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Need Help Asap With Balancer!!

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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 01:56 AM
  #1  
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Default Need Help Asap With Balancer!!

I am at my wits end trying to the balancer off. It was keyed when a cam was installed awhile ago. the engine is out now as I am doing a rebuild. I literally broke a three jaw (powerbuilt) puller trying so far. Any suggestions would be appriciated. This is holding up everything until i get it resolved.

Thx,
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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Two quetions, are the pins end on or is the key you speak of coming in from the side of the crank snout? What type of damper/pulley is on there?

Most instructions I have read require the use of anti-seize during installation, have you tried some PB Blaster although not sure well it will penetrate since its an interference fit.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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thank you for your response. just to more specific, i am referring to the crankshaft balancer. when a new cam was installed a couple of years ago, I believe a keyway was used. I don't see pin looking into the snout and cannot see the outer sides.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:09 PM
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Get another brand puller and heat up the balancer with a propane torch or anything you got. Try to get the balancer metal hot without getting the crank snout hot. This will expand the metal so you can get it off. There is rubber in the balancer, so don't get it so hot that the rubber ring melts. The rubber ring is on the outer perimeter, so the heat will probably disapate before it gets to the outer perimeter. Heat does amazing things!
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bdiddo
thank you for your response. just to more specific, i am referring to the crankshaft balancer. when a new cam was installed a couple of years ago, I believe a keyway was used. I don't see pin looking into the snout and cannot see the outer sides.
What do you mean "you believe a keyway was used"? Either it was or it wasn't. If the crank was notched for a keyway, this would be visible as soon as you removed the balancer bolt. If you are certain the balancer was pinned to the crank, and you do not see any evidence of pinning looking at the "snout" as you call it, then it is probably pinned from the side(perpendicular to the crank).
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Get another brand puller and heat up the balancer with a propane torch or anything you got. Try to get the balancer metal hot without getting the crank snout hot. This will expand the metal so you can get it off. There is rubber in the balancer, so don't get it so hot that the rubber ring melts. The rubber ring is on the outer perimeter, so the heat will probably disapate before it gets to the outer perimeter. Heat does amazing things!
I used a propane torch and when I heated the hub, the damper jumped a 1/4'

Put some tension on the puller and then heat the damper hub. You will hear it pop forward, them more force and more heat. You dont need to turn it cherry red! Probably as hot as 180-250 deg. is all the hotter that it need to be. Once I got it warmed up, it slid right offf!!!

If the crank snout gets as hot as the hub, it might not come off as easy so, try not to get the crank snout too hot.

PM Me if you need any help. Ill be home after 8 pm eastern

BC

BC
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
What do you mean "you believe a keyway was used"? Either it was or it wasn't. If the crank was notched for a keyway, this would be visible as soon as you removed the balancer bolt. If you are certain the balancer was pinned to the crank, and you do not see any evidence of pinning looking at the "snout" as you call it, then it is probably pinned from the side(perpendicular to the crank).
Only 2 ways to do it. From the front - lengthwise, or from the side, through the balancer and crank. If it was done from the side the only way you're going to get the balancer off without removing the pin is to saw it off, so you'll have to punch the pin out. If it's from the front you will see it, and it will come off, albeit with some persuasion (heat if need be).
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I used a propane torch and when I heated the hub, the damper jumped a 1/4'

Put some tension on the puller and then heat the damper hub. You will hear it pop forward, them more force and more heat. You dont need to turn it cherry red! Probably as hot as 180-250 deg. is all the hotter that it need to be. Once I got it warmed up, it slid right offf!!!

If the crank snout gets as hot as the hub, it might not come off as easy so, try not to get the crank snout too hot.

PM Me if you need any help. Ill be home after 8 pm eastern

BC

BC
As a point of reference, propane burns at approximately 900+ degrees.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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Default Thank You!!!

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all comments and suggestions. Went with a high quality puller (Snap-On) and a little heat (about !40-160) and it worked. By the way, I was looking right at from the the front but did not know .anyway, thanks again. this is a wonderful forum
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bdiddo
Hey Guys,
Thanks for all comments and suggestions. Went with a high quality puller (Snap-On) and a little heat (about !40-160) and it worked. By the way, I was looking right at from the the front but did not know .anyway, thanks again. this is a wonderful forum
People that don't own Snap-On think they're too expensive. They just don't understand. When you need a good tool and want it to last forever, Snap On, Matco and Mac are the way to go. Craftsman isn't even a close second. I own some Craftsman tools, but know their limitations.
Glad to hear you got it off.
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