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Lowering and adjusting ride height with driver weight
Point of interest when lowering our cars and measuring side to side heights. Make sure you measure with a drivers weight in the car.
My rear bolts are all the way to the lowest lowered point (both nuts even and 2 threads showing under the clip) but the LR sits 1/2 lower than the RR with no driver in car. With me in the car the LR sits 1" lower than the RR.
I knew I was off side to side some but wasn't sure how much until I had my son sit in the car tonight and take some measurements (I was surprised the LR went 1/2" lower with 215 lbs in the seat and RR maybe 1/8" lower making side to side difference 1").
I cant lower the LR anymore as that will throw the rake of the car off too much where rear is lower than the front at the jacking points so ill bump up the LR height some and lower the RR some to try and level it out. Its too bad I cant get the front any lower and then id just drop the rear more to compensate and keep rake at 3/8" (C6 bolts used up front and as low as it will go)
Fronts are within about 3/8" with driver in car so I might bump up passenger side a little to even that out as well.
Last edited by briann510; Jun 18, 2008 at 03:30 PM.
What happens if you have a passanger or are you setting it up for track use by yourself?
It would be sweet if there was a way to adjust height from the driver's seat. Living off of a dirt road I really can't lower my vette, but it would be nice if I could once on a REAL road.
I very rarely have a passenger with me and if I do its my wife and she only weighs 125 lbs. I think my wife has only been a passenger 3 times in it in the last 3 years so no biggie.
After trying to level out the LF/RR which then throws the LF/RF measurements off its impossible to get everything even side to side on this car. If I get the rears even then I have to adjust the fronts cause they are off which then again throws the rear heights off....its a never ending battle. I guess I'm just gonna have to leave it somewhat "close" and just align it with me in it and call it a day.
After trying to level out the LF/RR which then throws the LF/RF measurements off its impossible to get everything even side to side on this car. If I get the rears even then I have to adjust the fronts cause they are off which then again throws the rear heights off....its a never ending battle. I guess I'm just gonna have to leave it somewhat "close" and just align it with me in it and call it a day.
Well not quite Not heights but cross wt.
You want the cross wts, LF & RR total to be close to the RF and LR total
Rear should be ~ 1/4" to 3/8" higher then the front
Not the ride height guys. No offense but something is going to be very upset suspension wise.
Might be time to look for a speed shop that can do corner weighting, ride height adjustment and an alignment.
Right now the rear is higher by a little over 1/4" measured at the frame puck holes with no driver weight in car on each side (same exact measurements side to side front and rear).
Measuring for "visual" wheel opening space is obviously not the way to correctly set the car up suspension wise (I knew that but was hoping for a even visual look side to side). My rake on both sides is even now with my minor adjustments to rear bolts and now the rear frame at puck holes is sitting higher at 5/16" with no driver. Thats as close as its gonna get and visually the left side looks good and right side looks good in wheel well opening space they just aren't even between the 2 sides which no one is gonna notice anyway.
What I find a little odd is the bolts used to raise and lower the rear are so far off adjustment wise but car rake is perfect front to rear/side to side measured at frame holes. Got about 1/2" of threads showing on left bolt and no threads on right one.
Last edited by briann510; Jun 18, 2008 at 12:19 PM.
Correct they are NOT the same, almost 1/4" difference in circumference.
Yea I knew the front to rear wheel opening circumferences are different and im not trying to make those the same visually, but I meant the left rear to right rear measurements are 1/2" off wheel opening wise. No biggie as long as I got the rake right front to rear and side to side even.
Can you tell I have a lot of spare time on my hands...LOL
I have a lift and made sure it was level before starting then measured up to the frame rails, control arms, transmission case, measured the wheel openings, measured the frame at the jacking points to the lift--
AAAAAAHHHH!!!! this will drive you nuts! Ended up lowering the front 1/2" and the rear 3/4" removed one section on the rear adjustment pad!
Ive also got a lift and finally got the Vette up on it to check all the measurements out. Its obvious every car is different but its interesting to see what the actual differences are measurement wise when both front and rear adjustment bolts are all at the same amount of turns. I have 4 corner Lonacre digital scales on loan to someone and will get them back to do some corner weight checks.
Never really heard of ride height adjustment considering drivers weight, but I think it's a good idea.
I do know (from race experience) that when you have them aligned, that the driver should be in the seat for a "right on" alignment.
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