diff/trans removal and jacking height question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
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From: St. Paul MN
Well I jacked it up to 19" (at the jackstand) (about 20" at the lowest point on the rear carriage) I didn't like the way it looked....it was too high....that makes me nervous. So I lowered it back down...now I'm at about 17" at the lowest point on the rear carriage. Looks to be plenty of room to slide the rear carriage out with the tranny jack. So just to clarify, if I don't have trouble removing the cradle this height should be good for everything else, correct?
Also I notice that there isn't a whole heck of a lot of wieght on the front suspension with the wieght on the jack stands. Does this make anybody nervous?
Also I notice that there isn't a whole heck of a lot of wieght on the front suspension with the wieght on the jack stands. Does this make anybody nervous?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul MN
Is anybody aware of a how-to write up that involves the removal of the auto transmission independent of the torque tube? I'm just curious how one accomplishes the removal of the bell-housing bolts (if that is what that is called). Even with the torque tube lowered it looks like this will be difficult as it apears it can only tilted a few degrees (worth a few inches at the back).
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
18-20" of height should be enough. There's actually a fair bit of room around the rear-end and transmission once you get the rear cradle and exhaust out of the way. There's more room to get the transmission off the torque tube then there is to get the torque tube off the engine.
The exhaust will come out no problem once you get the rear cradle off so having a lot of height for that is not an issue. Once the cradle and exhaust is off the transmission and rear-end can be pulled and then turned to come out the side through the wheel well opening. Lots of room to pull it out there when it's still on a jack.
Peter
The exhaust will come out no problem once you get the rear cradle off so having a lot of height for that is not an issue. Once the cradle and exhaust is off the transmission and rear-end can be pulled and then turned to come out the side through the wheel well opening. Lots of room to pull it out there when it's still on a jack.
Peter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
Is anybody aware of a how-to write up that involves the removal of the auto transmission independent of the torque tube? I'm just curious how one accomplishes the removal of the bell-housing bolts (if that is what that is called). Even with the torque tube lowered it looks like this will be difficult as it apears it can only tilted a few degrees (worth a few inches at the back).
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
There is less room on an A4 to get to the top bolts, but it can be done, just takes a few minutes.
How high is your front end? My earlier quote of 19 inches, I should have made it clearer, was for all 4 jacking points. If your front is lower, it will make for more clearance in back.
As for pucks, they don't work with heavy jacks. Harbor freight has some rubber covers for the jacks, I would suggest getting them.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul MN
I raised my rear to about 20.5" now...just wanted to makes sure it was high enough before I started tearing into the vehicle.
I have my jackstands set on my jacking pucks (hockey pucks). Looks pretty strudy, is this not a good idea?
I have my jackstands set on my jacking pucks (hockey pucks). Looks pretty strudy, is this not a good idea?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
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From: Elizabethtown
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: York PA
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul MN
I'm changing the rearend and converter in my car because of the absolutely dismal performance of the A4 equipped vette (most turbo charged 4 poopers today will absolutely destroy the A4 vette in the 1/4) The converter I'm going with is the Yank SS3600. I had been toying with the idea of swapping out the 3.42's with 3.73s as well, but this will have to wait. In addition, I've recently installed heads and cam and the loose converter should help a bit with the idle.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul MN
I'm changing the rearend and converter in my car because of the absolutely dismal performance of the A4 equipped vette (most turbo charged 4 poopers today will absolutely destroy the A4 vette in the 1/4) The converter I'm going with is the Yank SS3600. I had been toying with the idea of swapping out the 3.42's with 3.73s as well, but this will have to wait. In addition, I've recently installed heads and cam and the loose converter should help a bit with the idle.
I had a run-in with a WRX STI awhile back and I didn't like the outcome at all. We didn't run the whole 1/4 mile but the WRX ripped me so far out of the hole all I wanted to do was bury my head. Also had my nephew with me and he lost total respect for the vette....now I can't have that can I?
Last edited by verano29; Jun 3, 2008 at 09:46 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
I'm changing the rearend and converter in my car because of the absolutely dismal performance of the A4 equipped vette (most turbo charged 4 poopers today will absolutely destroy the A4 vette in the 1/4) The converter I'm going with is the Yank SS3600. I had been toying with the idea of swapping out the 3.42's with 3.73s as well, but this will have to wait. In addition, I've recently installed heads and cam and the loose converter should help a bit with the idle.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul MN
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
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From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
I'm at the dragstrip every week; and have seen these "turbo charged 4 poopers" that you speak of - barely break in the 13's .
A stock C5 A4 with 3.15 should do 13.2 to 13.3's all day long on factory tires.
your planned upgrades will make a big difference; But I think you're mistaken about what a stock C5 A4 can do.
.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul MN
I'm at the dragstrip every week; and have seen these "turbo charged 4 poopers" that you speak of - barely break in the 13's .
A stock C5 A4 with 3.15 should do 13.2 to 13.3's all day long on factory tires.
your planned upgrades will make a big difference; But I think you're mistaken about what a stock C5 A4 can do.
.
Hey Mike, I'm kind of following your how-to. What seals do you recommend I replace? The rearend is z06 unit from a '04 and has less than 10 miles on it. I was thinking to replace the front pump seal, rear shaft seal and the seal plate seal....any idea what the part numbers are?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
Unfortuneatly I'm running 2.73s. It would have to be a good day for my car (stock) to break into the 13's.