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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 01:29 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by RichAshley-Black99
Just did mine for a second time and not bad at all, if you have longtubes it takes a little longer because they have to be pulled.

Rich
I did not have to remove mine, just un bolted them and moved them off to the side, clutch came out from the bottom of the bellhousing.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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With the help of all you guys and lots of private encouragement my trans/rear/torque tube package is now resting on the garage floor. What an experience! I hope I don't have to do anything like that again. Now all I have to do is figure out how to put it all back in.
Thanks to everyone
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by graybeard28
With the help of all you guys and lots of private encouragement my trans/rear/torque tube package is now resting on the garage floor. What an experience! I hope I don't have to do anything like that again. Now all I have to do is figure out how to put it all back in.
Thanks to everyone

The fun part is just getting started!
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 01:22 AM
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I wonder if its easier to install the torque tube separate from the transmission/diff?(if you re working alone and don t have an extra set of hands) -?? If anyone knows, I would like to know, myself. Graybeard28- Now is the time to install a Differential/transmission brace, if you re gonna do it.(or Nitrous lines that will run next to the torque tube, hidden by the tunnel plate)- Im doing a clutch/DTE brace/Nitrous install on mine right now, myself. Good Luck! - Jason
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by intoc6s
I wonder if its easier to install the torque tube separate from the transmission/diff?(if you re working alone and don t have an extra set of hands) -?? If anyone knows, I would like to know, myself. Graybeard28- Now is the time to install a Differential/transmission brace, if you re gonna do it.(or Nitrous lines that will run next to the torque tube, hidden by the tunnel plate)- Im doing a clutch/DTE brace/Nitrous install on mine right now, myself. Good Luck! - Jason
My car is strictly stock. I don't know what a trans brace is and I doubt I will need it. Thanks for the suggestion. I think as soon as I get this thing on all four feet it will go up for sale. I will look for something that is more practical and fun to work on. I am too old for all of this new technology.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #66  
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Just my .25 on the job, you may want to pull that torque tube off (not bad to do when its all out) and check those torque tube couplers. Mine were headed to the boneyard in the sky when I opened mine up. Not expensive from some of the vendors on here (especially if you go the BMW version versus the GM version ....I know, the debate rages on...but they work). Its three more bolts now or a LOT later.

Good luck, I know you can get it back in. I used my rear anti-sway bar as a motorcycle handle and "drove" my assembly back into place, little by little. Allowed for any rotation I needed too. Use a jack to move the back of the motor up and down to start that pilot/shaft connection as you guide it back in. Watch for wiring.

Whole job was 9-10 hours for me. That included AJG1915's tools and guidance and a rebuild on the torque tube. Took me more time to order all the parts! The remote bleeder is a MUST unless you like suffering

Cassidy
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by C4B4the04
Just my .25 on the job, you may want to pull that torque tube off (not bad to do when its all out) and check those torque tube couplers. Mine were headed to the boneyard in the sky when I opened mine up. Not expensive from some of the vendors on here (especially if you go the BMW version versus the GM version ....I know, the debate rages on...but they work). Its three more bolts now or a LOT later.

Good luck, I know you can get it back in. I used my rear anti-sway bar as a motorcycle handle and "drove" my assembly back into place, little by little. Allowed for any rotation I needed too. Use a jack to move the back of the motor up and down to start that pilot/shaft connection as you guide it back in. Watch for wiring.

Whole job was 9-10 hours for me. That included AJG1915's tools and guidance and a rebuild on the torque tube. Took me more time to order all the parts! The remote bleeder is a MUST unless you like suffering

Cassidy
Getting the pilot bushing out was a bitch. I broke a cheap puller and spent the better part of 2 1/2 days playing with it, using what I had, until I finally broke down and bought a good one. Took about two minutes--don't know when I will ever learn. Most good jobs can't be done on the cheap. Clutch is in. I pulled the torque tube and am putting it in separate from the trans/rear. Don't know what kind of time or trouble I am getting into but it just seemed easier to wrestle the TT into the clutch instead of all that additional weight. When you are by yourself you look for any ray of hope. Hope I don't end up pulling it down and putting it on the trans. I can't even calculate hours. Just go out for the amount of time it takes to get cold or frustrated. Insurance doesn't go back on until May so there is no rush.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by graybeard28
Getting the pilot bushing out was a bitch. I broke a cheap puller and spent the better part of 2 1/2 days playing with it, using what I had, until I finally broke down and bought a good one. Took about two minutes--don't know when I will ever learn. Most good jobs can't be done on the cheap. Clutch is in. I pulled the torque tube and am putting it in separate from the trans/rear. Don't know what kind of time or trouble I am getting into but it just seemed easier to wrestle the TT into the clutch instead of all that additional weight. When you are by yourself you look for any ray of hope. Hope I don't end up pulling it down and putting it on the trans. I can't even calculate hours. Just go out for the amount of time it takes to get cold or frustrated. Insurance doesn't go back on until May so there is no rush.
Just stick with it Clyde, you seem to be making good progress. When you get to putting on the transmission to the torque tube just line up the splines and slide it up. I used two of those quick press clamps to pull it together while I put in a couple of bolts.
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #69  
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For all of you guys who helped me with advice and encouragement. Thanks!!
I put the interior back together this morning, bled the clutch and rolled it out of the garage this morning. Would have liked to drive further than my driveway but it is 7 degrees and the weekend snow hasn't been plowed off the road yet. At least I don't have any parts left over.
Thanks again.
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 11:19 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by graybeard28
For all of you guys who helped me with advice and encouragement. Thanks!!
I put the interior back together this morning, bled the clutch and rolled it out of the garage this morning. Would have liked to drive further than my driveway but it is 7 degrees and the weekend snow hasn't been plowed off the road yet. At least I don't have any parts left over.
Thanks again.
Congrats Clyde, now that you have tackled that issue it will be easier the next time something up. Spring is around the corner.

Tony
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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Congrats
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by intoc6s
I wonder if its easier to install the torque tube separate from the transmission/diff?(if you re working alone and don t have an extra set of hands) -?? If anyone knows, I would like to know, myself. Graybeard28- Now is the time to install a Differential/transmission brace, if you re gonna do it.(or Nitrous lines that will run next to the torque tube, hidden by the tunnel plate)- Im doing a clutch/DTE brace/Nitrous install on mine right now, myself. Good Luck! - Jason
I've been having better luck doing it this way. Putting the trans onto the TT then is still an issue, but you can get to the bolts pretty easy. Then I used a ratcheting strap to help me push them together.

Graybeard, way to go! You beat me, I still have to put the exhaust on, tomorrow night maybe... it 65 deg here today, so have to get out and see the sun rather than lay on my back on the cold concrete.
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 03:21 PM
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It is 49 degrees, and the sun is out--you would almost think it is Spring. Anyway, the road is mostly dry so I was able to drive the car. What a difference!! No chunking, no clatter. Just a smooth, ordinary, no dramatics roll away. I kept waiting for some strange noise and yet I was able to almost forget completely what it felt and sounded like last summer. How easily and quickly we are able to put up with things that shouldn't be. It drives like a real, everyday car. I used to dread having to stop because I was embarassed about the starts. Maybe this summer I can have fun with it. My wife and I are scheduled to take the Hot Rod Magazine Power Tour.
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by intoc6s
I wonder if its easier to install the torque tube separate from the transmission/diff?(if you re working alone and don t have an extra set of hands) -?? If anyone knows, I would like to know, myself. Graybeard28- Now is the time to install a Differential/transmission brace, if you re gonna do it.(or Nitrous lines that will run next to the torque tube, hidden by the tunnel plate)- Im doing a clutch/DTE brace/Nitrous install on mine right now, myself. Good Luck! - Jason
I've done it both ways, and I think the decision should depend on whether or not you're doing the job on a lift. The first time, I had access to a friend's lift, and with a tall tranny jack, you can lift the tt/tranny/diff/cradle in place as one big assembly. Stabbing the torque tube can be challenging, but you just have to get everything lined up correctly.

The last time I did it, the car was on jack stands, and I found it easier to stab the torque tube first, then lift the tranny/diff in place (already bolted together), and lastly bolt the rear cradle in.

The downside to doing it separately is, if you have a differential strut brace, you have to wait to install it until everything is in the car, as it is held in place by the bolts that connect the tranny to the torque tube.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Numb
I've done it both ways, and I think the decision should depend on whether or not you're doing the job on a lift. The first time, I had access to a friend's lift, and with a tall tranny jack, you can lift the tt/tranny/diff/cradle in place as one big assembly. Stabbing the torque tube can be challenging, but you just have to get everything lined up correctly.

The last time I did it, the car was on jack stands, and I found it easier to stab the torque tube first, then lift the tranny/diff in place (already bolted together), and lastly bolt the rear cradle in.

The downside to doing it separately is, if you have a differential strut brace, you have to wait to install it until everything is in the car, as it is held in place by the bolts that connect the tranny to the torque tube.
If I can interject--since I just finished this job, I can use my vast knowledge (with apologies to all those guys who helped me). This was one of the easiest things I did. I was on my back, head under the clutch: two hands on the snout of the TT and my knees supporting the other end. It slid in so easy--too easy because it wanted to slide right back out. I had to strain with one arm and search around with the other to find a bolt to screw in, to hold it. After that it was just as easy to support the trans/rear with one jack and jack up the spline of the trans with another. Again, it was just finding the correct angle and it slid right in. All toll, after putting the clutch in it probably didn't take another hour to do TT to trans/rear and bolt the cradle in place on the frame.
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