at the stop sign and it stalled. I went through this several times, it would start right back up, run rough at 400-500rpms then it would stall unless I gave it some throttle. I turned around and went back. it would run just fine as long as we were moving, but it would not idle unless I gave it some throttle. worried about this I shut it down and went to get something to write down the codes. there was no MIL, and no codes of any significance. I had cleared them about a week and a half ago. I had 2 SCM codes, and an RFA code, U 1016 H which I believe is a loss of communication, and also probably doesn't have anything to do with this. I didn't clear the codes. I restarted the car and then everything magically went away. it would idle at 700, and if I revved it the rpms would only drop to 500-600 as they came back down then they would stabilize at 700-750.
what gives? should I be concerned about this? Should I check something?
its hot out today and the A/C was probably working more than it has been for the last several months, but its not even that hot yet, I don't see why that would make any difference. if anything the UDP should make the car feel less of a burden from accessories than before. something in the tune? something completely unrelated?
please help!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Sounds like it could be tuning issue.
I recommend you let Ed do some scanning to make sure that the LTFTs are correct and all the other variables that control idle are working properly. I would also make sure that the air pluming between the TB and MAF are all air tight.
BC
I recommend you let Ed do some scanning to make sure that the LTFTs are correct and all the other variables that control idle are working properly. I would also make sure that the air pluming between the TB and MAF are all air tight.
BC
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
I agree I think it is in the tuning. I have a mild cam,heads, and other bolt ons and I have the same issue. I got a tune and it is not as bad but will still do the same things. If I'm above 1k Rpms and push the clutch in the rpms will drop and sometimes it will stop at 900rpms or it will just die. Usually when I start the car in the morning it starts right up and sometimes the rpms will bounce one time but idle around 900rpms. If i drive somewhere and stop for like 30 minutes and start it back up the car will start then die unless i give it a little throttle and let it sit at 900 rpms. Other times it will start and be fine. I usually see the most problem when its cold outside. When the oil temps are below 70 deg f. I've got used to it and it doesn't really bother me to bad. Hope you solve your problem
God Speed
God Speed
