c5 power steering issue
Here's the process ....
1) Fill reservoir to FULL COLD mark
2) Attach vacuum pump to reservoir
3) Apply a vacuum of 20 in Hg
4) Wait 5 minutes (pressure change of about 2 in Hg)
5) Remove vacuum pump and replace cap on reservoir
6) Start engine and idle for 30 seconds
7) Turn off engine
8) Verify fluid level (top off as needed to FULL COLD)
9) Repeat 2 through 8 until fluid level stabilizes - put cap on reservoir
IMPORTANT - DO NOT TURN STEERING LOCK TO LOCK
10) Start engine and allow to idle
11) Turn steering wheel 1/2 to 1 turn in each direction. Do this 5 times
12) Turn off engine
13) Verify fluid level (top off as needed)
14) Install vacuum pump and apply 20 in Hg vacuum for 5 minutes.
15) Verify fluid level (top off as needed)
16) Repeat 10 through 15 until fluid level stabilizes
17) cap the reservoir.
See if that works for you.
Last edited by BlackZ06; Jun 21, 2008 at 04:35 PM.
Here's the process ....
1) Fill reservoir to FULL COLD mark
2) Attach vacuum pump to reservoir
3) Apply a vacuum of 20 in Hg
4) Wait 5 minutes (pressure change of about 2 in Hg)
5) Remove vacuum pump and replace cap on reservoir
6) Start engine and idle for 30 seconds
7) Turn off engine
8) Verify fluid level (top off as needed to FULL COLD)
9) Repeat 2 through 8 until fluid level stabilizes - put cap on reservoir
IMPORTANT - DO NOT TURN STEERING LOCK TO LOCK
10) Start engine and allow to idle
11) Turn steering wheel 1/2 to 1 turn in each direction. Do this 5 times
12) Turn off engine
13) Verify fluid level (top off as needed)
14) Install vacuum pump and apply 20 in Hg vacuum for 5 minutes.
15) Verify fluid level (top off as needed)
16) Repeat 10 through 15 until fluid level stabilizes
17) cap the reservoir.
See if that works for you.

You need some kind of "stopper" that you can put in the top of the reservoir (cap area) with the vacuum hose routed through the stopper. maybe some kind of clamp could be used on the hose to "seal" that vacuum once the pump has achieved the right level.
I'd be cautious of trying to get a "pure" vacuum like you try to get with the A/C system .... I don't know if the reservoir is strong enough for that.
Good luck with it ..... I suspect once you get the majority of the air out, the rest will naturally be purged as you drive the car .... just watch your fluid level for the first day or two after the system is working.
You need some kind of "stopper" that you can put in the top of the reservoir (cap area) with the vacuum hose routed through the stopper. maybe some kind of clamp could be used on the hose to "seal" that vacuum once the pump has achieved the right level.
I'd be cautious of trying to get a "pure" vacuum like you try to get with the A/C system .... I don't know if the reservoir is strong enough for that.
Good luck with it ..... I suspect once you get the majority of the air out, the rest will naturally be purged as you drive the car .... just watch your fluid level for the first day or two after the system is working.

Wonder if what you suggest would help with my issue as well?
PS - if so, where would be the best place to buy a vacuum pump for this? I guess I would have to buy a spare PS Reservoir Cap and modify it?
You need some kind of "stopper" that you can put in the top of the reservoir (cap area) with the vacuum hose routed through the stopper. maybe some kind of clamp could be used on the hose to "seal" that vacuum once the pump has achieved the right level.
I'd be cautious of trying to get a "pure" vacuum like you try to get with the A/C system .... I don't know if the reservoir is strong enough for that.
Good luck with it ..... I suspect once you get the majority of the air out, the rest will naturally be purged as you drive the car .... just watch your fluid level for the first day or two after the system is working.

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Wonder if what you suggest would help with my issue as well?
PS - if so, where would be the best place to buy a vacuum pump for this? I guess I would have to buy a spare PS Reservoir Cap and modify it?
Here's what I'd do .....
First, check the car to see if any DTC have set by using the DIC procedure. The EBCM, for example, controls the Magnasteer (variable steering effort) function in the car, and a failure of your Steering Wheel Position Sensor will set a DTC in the EBCM, and cause your steering to feel different.
Second, yes, try bleeding the system. Most auto supply places sell inexpensive hand vacuum pumps (one is called Mity Vac ... it is just a "pistol" pump (squeeze your hand closed and you are "pumping" the system) that has a vacuum gauge on it. Kinda looks a little like a pistol with a gauge on top of the barrel and a hose (plastic tube) coming out of where the bullet would normally exit. Then you need a stopper large enough to fit into the top of the reservoir. Some vacuum pumps come with some stoppers ... if not ..... Home Depot/Loews ... plumbing supply shops should carry these ..... just measure the diameter of the opening on the reservoir and get a stopper of a size that will close that opening (if the opening is 3.4271 inches across then a stopper with a base of 2 inches and a top of 4 inches will work perfectly.). Drill a hole through the stopper the diameter of the tube from the vacuum pump and feed the tube through the stopper. Use a sealant if there are leaks around the tube/stopper interface.
Nothing has to be "perfect". So long as you are generating good "suction" on the power steering fluid and can keep that suction up for roughly 5 minutes (maybe you have to pump the handle every 10 seconds on the pump) then it will work.
If you decide, after trying for 19 hours and 47 minutes, that there is no air in the system (
) then the THIRD step is to have the power steering pump tested. Almost any dealer (Chevy, Pontiac, Ford) and independant shop should be able to do this. The two things they test for are pressure (PSI) and flow rate (GPM). If you find an independant shop that will test the car, post and someone can give you the appropriate measurements to look for.If the car passes all three tests (no DTC, bleeding, PS pump) then the problem is mechanical in either the rack and pinion system or in the suspension. If you've gotten that far, post again, we can help you figure out the mechanical source of the problem.
Last edited by BlackZ06; Jun 23, 2008 at 11:08 AM.
Here's what I'd do .....
First, check the car to see if any DTC have set by using the DIC procedure. The EBCM, for example, controls the Magnasteer (variable steering effort) function in the car, and a failure of your Steering Wheel Position Sensor will set a DTC in the EBCM, and cause your steering to feel different.
Second, yes, try bleeding the system. Most auto supply places sell inexpensive hand vacuum pumps (one is called Mity Vac ... it is just a "pistol" pump (squeeze your hand closed and you are "pumping" the system) that has a vacuum gauge on it. Kinda looks a little like a pistol with a gauge on top of the barrel and a hose (plastic tube) coming out of where the bullet would normally exit. Then you need a stopper large enough to fit into the top of the reservoir. Some vacuum pumps come with some stoppers ... if not ..... Home Depot/Loews ... plumbing supply shops should carry these ..... just measure the diameter of the opening on the reservoir and get a stopper of a size that will close that opening (if the opening is 3.4271 inches across then a stopper with a base of 2 inches and a top of 4 inches will work perfectly.). Drill a hole through the stopper the diameter of the tube from the vacuum pump and feed the tube through the stopper. Use a sealant if there are leaks around the tube/stopper interface.
Nothing has to be "perfect". So long as you are generating good "suction" on the power steering fluid and can keep that suction up for roughly 5 minutes (maybe you have to pump the handle every 10 seconds on the pump) then it will work.
If you decide, after trying for 19 hours and 47 minutes, that there is no air in the system (
) then the THIRD step is to have the power steering pump tested. Almost any dealer (Chevy, Pontiac, Ford) and independant shop should be able to do this. The two things they test for are pressure (PSI) and flow rate (GPM). If you find an independant shop that will test the car, post and someone can give you the appropriate measurements to look for.If the car passes all three tests (no DTC, bleeding, PS pump) then the problem is mechanical in either the rack and pinion system or in the suspension. If you've gotten that far, post again, we can help you figure out the mechanical source of the problem.

Here's what I'd do .....
First, check the car to see if any DTC have set by using the DIC procedure. The EBCM, for example, controls the Magnasteer (variable steering effort) function in the car, and a failure of your Steering Wheel Position Sensor will set a DTC in the EBCM, and cause your steering to feel different.
Second, yes, try bleeding the system. Most auto supply places sell inexpensive hand vacuum pumps (one is called Mity Vac ... it is just a "pistol" pump (squeeze your hand closed and you are "pumping" the system) that has a vacuum gauge on it. Kinda looks a little like a pistol with a gauge on top of the barrel and a hose (plastic tube) coming out of where the bullet would normally exit. Then you need a stopper large enough to fit into the top of the reservoir. Some vacuum pumps come with some stoppers ... if not ..... Home Depot/Loews ... plumbing supply shops should carry these ..... just measure the diameter of the opening on the reservoir and get a stopper of a size that will close that opening (if the opening is 3.4271 inches across then a stopper with a base of 2 inches and a top of 4 inches will work perfectly.). Drill a hole through the stopper the diameter of the tube from the vacuum pump and feed the tube through the stopper. Use a sealant if there are leaks around the tube/stopper interface.
Nothing has to be "perfect". So long as you are generating good "suction" on the power steering fluid and can keep that suction up for roughly 5 minutes (maybe you have to pump the handle every 10 seconds on the pump) then it will work.
If you decide, after trying for 19 hours and 47 minutes, that there is no air in the system (
) then the THIRD step is to have the power steering pump tested. Almost any dealer (Chevy, Pontiac, Ford) and independant shop should be able to do this. The two things they test for are pressure (PSI) and flow rate (GPM). If you find an independant shop that will test the car, post and someone can give you the appropriate measurements to look for.If the car passes all three tests (no DTC, bleeding, PS pump) then the problem is mechanical in either the rack and pinion system or in the suspension. If you've gotten that far, post again, we can help you figure out the mechanical source of the problem.

Purchased a Rubber Stopper at Home Depot tonight, drilled a hole in it and pushed a hose down through the middle of the plug and connected the other end to an old hand vacuum pump that I had never used. Pumped it up to 20 psig and I could hear and feel the air coming up ever so often. Car steers like a dream now. Many thanks for this post!
A couple other associated things to mention...
The car also was riding really rough in the front end going down the street - like the tires were out of balance (but I knew that was not the case). It did that ever since I left the Dealership after they switched out the Steering Rack. Could air in the steering lines have been causing that effect? Because it went away immediately after I purged the air from the system? Now the car steers easier AND the steering wheel is no longer fighting me somewhat going down the road.
One other thing I noticed was that it was harder to steer to the left than the right - now it is about the same.











