It looks more intimidating then it really is youll be fine

 

Again thanks for the responses. I have already downloaded the visual instructions. helps a lot seeing what is being said. Even more so, seeing how it is possible to mess it up.
Thanks

 

I just read your instructions, not exactly GM garage manual but I like your style--if it doesn't work the first time, get a bigger hammer. Another question. I have heard (I really should have done more reading about this generation of small block) that the crank isn't balanced and there is not indexing hole on the flywheel. How do I know where to install the new flywheel and pressure plate if there is no balancing index? I also read in the manual about adjusting the pressure plate before you put it in? You didn't mention this

 

I think the flywheel can only go on one way. It's been awhile but I think the bolt pattern on the crank was off set or there was a pin. Everything is supposed to be zero balanced. Be sure to check your old flywheel for filled in holes(weight) and then add the weights to your new flywheel. Or resurface your original flywheel. My case I had no added weights and the light weight FW was zero balanced so I had no extra steps to do. It seems more people have no added weight but there are the oddball cases.

I jacked my car up too high and the jacks were at the upper limit so I had to add some blocks of wood. So don't go too high. I also used 2 ratcheting straps to pull the rear end with torque tube back in place. Worked well. Watch the hydraulic line for the clutch when you reinstall it. It swivels and I had mine in the wrong position and had to separate the torque tube and reposition the hose. It it's pointed the wrong way it's too short and you can't reconnect the quick disconnect. The quick disconnect for the master to the slave line was a real biotch. Some have no problems.

The pilot bearing wasn't easy. Go borrow the 5 lb slide hammer from Auto zone. They have a Great Neck pilot bearing remover for the 5 lb hammer. It was a little big and I had to grind down the fingers a bit to fit the hole in the bearing but after two slams I had it out. I had borrowed a pilot bearing puller from Advanced Discount but it was a waste of time. The fingers kept popping out. It was a screw type puller and I had to grind on the fingers of it to try and get a grip but it just wouldn't work.

It's a straight forward job and isn't that bad. There is an intimidating fear factor before the first time but after you're done you see the fear was for nothing.

I installed a Centerforce Dual friction and there is no adjusting the pressure plate. The PP will only bolt one way to the FW. Be sure to get a clutch install tool to align the clutch disc with the pilot bearing.

 

About the flywheel, I took the old setup with clutch and the new to a machine shop and had the new one balanced to match the old specs. If you look at your flywheel youll find some weights that were added when they balanced the engine from the factory....so your new should match the old to avoid a balance issue, Well upon reinstall I wasnt sure which way the flywheel went on so I installed it where I thought it was... Well I ended up having a vibration issue that strated at 1800 RPM all the way up. That sucked! I tore it apart again and I believe it will go on a number of ways but there is an eyehole on the crank " with no threads " that matches an odd hole on the flywheel I made sure those were lined up and installed it that way and my vibration issue disappeared. Just be sure to mark the position of the flywheel when you remove it. and install it in the same place upon reinstall.. This is just what my experience has been and in no way am I an expert.

 

I am working on my clutch install right now I am 8 hours into it and just got the new clutch in, tomorrow will be re-assembly, so 5 more hours puts me at about 13 or so hours. WOW alot of work for me being inexperienced but not too bad to do so far. Can't wait to get her going again, then wont need to worry when I get my new cam!

 

Let me ask you guys another question. I am 60 years old, have been tearing apart small blocks since I was 14. I raced 6 years on a touring circuit (round track). Yet I have experienced something I have never run into before with this car. At this point I am just assuming clutch because I don't know what else to think. It has come on slow but when I attempt to pull away from a standing stop (forward or reverse) I get a chunking/chattering like the first time you have ever stepped on a clutch.
My only experience with bad clutches is the tach spins way up and you get a good whiff of odor/smoke. Classic slipping clutch. What is it with this chunking?

 

Sounds like it might be torque tube bushings; but that is jest an educated guess. I am sure someone more knowledgable will step in. If you still have the TT out, you might want to check them.

 

The flywheel only goes on one way, the holes to bolt it to the crank shaft only allow you to place it one spot.

I'm not sure why you're goung to adjust the currentinstalled pressure plate settings when you got the dang car in pieces. If you were going to attempt that, you would pull the inspection cover off and do that before trying to replace the clutch.

I figured you were replacing your entire assembly, flywheel, disc & pressure plate along with the pilot bearing and the slave.

GM neutral bounces their motors and flywheel assemblies, unless you got the odd ball with weights in the flywheel you should be fine.

Personally, I would have used a better unit than the factory installed unit unless you like doing clutch jobs.

 

I know I am asking for help but I don't need to be treated like an idiot either! If you could afford a GM shop manual for the Corvette they show adjusting the pressure plate before putting it in. It was suggested to me, by this forum, to read as much as I can and ask questions. I read and asked. I don't need to be belittled. I am planning on putting in the LUK Z06 replacement assembly. I don't abuse my street cars and that is what the budget can tolerate. Unless someone can suggest a better (unit assembly) for less. For the rest of you guys who have been really helpful and don't feel the need for a superiority complex, I still open for suggestions or help.

 

OK, I need help again. I feel like an idiot but how do I know when the axles are out? I have the top ball joint completely out, the axle seems to slide easy (back and forth) with no metal scrapping sounds but the boot to the rear is still in place. How do I get it out--does it come out? My manual doesn't explain well enough at least not for me. On the reverse, when I go to put this back together what is the procedure? You would think this is my first time around a tool bench.

 

You need a long screwdriver to pop them out. You'll know they are out because they will pop out and then you can push them off to the side.

Just slide them back in once you got the cradle and differential back in.

 

I don't have any superiority complex, I was just trying to help you out, sorry you feel that way. I'll just let you go it on your own from now on.

 

I appreciate the help. This is hard for me. I have been working on cars and racing all of my life. I learned very early ('64 working on my '57) you don't hot rod the car you need for work. You also don't attempt things you can't afford. Here I am, almost 61, working in 18 degree weather, on my back in the garage and I am finding mechanical problems I have never seen before. If it were my race car--no problem--you just do it. With this Corvette I am afraid to do anything because everything is so expensive. You guys know. I didn't want to change a clutch, all I wanted to do was drive this thing. Well I am stuck now so I appreciate any information you can give.
Thanks

 

Tony (aig1915) is a great guy and helps a lot, he would probably crawl under the car with you if you were close enough.

Don’t be too intimidated by the Vette. The job is not too bad, there are some things to look out for but they are all documented in the write ups you’ve seen. Just go one step at a time and re-read the instructions at each step. And relax, sometimes it not easy to communicate but people here can answer your questions. I’m going through the same thing right now, in the cold and on my back trying to mess with the clutch, no fun. But at least my trans is done at the shop and I can pick it up today

The axel half shafts just need a strong tug to get them out of the diff and the same sliding back in. Had not seen the boot stick to the diff, but I’m pretty new to this and think that Tony would be correct in using a screw driver to pop it out. I'd just be careful not to damage the boot.

FYI, the manual does instruct you to adjust the clutch. But, compare it to the new clutch you got, it should be fully adjusted already. So, no need to worry. I did the same thing my first time, and was like WTF? Until I looked at the clutch and saw it was already done. The shop manual just has to cover everything, not just the normal case.

Good luck

 

Thanks, reassuring words help. The clutch is the least of my worries--at least I have changed many in my day--but my day was when you could take the 4 speed out and balance it on your chest. I know what to expect, when I get that far. It is dismantling the back half of the car that will be a million dollars if I make a mistake that bothers me. Thanks for the insight.

 

Dude stop you are pulling to many things apart, read my PM in repsponse to your pm.

I have pulled the whole thing out 5 times! Its not a tough thiing to do. I am 27yrs old and i can tell you i really dont get tired that easy but i still plan it out like if i was my dads age. I take it step by step with lots of patience.

I can tell you my old man is about your age and he works on his cars as a hobby with no complaints ( although sometimes he cant really see that well) I say if you dont have any major physical setbacks you can handle this tear down there are alot of people here including myself that can guide you though this and once your done your gonna be really happy. We can also give ya some tips on checking items like your torque tube bushings.

some basic items that you can go buy now is a tranny jack or atv/ motorcycle jack and torque wrench along with some air tools with a little compressor. i gave you my number and you can gimme a ring as long as its not 2 am (i am in miami).

all the best buddy

 

Thanks Matt.


Where do you live, maybe somebody here on the forum could help ya out. I know it sucks when you get older and have to deal with these problems.

You sound like you've had a wrenching experience so this job is do-able and I'm sure once you have done it, the next time will be a lot easier.

If you need any help drop me a PM with your phone number and I can call you with info on how to do it.

I'm lucky that I have a (4) post lift in my garage that makes things a little easier.

Just take your time and don't be in a rush, as that's when mistakes are made.

Tony

 

 

To all of you guys--THANK YOU. I know I can do the wrench work, I just don't want to screw anything up, because of ignorance of what is there. I have always been hyper and want it done "yesterday". I was trying to follow too many directions. I am going to toss the GM manual under my bench and listen to you guys who have done it before. I have the tools, it is just insecurity of not having done this before.
Thanks again