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I just finished changing my coolant. Topped up the reservoir and ran with the cap off and then on. Can't seem to get the temp. below 210. I assume there is air in the system somewhere.
Any tips on how to solve this problem?
Also, the drain valve --- In reading other threads, I assumed that you turned the white nylon plug on the (as you face the car from the front) lower left corner of the radiator. It turns out that this plug/valve pulls out (toward the rear of the car). What is to prevent this from moving as the vehicle is operating?
I just finished changing my coolant. Topped up the reservoir and ran with the cap off and then on. Can't seem to get the temp. below 210. I assume there is air in the system somewhere.
Any tips on how to solve this problem?
Also, the drain valve --- In reading other threads, I assumed that you turned the white nylon plug on the (as you face the car from the front) lower left corner of the radiator. It turns out that this plug/valve pulls out (toward the rear of the car). What is to prevent this from moving as the vehicle is operating?
Thanks.
Why did you change the coolant .... was the system running at 210 before the change ???? Are you driving the car with the coolant at 210 ... or is that sitting idling .... in which case 210 is normal .... get on the road and get some air through the radiator and see where the temp ends up. Also driving the car will help purge any trapped air from the system.
The drain valve is only meant to be opened 90 degrees (a quarter turn) then pulled out. To close the valve you push it back in and turn it closed 90 degrees. If you turned it too far when opening it you have damaged the tabs that hold the drain valve in the radiator.
Replacement radiator plugs cost about $5 at NAPA, and they have a hand operated "handle" instead of stock 1/4 inch square drive. I broke mine the first time I changed fluid.
pull the hose loose and drain some coolant off at the stat....makes a mess but.....
...to bleed the system when refilling, here is a trick. The coolant line that goes from the intake to the radiator can be disconnected at the intake side and suspended with the hole facing up.
As you refill the cooling system, most (if not all) of the air will be forced out that hole.
You can also run the engine with the cap off of the coolant fill tank, but you have to keep a close eye on it if it starts to bubble coolant out.
I drove the car for about 15 minutes and the temp stayed around 206 -209. When I returned home, I let it idle and the temp crawled up to 220 at which point I turned it off. After it cooled, I checked the reservoir and it was still full.
Any other ideas on how to burp this thing?
The shop manual says to full it up three times. Each time, alternately rev to 3,000 rpm until temperature reaches 210 F. Then CAREFULLY remove cap and repeat. Last time fill to 1/2 inch above cold mark.
This is NOT like the C4, you won't get trapped air.
I drove the car for about 15 minutes and the temp stayed around 206 -209. When I returned home, I let it idle and the temp crawled up to 220 at which point I turned it off. After it cooled, I checked the reservoir and it was still full.
Any other ideas on how to burp this thing?
Was the AC on or not when it was 220? Without AC, the fan does not come on until 226, 2nd fan at 235. With the AC at idle, it usualy won't go much above 205-210 since the low speed fan is on.
The correct procedure is to bring it up to 212 and then carefully let it "burp" by releasing the cap slowly. If you do a search you will find the actual procedure from the shop manual.
The shop manual says to full it up three times. Each time, alternately rev to 3,000 rpm until temperature reaches 210 F. Then CAREFULLY remove cap and repeat. Last time fill to 1/2 inch above cold mark.
This is NOT like the C4, you won't get trapped air.
.... It is not trapped air.
I already asked the OP above ....
Why did you change the coolant .... was the system running at 210 before the change ????
Has the OP checked under the front airdam for debris in the front of the A/C condenser ???
Has the OP checked the upper and lower radiator hose temperatures to ensure proper coolant circulation ???
Is the center airdam correctly in place ????
What is the oil temperature when the coolant temperature is running at 210 ???
Was the AC on or not when it was 220? Without AC, the fan does not come on until 226, 2nd fan at 235. With the AC at idle, it usualy won't go much above 205-210 since the low speed fan is on.
The correct procedure is to bring it up to 212 and then carefully let it "burp" by releasing the cap slowly. If you do a search you will find the actual procedure from the shop manual.
Good luck.
If he's driving the car around, the coolant should be at about 195 to, at most, 200.
Also driving the car "burps" the cooling system through the air bleed pipes .... often referred to as the "steam" pipes on top of the engine.
He doesn't need to "burp" the system ... he's most likely got some other problem.
The low speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 108°C (226°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 104°C (219°F). The high speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 113°C (235°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 108°C (226°F). When the A/C is on and the coolant temperature reaches 85°C (185°F), the low speed cooling fan will be turned on at vehicle speeds less than 56 kPh (35 mph).
I changed the coolant because it is 7 years old.
I'm unsure of coolant temp before change - I rarely read it on the DIC but the temp needle is where it usually is on the gauge.
The A/C condenser coil had a small amount of debris that I vacuumed off.
Both the supply and return hoses were hot to the touch.
The center of the air dam is scuffed but largely intact.
When the coolant temp is 210 the oil temp is 199.
Ambient temp is 70.
The card drives ok temp wise - it's just when I idle it that it starts to creep up.
BTW, how high would you let the temp go before shutting the car down?
Thanks for everyone's input. It is much appreciated.
How come no one reads the Owner's Manual for these cars ..... go to the Index and look up ENGINE, sub-category "Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode"
You can drive the car at least 50 miles with NO (Zero ... None ... Nada ... Zilch) coolant in the system when the engine goes into this "Limp Home" mode .....
As Oldvetter points out, your car is operating within the "normal" range of coolant temperatures.
As Bugs Bunny would say .... "unlax", there is nothing to worry about.
I'm still running 220 when idling. I know everyone said don't worry but after 10 minutes of idling today I noticed a small amount of coolant under the car. I couldn't tell where it was coming from. The fan was also running and it has never done this in the past. I'm a little worried when the ambient temp hit 95 this summer.
I know I'm being the guy who asks for advice and then questions the advice - but I would hate to burn up a perfectly good engine because I missed something.
Thanks again, everyone!
I'm still running 220 when idling. I know everyone said don't worry but after 10 minutes of idling today I noticed a small amount of coolant under the car. I couldn't tell where it was coming from. The fan was also running and it has never done this in the past. I'm a little worried when the ambient temp hit 95 this summer.
I know I'm being the guy who asks for advice and then questions the advice - but I would hate to burn up a perfectly good engine because I missed something.
Thanks again, everyone!
My '04 coupe occassionally idles at 220+ in D.C. stop-n-go traffic if I have the A/C off. Just today just as I saw 228 the fan kicked on and brought it back down. I'm still with the "your car is acting normal" crowd.
As to the coolant dropping, was the coolant at the center? under the engine? under the radiator? off to one side near a wheel (i.e., under the recovery tank)? Did you spill any during refill that may have finally found its way to the ground? Lastly, have you taken a flash light and poked around the water pump for tell-tale signs of a leaking pump? Could be the coolant on the ground is just a coincidence, and from an source unrelated to the coolant change.
like blackz06 said, there is no need to burp the cooling system. if you feel you must to put your mind at ease, disconnect the coolant return hose from the throttle body. This will enable the entire system to be purged manually. Reconnect the hose and close the valve when you see a drop of coolant come out.
I'm still running 220 when idling. I know everyone said don't worry but after 10 minutes of idling today I noticed a small amount of coolant under the car. I couldn't tell where it was coming from. The fan was also running and it has never done this in the past. I'm a little worried when the ambient temp hit 95 this summer.
I know I'm being the guy who asks for advice and then questions the advice - but I would hate to burn up a perfectly good engine because I missed something.
Thanks again, everyone!
You do not have a problem. The temp will sit right about where you are seeing it when the car is idling. Oldvetter's post describes the proper operation of the cooling system fans.