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Head bolt hole cleaning

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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #1  
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Default Head bolt hole cleaning

For those of you who have ventured into a head swap how did you clean out the head bolt holes? I'm kind of following a how-to write up that suggests grinding the side of an existing bolt so that it can be used to clean out the hole. Are there any tools that would perform the same function?
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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I would chase the holes out with the right size tap.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 11:48 PM
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Just grind one of the old bolts and use it, works fine. You could buy a tap but why spend 10 bucks on something you may never use again.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MJD
Just grind one of the old bolts and use it, works fine. You could buy a tap but why spend 10 bucks on something you may never use again.

Where can a fella get a tap? That would be my preferred method of cleaning out the holes.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 02:14 AM
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I don't think you can use a tap beacuse the threads are not flush with the top of the block but rather set deep inside---Best way is to take an old bolt--grind 2 flat surfaces on the threads on opposite sides- grind off all of threads on the opposing sides--This will allow the debris and any water a place to vent out of--Then I used a computer keyboard cleaner to blow them out with afterwards---The cleaner is just a can of compressed air with a long skinny tube that will reach way down into the hole and blow them out--An air compressor nozzle won't work as it is too wide--and you need to get down into the bottom of the hole with the tube-
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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You need to stick an air nozzle into the hole and give it a quick pull which will blow the debris and coolant out of the bolt hole.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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I used a shop-vac with a reduction tube on it. Sounds like a nice item.. but it was duct-tape, piece of copper tube...rigged up suction tube, but worked just fine.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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i duct taped a straw to the end of my shopvac. little wire bristle brush and keep spraying brake cleaner and vacuuming
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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remember that there is a big difference between a thread "chaser" and a thread "tap". You can buy a thread chaser that is specifically made for this application....I think it is ~$50..........
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by frodo84
remember that there is a big difference between a thread "chaser" and a thread "tap". You can buy a thread chaser that is specifically made for this application....I think it is ~$50..........
The chaser will clean the threads of crud, while the tap will remove metal...probably not something you really want to do.
SUMMIT RACING carries full sets of chasers in metric and SAE for very reasonable prices.
It's your car to do with as you please...
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
The chaser will clean the threads of crud, while the tap will remove metal...probably not something you really want to do.
SUMMIT RACING carries full sets of chasers in metric and SAE for very reasonable prices.
It's your car to do with as you please...
Absolutely do NOT use a tap! You do not want to remove any metal material! If you use any thing, other than cleaner and compressed air, use a thread chaser, which is flat, like a bolt on the end and will clean the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Porter
I would chase the holes out with the right size tap.
Does a world of good. Make sure it's the right size.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by frodo84
remember that there is a big difference between a thread "chaser" and a thread "tap". You can buy a thread chaser that is specifically made for this application....I think it is ~$50..........
ARP also doesn't recommend using a tap either.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 04:40 PM
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This is not a head bolt but I used it to clean the threads out of something.

I wouldn't use a tap, too many things can go wrong.

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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 04:46 PM
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oh ya, that to...forgot i did that. dremeled down a bolt on 2 sides. in out in out in out in out
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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Chasing the threads by dremeling a head bolt would make the world perfect, but could also be asking for trouble if you don't get that bolt dremeled flat, and started correctly.

I used compressed air gun with a long needle tip and stuck it into each hole, and promptly blew coolant into my face 16 times. Then used rolled up shop towel to clean the holes.

I let the block sit overnight to air dry.


I didn't have any problems torquing the headbolts
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 11:40 PM
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Get a thread chaser. It is made to the correct size so you don't strip threads or remove thread material.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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You won't find a thread chaser for the large head bolts anywhere except ARP or Kent Moore. I own and have used both the ARP and Kent Moore thread chasers. IMHO, the only way to clean head bolt holes. These are NOT taps.

They are expensive but work very well, here's the ARP part numbers:

912-0001 Clean Out Tap M8 x 1.25
912-0011 Clean Out Tap, LS1 M11 x 2.0
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:26 AM
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If you want, PM me your address and I'll grind flutes in a couple of old head bolts I have and send them to you.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by thetorch
You won't find a thread chaser for the large head bolts anywhere except ARP or Kent Moore. I own and have used both the ARP and Kent Moore thread chasers. IMHO, the only way to clean head bolt holes. These are NOT taps.

They are expensive but work very well, here's the ARP part numbers:

912-0001 Clean Out Tap M8 x 1.25
912-0011 Clean Out Tap, LS1 M11 x 2.0

I assume one of these is for the "big" holes on the bottom and the other for the "little" holes on top?

Where should I order these from?
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