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Front Tie Rod Ends!!! Arrgh

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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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Default Front Tie Rod Ends!!! Arrgh

Alright, I've searched here and ls1tech yet I appear to be the only soul to have ever had an issue getting these things off.

I managed to get the driver's side off with all the force i could muster, but the pass side is stuck unlike anything I could ever imagine.

So Far:
- Tried a 22mm on nut and vice grip on end - nope
- Added PB Blaster - nope
- Added Insanely Strong Friend - nope
- Added MAP torch - nope
- Added MAP torch on end and freeze spray on rod - nope
- Vice Grips break - added blood to floor
- Added 2ft Pipe Wrench - nope
- Added 2ft adjustable wrech for counterpressure - nope

So, at this point you've got a 200lb guy and a 300lb ex football player using a torch and and almost comically giant wreches with all the force we could muster and this thing isn't budging.

I'm certain we're turning the right way. The jamb nut did eventually break free, but the end is still seized to the rod. I can't get a 13mm wrench to hold the rod with much force, and I fear a pipe wrench would damage it.

I'm hoping we're just really dumb and there is an easy way to do this, because sheer force isn't working.
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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Di you mean the tie rod from the rack where it connects to the steering knuckle?
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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Not really sure what piece you are talking about either. I think you are talking about where the tie rod attaches to the tie rod end knuckle. If so, mine have never been an issue. As one side is 180 out from the other side, the way you pull the wrench is different on one side of the car than the other. I think that if you put a wrench on the jam nut from the bottom, you'll pull the wrench towards you on the driver's side and push it away from you on the passenger side if you are coming at it from the front. I think I use a 1/2" on the jam nut and something like 7/8" on the flat spot on the knuckle to apply a counter torque.
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Yes, the front tie rod that connects to the spindle. The jamb nut is loose, but I cannot get the piece on the right (tie rod end) to spin off the rod.


Last edited by BQuicksilver; Apr 13, 2008 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 07:07 AM
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I reviewed the service manual, nothing magic about the joint that you already don't know. You may need to pull the rack and take to a shop or (gulp) use some heat. If the jam nut is loose, the tie rod end should spin off. Other option would be to tilt the tie rod towards the floor and let some PB Blaster soak in for a day.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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hit the lower control arm where the tie rod connects to with a rubber mallet. Thats all I can give you as far as advice. Mines been stuck everyonce in a while when im taking stuff apart, but the rubber mallet does a good job.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Yeah, we've already got two days of PB blaster in it, used a MAP torch combined with that freeze spray, and huge pipe wrenches. I can't believe how stuck this is.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Did you ever get the tie rod end off?
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 06:47 PM
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If you are replacing the tie rod end, you can use a cut-off wheel to "split" the threaded end of the tie rod end enough to open up the clearance in the threads between the rod end & tie rod.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 07:08 PM
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Default Seized tie rod ends!!!!

Hi guys and gals - I own a corvette service center in Columbus, OH. With 31 years in business my customers really trust me so when I tell them at times that we can not align there C4's & C5's until we do some repair because the tie rods are seized they wonder why GM does not lube them better at Bowling Green. Usually it is in the rear where the problem occurs. Sorry to here about the front one's you are fighting. You have already done all the things we do and more. Again sorry and good luck.
Lloyd Harvey
Corvette Care, Inc
Columbus, Ohio 43224
614-471-3331
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bobc997615
If you are replacing the tie rod end, you can use a cut-off wheel to "split" the threaded end of the tie rod end enough to open up the clearance in the threads between the rod end & tie rod.
I wouldn't want to attempt this.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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Tighten it first. Then loosen it. That works sometimes.

Steve
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:56 PM
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Guys, I think he got it off because this thread began in April!!

Either that or he poured gasoline on it and burned it.
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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Guys, I think he got it off because this thread began in April!!

Either that or he poured gasoline on it and burned it.

Sadly this isn't true.

I have no idea how to get it off.
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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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get a real cutting torch and heat it let it cool and PB it again. Make sure you are turning it the right way. It will get hot enough to crush any rust in there when it expands. Get it cherry red which I doubt a MAP will come close to.
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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40 years as a mechanic and this trick I have just learned heat the threaded area ,as hot as you can get it immediately press a wax candle to the threaded area,melting the wax, the wax will be pulled into the threaded area and allow you to seperate the pieces.P.S. when you said you used heat I assumed you used map or propane by which bthis method will work satisfactory if you heat with oxy/acteylene and it didn't come off wax or anything else short of devine intervention won't help in which case as mentioned in an eariler postsplit it lengthwise with a wizzer (cutting Wheel)P.S.S.I've never had a part like a tie rod end not come off W/oxy /acet. but getting pipe plugs out of a cast iron eng block E.G.to acess oil galley on BB chev. during rebuild was next to impossible & most times had to be drilled out after oxy/acet failed this situation wax worked execpitional.I hope this tidbit is of info.is helpful
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