I have code 314441, I just changed out the battery last week and now I am getting service traction system, reduced engine power showing up on my DIC. Any advice?

 

Read this thread. It is not related to your problem, but tells you how to pull the codes. Look for Bill Curlee's post
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ding+DTC+codes
You will want to clear the codes, then drive the car to see what codes are current.
Post those codes. Then, people will be better able to help you.
Also you can do a search in the C5 tech archives, for "reduced engine power"

 

My advice would be to re-read the codes the car is throwing .......

A DTC code has the following format ...

P 1234 H

The first letter indicates the car system ... followed by 4 numbers ... and ends in a C or an H ...

Re-read the codes ... sounds like you have more than one.

 

OK it says 10-PCM 3 codes p111hc, p1571h, p1221h, c1278h.
28-TCS C1255h, C1277h, C1278h
AO-LDCM B2208h, B2282h, B2284h, U1064h, U1016h
BO-RFA U1255h, U1096h, U1064h, C2120h
Do any of these codes indicate my issues?
Thanks for the reply

 

Thanks to both of you!

 

P111hc .... you misread it .... no such code ... they are FOUR NUMBERS andd there is no P0111 ... try again

P1571 Traction Control Torque Request Circ
P1221 Throt Pos (TP) Sensor 1- 2 Correlation
C1278 TCS Tmporarily Inhibited By PCM ( A chassis (Cxxxx) code would not be set by the PCM ... the BCM would set this code ... you missed something here)

I'm gonna ignore the other codes for now .... IF you accurately wrote down the code ... the P1221 is your basic problem.

The Throttle has two position sensors in it. The two sensors are disagreeing where the throttle is actually positioned. This is due to either bad wiring (bad connection) to the throttle sensors, or a failing sensor. This failure causes the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message.

Check the wiring in the area of the throttle body. If no obvious problems.... post what year Corvettee you have and someone can look up the part number for a new sensor .... the sensors are easy to change.

 

I tried the cleaning off the contact points on the connectors, still shows reduced engine power. It was a P1111HC my bad I left out a 1, Its a 97 retired Highway Patrol car from OK, LS1 motor. I cleaned my engine when I installed the new battery with some silicone spray, not sure if its related, Im just brainstorming trying to fix it. Yeah if you can help me with the part number or any other possibilities, links with info I would be in your debt. Its killin me while shes broke

 

P1111 Int Air Tmp (IAT) Sensor Circ Interm Hi Volt

I'd look at the following wiring .....

In front of your throttle body is a section of ribbed flexible intake hose .... just in front of that is a hard plastic intake with the Corvette logo molded into it. look at the driver's side of that plastic piece and just in front of that ribbed hose there is a sensor (Intake Air Temperature) in the intake. Follow that wiring back and it should meet up with the wiring coming off the throttle body. INSPECT ALL OF THAT WIRING .... look at any connectors .... my guess is you got some fluid inside a connector on that left side of the engine. It would be a connector common to the IAT sensor and the throttle body wiring.

As a rule of thumb ... cleaning the engine compartment should not be done with water or other sprays. There is a lot of electronics in the engine compartment that does not take well to moisture. While Chevy did an OK job of weather sealing, I have seen more threads where problems started when someone "washed" or "cleaned" the engine bay. If you really want to clean something, put a cleaning agent onto a rag and then use the rag to wipe down the part you want to clean.

The throttle position sensor for a 1997 is part number 17113566 ... but the fact that both the IAT and the TP sensor went at the same time says you have a wiring problem.

 

P1111 Int Air Tmp (IAT) Sensor Circ Interm Hi Volt

I checked both connectors they looked clean, I blew them out with air, pushed the wires into connector to improve my odds if its a bad connection. I started the car no check engine light, I was stoked took it around the block it ran great until I got into my driveway Wabamm! Check Engine Light, Service Traction Sys, Reduced Engine Power. Is it possible my alternator is hosed and those sensors have a Hi Voltage issue? I bought the like 200.00 Duralast (mainly because it was red and l thought it would look cool and match the engine) I did see some other codes and Like a No Comm go across the display. Do you have an example of a charging system code? It says 14.2v after started, I thought that was a little high but ok. Is this path a possibility?

 

OK .... usually you will get a "charge system fault" message if the alternator is messing up.

Sounds more like a ground issue ...... give me 5 minutes and I'll post what to look at.

In the meantime .... when you display the codes ... they go rolling by, but then the system goes into MANUAL mode ... look here and see how to now scroll through the codes ... post any modules
saying "NO COMM"

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1

 

38-rtd No Comm

 

OK ... check these grounds first

G105 - it is located on the engine block on the left hand side ..... below the exhaust manifold ... it is toward the rear of the engine .. there is a bolt that holds a ground strap and another ground wire in placce.

G106 - it is located on the engine block on the right hand side .... almost exactly opposite (across from) where G105 is located.

Let's start with those two ....

 

Duh ... SORRY .... FIRST check your negative battery cable ... that the connection at the battery is good ... and also the connection to the car's frame is also good.

 

OK, I removed and cleaned all grounds, applied copper coating. After that I checked continuity between everything. Still no dice. It sounded like a simple enough task but not the case, I was up all night working on the grounding system. If other options exist I will persue them. I really do appreciate all of your help. O-Yeah the 38-RTD NO COMM what module is that?

 

RTD = Real Time Damping .... it is the computer that manages your shocks for your F45 suspension.

Try one other thing .... open the doors ... on each door (near the hinges) there is an accordian rubber connector that has wiring inside it. Take a look at the wiring and see if it has rubbed and been exposed. You can detach the accordion ends to get a better look at the wires. There is a wire in that bundle for each door controller that is part of the data network .... if that gets shorted all kinds of weird errors start appearing.

Also post all of your current codes ... I'll see if I can find any common "areas" that the codes might point to.

Keep us posted and good luck ....

 

Still thinking about it .... inspect the PCM wiring .... I'm wondering if coincidentally to cleaning the engine the PCM wiring started to fail.

To access the PCM ....

1) Remove front tire, passenger.
2) Remove shield that wraps lower back of wheel well and under vehicle a few inches.
Completely remove this piece.
3) Remove the two bolts that hold the side air duct flap in and remove it.
4) PCM will then be in view. Remove two 7mm screws on bracket holding it in.
5) Remove two wiring harnesses, think they are 8mm.

The PCM is located below the battery area and in some cars acid leaks have attacked the wiring harness. See if there is any sign of problems around the PCM wiring.

 

OK, I think this is good news. I bought the (IAT) Sensor this morning and repleced it; they did not have the TPS at my local chevy dealer or Oreilly's. I fired it up after replacing the (IAT) Sensor, I still have the check engine light but no reduced engine power. I drove it for about 20 miles seems to run normal. I am 10 kinds of stoked that its running, but in the back of my mind I know I still have some probs. I cant thank you enough for the help. I will post my current codes shortly

 

Excellent news ... try deleting ALL DTC currently set in the car (that should turn off the CEL ... and give her another run and let's see what resets.

 

One thing you can check. There have been numerous cases of one of the wires that goes to the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor breaking inside of the insulation. It causes the intermittent problems you are having and it is very hard to detect. Start at the IAT sensor itself and flex the wires, see if one of them seems to bend easily, like there is nothing inside. If so, just cut and splice the wire.

 

Wooo Hooo OK, I cleared out all of the codes drove it around town for like an hour all was well and then it did it again. So I kept reseting it and hobbled to the auto parts store. I bought the connector for the IAT sensor spliced it in and checked continuity as far back as I could on both legs. I took it out on the highway and drove for another hour, no codes no CEL. I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed but I think its fixed. Thanks to all who replied and helped. I also tested the original connector and it was flakey the orange wire was kinked at the base of the connector I had my meter hooked to it and would move the wire I could see the connection make and brake. Seriously guys thanks for the help. I wish I could repay you for your time and effort.