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Well my clutch is finally on its last leg. I'm not sure how its lasted this long, but it has. So looking for suggestions. Spec 3, LS7 or what? I'm pushing right at 410 at the wheels just so you know.
My $0.02 are as follows... I have a heads/cam setup pushing 410 at the wheel, and I went with a Spec Stage 2+. The only complaint I have is that even after 1,500 miles or so, it still chatters from a stop if you try to burn it slowly, or if you are attempting to go up a steep hill. I can drive around the chatter, but if I had it to do all over again, I would have gone with a Textrailia. As far as grip and balance, it's fine. I can't comment on it's worthiness as anything more than a street clutch though, since I don't really track my car.
I think the Stage 2+ would be plenty of clutch for you, and from what I hear, the mannerisms get worse as you go higher up Spec's clutch list (ie. from 2+ to 3).
At your power level the LS7 would probably be enough clutch with perfect street manners. I weant with the Textralia OZ700, and am very happy. It takes a while for this clutch to break in and it took me a few days to learn the best way to drive it. After break in and learning the mannerisms of the clutch its great
Just installed the LS7 assy and love it. Great street manners, smooth and absolutely no chatter . Did the drill mod to the slave line and also had the remote bleeder installed while they were in there. Good to go.
Depends on how much you want to spend. I would recommend the Tex Z-Grip but you could also use the LS7 clutch. Don't forget to get a slave, pilot bearing, and remote bleeder. If you are 01 or earlier, I would replace the master as well.
Depends on how much you want to spend. I would recommend the Tex Z-Grip but you could also use the LS7 clutch. Don't forget to get a slave, pilot bearing, and remote bleeder. If you are 01 or earlier, I would replace the master as well.
Ok, newbe here. .could someone explain the "slave" and "remote bleeder"? Why would I need these? How long does the average clutch system last?
In our cars, we have a hydraulic clutch system. The slave cylinder is located at the front of the torque tube (basically, your drive shaft) and presses on your pressure plate. It has a hydraulic line that connects to the master cylinder which is where your clutch reservoir connects to. Since it is a large amount of work to replace the clutches in these cars it only makes since to replace the slave at the same time, considering the labor involved.
If you have the hands of a 5 month old girl and can contort them in 12 different ways, you will be able to bleed the clutch without a remote bleeder. The remote bleeder is a line that attaches to your slave that extends into your engine compartment allowing you to bleed the clutch like you would your brakes.
I am running an LS7 clutch in my C5 550 rwhp. I don't drag race the car but I drive it hard every day, love the clutch. I have a 670rwhp C4 w/ a McCleod dual disk, I hate it but it gets the car moving, it has about 1/4" of pedal modulation from off to on.
Just installed a Spec 3+ last week as I am 551 rwhp. Pedal is a little stiff and it picks up a little sooner than the stock one I had. I have almost 600 mi on it and the chatter is almost gone. It does take a few more rpms to get it start smoothly, but the few high rpm shifts I have done seem to be OK. I am off to Road Atlanta Monday, so I will see how it does when pushed for 30 mins.
i have an exedy twin disc...way overkill for my 430 rwhp set up..but if it holds 800 hp lingenfelter twin turbos...it should last a long time in my vette...
on my old frc that made around 400 rwhp i had a member install a ls7 clutch/slave....ran perfect. i sold the car to another member who road raced the car for a year...no issues. he sold the car to someone who is now drag racing the frc...going on 2+ yrs of hard racing...no issues..so bang for the buck i would say call gene and get the ls7 clutch set up.