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Now that's messed up !! All that JUST to change the clutch !!!
Actually its not all that bad imo but then again i said the same thing as you before i did it the 1st time
Originally Posted by Tech
If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it. You have a better chance of the replacement seal going bad (installation problem or other) than you do of the factory seal. Whether you change the front cover seal or not is up to you. Since the part is already coming off, I replace it. That's not the case of the rear main.
I've never heard of NOT replacing the real seal during a clutch job... I've done many many a rear seal, every time I have a tranny off. Just never on an LS1. And I have never had a rear seal leak after installing a new one. Is this an LS1 specific thing or do you just think I don't know what I'm doing? hahaha. Thank you so much for your input though guys. Oh, and is LMPerformance a good place to buy my Spec Stage 3?
ok, just read a write up of the job. Looks like a piece of cake. I'm looking for a target time of 7 hours start to finish because I'm unfamiliar with the car. Maybe not even...
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by Targa98
ok, just read a write up of the job. Looks like a piece of cake. I'm looking for a target time of 7 hours start to finish because I'm unfamiliar with the car. Maybe not even...
Betcha a buck you're wrong.
I gave myself 10 hours and it turned out to be a 2 day job with 90 minutes extra on monday morning to drill out a broken exhaust stud and replace it with a nut and bolt.
I'm a certified Jeep Tech with a year of GM dealership experience to boot.
so you guys wouldn't change the rear main on a 97 vette with 48k miles?
The thing is moving on 12 yrs old.
I seem to recall reading an article about both the front and rear crank seals needing to be PRECISELY installed, otherwise there'd be a good chance of leakage. It's not the same as the old small blocks, and just "slide a new one in".
Therefore, IMHO, if it's not leaking now, leave it be.....
I seem to recall reading an article about both the front and rear crank seals needing to be PRECISELY installed, otherwise there'd be a good chance of leakage. It's not the same as the old small blocks, and just "slide a new one in".
Therefore, IMHO, if it's not leaking now, leave it be.....
There is an installation tool to ensure correct installation.
The Service Manual also warns not to get oil on the surfaces where the crankshaft and seal meet. Oil should only be used to lubricate the OD of the seal where it meets the rear cover.
ok, just read a write up of the job. Looks like a piece of cake. I'm looking for a target time of 7 hours start to finish because I'm unfamiliar with the car. Maybe not even...
ok, just read a write up of the job. Looks like a piece of cake. I'm looking for a target time of 7 hours start to finish because I'm unfamiliar with the car. Maybe not even...
Took me about 13-14 total hours with 2 other ppl helping me, but we did take our time on it and there was a week delay while I had my FW turned, etc.
Originally Posted by dmiz0420
so you guys wouldn't change the rear main on a 97 vette with 48k miles?
The thing is moving on 12 yrs old.
If its not leaking then I would not do it but thats just me, my 00 coupe had 61k and it was fine
I've done a couple of clutch replacements on C5s with a couple of buddies and a drivetrain upgrade alone on my A4 and none were what I would call tough - a lot of work, but not tough. It's actually more interesting on a vette due to the modular construction of the car.
Yes, I have a lift now but I paid my dues working on cars on jackstands on my back on cold, hard concrete for many years. The lift definitely makes it easier, safer and more fun.
From: Life moves pretty fast... if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it!
CI 6-8-9 Veteran
Originally Posted by stainless40cal
Good luck with moving the motor foward. Pulling the rear and trans/torque tube reallly isnt that bad i have done it 3 times now .
I could tear it down and have it completly out now in about 2 hours with a set of extra hands. Dont even try to do it by yourself. It can be done but its not fun.
[IMG][/IMG]
If you have any questions just ask ill try to help as much as i can.
Looks much worse than it is. Just keep track of all of the cable routing and connectors. Zuti
I am about to replace the clutch on a C5 using the old garage floor, jackstands and no help. What are the tricks you guys are talking about? The GM manual has me pretty intimidated
Also somethings to note, your going to need to rent a blind hole puller kit from AutoZone to get the pilot bearing out, also another tricky little spot is getting the Hydrualic quick disconnect line apart, I found a little tool at Orielys Auto called a Hydrualic line disconnect tool " FORD" it worked like a charm was apart in about 20 Seconds. Some guys on the forum have struggled hours getting that apart.
just finished my clutch swap on the floor with jackstands, and some help. It's not that big a deal. I would recommend a transmission jack (Harbor Freight has one for under $100) and you will need a blind puller. The correct GM disconnect tool can be purchased at NAPA for under $10.
I am about to replace the clutch on a C5 using the old garage floor, jackstands and no help. What are the tricks you guys are talking about? The GM manual has me pretty intimidated
Also somethings to note, your going to need to rent a blind hole puller kit from AutoZone to get the pilot bearing out, also another tricky little spot is getting the Hydrualic quick disconnect line apart, I found a little tool at Orielys Auto called a Hydrualic line disconnect tool " FORD" it worked like a charm was apart in about 20 Seconds. Some guys on the forum have struggled hours getting that apart.
You can use a 15mm open wrench on the quick disconnect if your a cheap azz or order one from Summit for like $10 bucks.
GM has a special tool for the pilot bushing removal. I have one and it works like a dream. Takes about 2 minutes to remove bushing.
Thanks for all of the responses. I am in Saginaw, MI. I used to run professional touring circuit round-track so can handle a wrench BUT after reading all of the GM tear apart info and all of the special tools needed I started having second thoughts. Can't really not do it, can't afford to pay someone else and it has to be done. Plus my pride wouldn't let me buy it done. Hope you guys are all around in the coming month for suggestions. Thanks!
Thanks for all of the responses. I am in Saginaw, MI. I used to run professional touring circuit round-track so can handle a wrench BUT after reading all of the GM tear apart info and all of the special tools needed I started having second thoughts. Can't really not do it, can't afford to pay someone else and it has to be done. Plus my pride wouldn't let me buy it done. Hope you guys are all around in the coming month for suggestions. Thanks!
It's really not to bad.
-Get some ramps and drive the front up on to them.
-Get a floor jack and a 2x4 for the rear cross-member and jack up the car as high as you can get and then support it with jack stands.